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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:47 PM   #12046
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Can you please publish these statics,
It's common sense.
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:50 PM   #12047
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It's common sense.
haha, I have never messed up a full metal gear servo, but of course it adds more stress. I was just laughing at your made up statistics. Heck, I know a guy that snapped the alum steering cranks in the B5. But his servo and metal servo horn were fine.....
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:56 PM   #12048
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Default Tlr servo horn

I also run the tlr servo form on my car with no issues.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:55 PM   #12049
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Let me start by saying sorry if this has been answered but i dont feel like searching through 800 pages. I want to run a setup like Hartsons where the battery brace is removed and i can run the esc and receiver in the center of the car. My question is how does the battery stay in place with no mounting bracket since the brace is removed? Is it just wedged between the esc and rear brace?
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:04 PM   #12050
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Let me start by saying sorry if this has been answered but i dont feel like searching through 800 pages. I want to run a setup like Hartsons where the battery brace is removed and i can run the esc and receiver in the center of the car. My question is how does the battery stay in place with no mounting bracket since the brace is removed? Is it just wedged between the esc and rear brace?
servo tape or a very strong velcro
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:20 PM   #12051
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If that's your experience and opinion I'm not going to debate it with you. You're certainly entitled and I respect that. But I can't say it's normal or common place either. I've seen very few, if any, issues with the stock AE horns.


fyi, I try to keep TLR parts OFF my AE rides............
I have had atleast 3 AE plastic horns strip out in the past year. All of which happened just during normal racing. I could see if I smoked a pipe and it stripped, but all three were happened doing clean laps. Just coming down the backside of a jump. One front wheel landing a little before the other. Next thing I know the teeth have skipped or stripped and I have no steering.

I agree with wildcat. Tlr aluminum horn is the way to go
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:42 PM   #12052
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Anyone sand diff rings when rebuilding theirs?

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Old 02-27-2015, 09:05 PM   #12053
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Anyone sand diff rings when rebuilding theirs?

I sand new ones and old ones. Some times new ones have crap on them. I rarely buy rings. I just use the ones in the kit and keep sanding them. It doesn't hurt to measure the thickness around the rings with a digital caliper or mic after a few sandings to ensure they're not getting non-uniform. I tend to keep a set of rings around just in case, and if I have to buy new balls, which is pretty rare, I get rings too just to be safe.

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Old 02-27-2015, 10:01 PM   #12054
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Yep. Sounds about the same here. I bought this car used 5 weeks ago. Just now had time to go through the car and find out the setup plus redo the diff. My B5-R still has the same diff from October '14 and feels good.

I use an old outdrive, 600 sandpaper, and do several figure 8's to get a crosshatch on the rings for traction.

I've never mic'd the rings but actually had that thought tonight.
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:04 PM   #12055
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I just finished the rebuild for racing tomorrow. And this thing feels butter smooth as I expected.hopefully some minor adjustments for track feel and it will be good to go for a long while.
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:25 PM   #12056
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR View Post
Let me start by saying sorry if this has been answered but i dont feel like searching through 800 pages. I want to run a setup like Hartsons where the battery brace is removed and i can run the esc and receiver in the center of the car. My question is how does the battery stay in place with no mounting bracket since the brace is removed? Is it just wedged between the esc and rear brace?
Shawn Sanders on FB in the "RC10B5 nation" has a sweet one I have been running. Has screws that jeep the battery from going side to side and I run mine up against the servo with a piece of foam wedged in there... so far, so good.

Here's an old pic when I first got it...

Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-20141203_125916.jpg
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:22 AM   #12057
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I always felt the AE servo horns splines were molded too tight. I always use in general an aluminum horn that fits nicely and just feel that if you need to pull off the horn and make adjustments it is easier during initial setup with your radio.
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Old 02-28-2015, 04:31 AM   #12058
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The B5M is generally not twitchy, in fact, its super stable. If your car is twitchy its 100% a set up issue. My only recommendation is go back to stock and go from there. The box set up is pretty good.

When I hear about all of these alternate set up types I honestly question how much faster, if it all, the changes make most guys. The best example was our dear friend Wild Cherry. He had a a host of changes that the "Team guys" were making every week and it was worth 0 tenths for him but his car felt better every week. I really think the best way to keep getting better is to practice and keep your car well maintained. I'm not a big believer in constantly changing things around. Once you have a decent set up I think you should just try to run some laps.

As some have mentioned, the factory manual does a pretty decent job of explaining what certain things do...I recommend if your asking a lot of questions that you look at the manual. Going on AEs website and copying Cav's latest set up is only going to work for you if you drive like he does....or as fast.

I agree with this....Been racing since 96, esp big in nitro touring sedan. One thing I have learned over the years is build a neutral set-up...concentrate on tires and then shock springs, and learn to drive your car under any conditions......I can't tell you how many times I would nap in between heats while others were tearing apart cars, changing this, changing that.....Never made any sense to me. Track conditions change by the hour sometimes so whats the sense of constantly changing set-ups.....
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Old 02-28-2015, 05:42 AM   #12059
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Yep. Sounds about the same here. I bought this car used 5 weeks ago. Just now had time to go through the car and find out the setup plus redo the diff. My B5-R still has the same diff from October '14 and feels good.

I use an old outdrive, 600 sandpaper, and do several figure 8's to get a crosshatch on the rings for traction.

I've never mic'd the rings but actually had that thought tonight.
I got a 4x4 piece of marble. It has a really flat surface and place the paper on it. Use motor spray to lube the paper. Makes it nice and flat. No need to but the expensive aftermarket rings that are way overpriced.
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:50 AM   #12060
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Anyone try the new FT +4mm aluminum arm mount? Is it worth the upgrade?
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