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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:40 AM   #12031
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Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
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That sounds a little extreme... Especially since the dirt tech inserts are some of the best. To verify if that is actually the case (rim hitting dirt) find someone with an iPhone 6 to take some slo-mo video of the car in that corner to verify your hypothesis.
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I hear what you are saying.. I will use a gopro to verify but with the amount of clay stuck to the outside of the rim after rolling I think it is a fair assessment
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There isn't a track in WI with enough traction to result in rolling the tire far enough for the rim to hit the track. Especially with a Handlebar. Bust out your GoPro, I wanna see it.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:04 PM   #12032
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What in the heck are you hitting that would strip the plastic AE horn with the aluminum ring on it!?! My 5yr old can't even strip them
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they ....suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the .... out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-27-2015 at 01:21 PM. Reason: language
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:27 PM   #12033
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wow...

Never stripped one stock Associated servo horn in the past 12 years. I never need to take it off really either. I run the Ko RSX response servos and not one problem.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:53 PM   #12034
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The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they fing suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the shit out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.
If that's your experience and opinion I'm not going to debate it with you. You're certainly entitled and I respect that. But I can't say it's normal or common place either. I've seen very few, if any, issues with the stock AE horns.


fyi, I try to keep TLR parts OFF my AE rides............
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #12035
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The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out.
Only happens if you over tighten it when first threading it in. You are probably ruining the threads day one. I have never seen this happen in an absolute SEA of AE 1/10th buggies over the last 5 years. Heck, even my wife learned to drive in a B4, and could crash like nobodies business, and still never saw this. Heck, most novice crashers I have ever witnessed over the last countless years all started in B4s or SC10s... never seen this. Odds are even lower in a B5. B5 plastics, even the horns, are fantastic.

(and watch the language please)
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:30 PM   #12036
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or the drag link is bound up working the ballstud in and out..
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:39 PM   #12037
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many of the changes I have made in the last 10 months may not have effected my hot lap much, but it did make the car easier to drive and thus most consistent and I make less errors. And yes the kit setup is not bad. When the car is "twitchy", that normally means the wrong tires or the shock package is too soft and the car is pitching all over the place. IMO, the gulwings can give the car a feel of twitchyness. When I use gulwings, I normally go up in springs and oil in the front to calm it down. But yes, tritchy is normally a tuning/tire issue with the B5 series.
What I ment by twitchy is way to sensitive to my radios input but what you have said is very helpful thanks to all the help on this thread guys
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:18 PM   #12038
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I think XP is Futaba 25T.
Yes 25 tooth.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:20 PM   #12039
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I broke a servo horn on my rc10t2.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:30 PM   #12040
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Why?
The cars I have witnessed with them have been absolutely silent. I couldn't eat the 150 price, but for 79 shipped I could justify it. I also am severely under weight, so this should help add a little Back.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:42 PM   #12041
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I used the AE plastic horn and on the XP1015 it was always tight. On the Sanwa and Orion servo it was better. Never cared for the aluminum horn when I tried it, no reason just didn't like it. I might try the Losi next time but always have so many AE ones sitting around just stick it on.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:52 PM   #12042
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The cars I have witnessed with them have been absolutely silent. I couldn't eat the 150 price, but for 79 shipped I could justify it. I also am severely under weight, so this should help add a little Back.
Fair enough. I personally still won't spend $80 vs. $12 from AE just because it might be quieter. But that's me.

I won't spend $200+ to "test" Ti screws either. Maybe spend that trying different brands as I build new cars but not actually "testing" 3 different brands on ONE car. (I'm obviously tying the previous question about testing Ti screws into this post)
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:03 PM   #12043
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Fair enough. I personally still won't spend $80 vs. $12 from AE just because it might be quieter. But that's me.

I won't spend $200+ to "test" Ti screws either. Maybe spend that trying different brands as I build new cars but not actually "testing" 3 different brands on ONE car. (I'm obviously tying the previous question about testing Ti screws into this post)
I know what you're saying, it's all prespective.
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:37 PM   #12044
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Only happens if you over tighten it when first threading it in. You are probably ruining the threads day one. I have never seen this happen in an absolute SEA of AE 1/10th buggies over the last 5 years. Heck, even my wife learned to drive in a B4, and could crash like nobodies business, and still never saw this. Heck, most novice crashers I have ever witnessed over the last countless years all started in B4s or SC10s... never seen this. Odds are even lower in a B5. B5 plastics, even the horns, are fantastic.

(and watch the language please)
I think part of the issue is the tightness of the cups. I keep pinching and polishing, but i notice the servo link keeps tightening. So my guess is that it works the stud loose a little, then torques on it and strips it.
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:47 PM   #12045
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If that's your experience and opinion I'm not going to debate it with you. You're certainly entitled and I respect that. But I can't say it's normal or common place either. I've seen very few, if any, issues with the stock AE horns.


fyi, I try to keep TLR parts OFF my AE rides............
In my "opinion" the servo horn should just slip on, and not have to use force to press it on. Originally, I thought the issue was with my servo. maybe the splines with a tad out of tolerance. It was a cheapo brand anyway, so I replaced it the a hitec 8360 and the same issue. So I bought a protek 130ss, same issue with tight press on fitment. So then I bought an expert Lee martin signature servo.....same issues. Several different brands with the same fitment of AE horns. So I figured that was the way it was supposed to be. Then I stripped a horn and all I could find was an TLR22 plastic horn. And it slipped right on with no added pressure. And I was loving it until....the spline stripped out, lol. I guess the easier fitment has its own issues. The horn skipped a few teeth during a race. So a friend gave me a tlr22 alum horn and i have used it ever since. Easy fitment and durable. So that is the history behind my displeasure with the AE horn. I dont like the way it goes on, lol. Yes it functions fine, but i dont like it.
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