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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:12 PM   #12001
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You guys have been helpful
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:14 PM   #12002
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Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
Try clay tires.
lower front inner link
heavier front shock oil/spring.
try a different body..I traction roll a lot with the proline phantom. Finnisher is a good body
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:15 PM   #12003
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My radio is the old DX3 so not all the newer adjustments how can I make my B5M less twitchie steering and slow the speed of my steering down without changing my servo
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:22 PM   #12004
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My radio is the old DX3 so not all the newer adjustments how can I make my B5M less twitchie steering and slow the speed of my steering down without changing my servo
have you tried to play with ackerman or your shock package?
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:25 PM   #12005
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My radio is the old DX3 so not all the newer adjustments how can I make my B5M less twitchie steering and slow the speed of my steering down without changing my servo
You also have Expo you can tune with to slow down throttle, braking, and steering.
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:47 PM   #12006
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What is Ackerman
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:00 PM   #12007
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From the B5 manual:

Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are turned to steer the car. For minimal tire slip, it is standard for the inside wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. The B5 allows ackermann adjustments by changing the washer thickness used behind the steering rack ballstuds. The kit setup uses 2mm washers and is most common for racing conditions. If corner entry steering is too aggressive, try increasing the ackermann by removing shims from behind the steering rack ballstuds. Increasing the ackermann will increase the angle difference of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on corner entry.
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:24 PM   #12008
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Default Rear arm mount C

What's the difference between 3+2 and 3+1
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:46 PM   #12009
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All my 2.4/VTR's stay home in a box, half ran and coming unglued after trying everything in the book. Tried them all. No thanks!
I have not had issues with glue. But they are tearing on me. to be honest, I do not like gluing them. I thought they would be easier, but I no longer think that. They take more care than 2.2s. So I plan to switch back to 2.2s until at least the sidewalls are beefed up. On SS tires, the sidewalls never last me long at all. Longer on clay though.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:01 PM   #12010
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the first set was tricky but after that is was good to go. I have not had any issues with tearing, I mostly get the AKA premounts though. I am using some VTR electrons, 7th race no issues.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:05 PM   #12011
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Prolines 2.4 are way better than they used to be. My two sets of electrons last year at surf city lasted 2 runs each before the sidewall tore. It was a bummer, the tires were just getting good.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:36 PM   #12012
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The B5M is generally not twitchy, in fact, its super stable. If your car is twitchy its 100% a set up issue. My only recommendation is go back to stock and go from there. The box set up is pretty good.

When I hear about all of these alternate set up types I honestly question how much faster, if it all, the changes make most guys. The best example was our dear friend Wild Cherry. He had a a host of changes that the "Team guys" were making every week and it was worth 0 tenths for him but his car felt better every week. I really think the best way to keep getting better is to practice and keep your car well maintained. I'm not a big believer in constantly changing things around. Once you have a decent set up I think you should just try to run some laps.

As some have mentioned, the factory manual does a pretty decent job of explaining what certain things do...I recommend if your asking a lot of questions that you look at the manual. Going on AEs website and copying Cav's latest set up is only going to work for you if you drive like he does....or as fast.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:51 PM   #12013
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Yea I found the stock manual a great source for setup help.

RIP.. WC..RIP, lol
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:55 PM   #12014
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
The B5M is generally not twitchy, in fact, its super stable. If your car is twitchy its 100% a set up issue. My only recommendation is go back to stock and go from there. The box set up is pretty good.

When I hear about all of these alternate set up types I honestly question how much faster, if it all, the changes make most guys. The best example was our dear friend Wild Cherry. He had a a host of changes that the "Team guys" were making every week and it was worth 0 tenths for him but his car felt better every week. I really think the best way to keep getting better is to practice and keep your car well maintained. I'm not a big believer in constantly changing things around. Once you have a decent set up I think you should just try to run some laps.

As some have mentioned, the factory manual does a pretty decent job of explaining what certain things do...I recommend if your asking a lot of questions that you look at the manual. Going on AEs website and copying Cav's latest set up is only going to work for you if you drive like he does....or as fast.
many of the changes I have made in the last 10 months may not have effected my hot lap much, but it did make the car easier to drive and thus most consistent and I make less errors. And yes the kit setup is not bad. When the car is "twitchy", that normally means the wrong tires or the shock package is too soft and the car is pitching all over the place. IMO, the gulwings can give the car a feel of twitchyness. When I use gulwings, I normally go up in springs and oil in the front to calm it down. But yes, tritchy is normally a tuning/tire issue with the B5 series.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:00 PM   #12015
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Thanks to everyone for the different experiences with your bearings and inserts. The one thing I know for sure is that my bearings got crunchy after three trips to the track, running with the completely stock parts and no glue.

I think I'll go ahead and replace the crushers then glue the inserts in. Just don't want to ruin these nice ceramic bearings.
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