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Old 02-25-2015, 09:00 PM   #11971
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I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:06 PM   #11972
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I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
lol, I am about to get some Ti axles myself. and i plan to replace my crush tube. My crush tubes are originals from a year ago and I am told they were at some point updated. the are like $2, so why not. cheap compared to the rest of the car, lol
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:57 PM   #11973
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We have a place in Three Rivers....I bet you race at that little indoor in Exeter. I've been dying to try it out but since we're always there to get away my wife always gives me the stink eye when I even bring it up.
Yep, little 15 second lap, small venue, a little trash talk, good times. Sometimes I get down to Bakersfield for Rainman's and even less to your neck of the woods. Where do you race?
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Old 02-26-2015, 12:29 AM   #11974
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I got some Avid bearings for my B5M today. Before I do something stupid and ruin these things should I buy new crush washers for the front hubs? I'm running one piece titanium front axles and it looks like they may be machined so that they will prevent deforming the bearings when the screw is tightened. But I'm not completely sure.
You can get another crush tube if you like, no biggie since they are very cheap. However, the real problem is the inserts themselves. You must glue them in!! When you glue them have the bearings and axle ready to put in so that the glue dries with them all lined up.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:52 AM   #11975
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I really liked the 2.4's in mod, as they produce more grip overall to me. I really liked them on my rear motor car Outdoors. Indoors, with the mid motor, I like the 2.2's better For 17.5

(I'm also selling a large lot of 2.4's in the classifieds)
Are you selling all of your 2.4's and not planning on running them for mod? I am still beating this one up deciding on which tire / wheel I want to go with in my new buggy. From what I can tell, there was a few folks griping about the glue coming up, which to me sounds more like a glue / operator problem. If 2.4" is better overall (for mod) and is likely the direction all will be headed after ROAR approves them, why not jump on the bandwagon now? I am obviously not racing in any ROAR events, I just want to get the best and not yesterday's news.

I can see I am going to have to re-learn how to glue tires (the right and clean way). All of my 1/8 scale stuff has been pre-mounts.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:39 AM   #11976
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lol, I am about to get some Ti axles myself. and i plan to replace my crush tube. My crush tubes are originals from a year ago and I am told they were at some point updated. the are like $2, so why not. cheap compared to the rest of the car, lol
I bought my kit from the LHS in mid December but I'm not sure when it was actually manufactured. I guess I might as well replace the crush tubes when I install the bearings.

Just to be sure it's clear, I wasn't running the one piece axles when my bearings got crunchy. I noticed the bearings when I was installing the axles.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:57 AM   #11977
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You can get another crush tube if you like, no biggie since they are very cheap. However, the real problem is the inserts themselves. You must glue them in!! When you glue them have the bearings and axle ready to put in so that the glue dries with them all lined up.
Thanks. After doing a little searching in the thread, I think I'm gonna pick up the hard steering block and insert set then glue in the inserts. I was really happy with the handling of my car on our track Sunday so losing the ability to adjust shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:22 AM   #11978
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Thanks. After doing a little searching in the thread, I think I'm gonna pick up the hard steering block and insert set then glue in the inserts. I was really happy with the handling of my car on our track Sunday so losing the ability to adjust shouldn't be an issue.
It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:46 AM   #11979
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It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
I can echo this finding. I tried the same thing and my bearings got crunchy extremely fast. Perhaps even more telling is that when i broke one of the blocks and went back to my older blocks with the same bearings, the bearings felt better. When i say old, i mean old, you could see the inserts just moving around in the blocks.

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Old 02-26-2015, 09:00 AM   #11980
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These will help tremendously.

Made for this type of application.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=596
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:35 AM   #11981
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These will help tremendously.

Made for this type of application.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=596
Interesting!

I've used those TKO bearings for nitro clutch bells and they work great. Never realized the B5/B5M front axle bearings were the same size.

Good info, thanks!
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:43 AM   #11982
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Thank you.

Rears too. 5x13.

They are working great in the wheels and hubs.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:53 AM   #11983
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike View Post
Are you selling all of your 2.4's and not planning on running them for mod? I am still beating this one up deciding on which tire / wheel I want to go with in my new buggy. From what I can tell, there was a few folks griping about the glue coming up, which to me sounds more like a glue / operator problem. If 2.4" is better overall (for mod) and is likely the direction all will be headed after ROAR approves them, why not jump on the bandwagon now? I am obviously not racing in any ROAR events, I just want to get the best and not yesterday's news.

I can see I am going to have to re-learn how to glue tires (the right and clean way). All of my 1/8 scale stuff has been pre-mounts.

Thanks for your help!
IMO the 2.4's suck unless you are on high bite as they allow the car to rotate more and just generally have less traction. Also they rip off the wheel and the foams do not last IMO.

I have been running the 2.2 EVO conversion Chainlinks and they are sooooo much better than the 2.4's. I have ran them back to back and every time I do the 2.2's are so much better that its almost like a totally different tire.

Even most of the AKA drivers are running the EVO conversion on the Chainlinks and its not just because the 2.4's are not ROAR approved its bc they work better that way.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:04 AM   #11984
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IMO the 2.4's suck unless you are on high bite as they allow the car to rotate more and just generally have less traction. Also they rip off the wheel and the foams do not last IMO.

I have been running the 2.2 EVO conversion Chainlinks and they are sooooo much better than the 2.4's. I have ran them back to back and every time I do the 2.2's are so much better that its almost like a totally different tire.

Even most of the AKA drivers are running the EVO conversion on the Chainlinks and its not just because the 2.4's are not ROAR approved its bc they work better that way.
From my testing, I'll agree. Another AE teammate that I race with runs for PL and he had the same tearing issues and overall less grip. When I ran the JC stuff, (which was limited because it had noticeably less grip) I didn't like them at all. Our track is medium bite and not very smooth at all.

The forward grip was good, zero side bite!
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:06 AM   #11985
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It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
Thanks, that's good info.

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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
I can echo this finding. I tried the same thing and my bearings got crunchy extremely fast. Perhaps even more telling is that when i broke one of the blocks and went back to my older blocks with the same bearings, the bearings felt better. When i say old, i mean old, you could see the inserts just moving around in the blocks.

jB
Thank you.

So are you guys saying do, or do not, glue the inserts?
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