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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:49 AM   #11911
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http://www.bocabearings.com/productdetail.aspx?ItemID=24179&MODSYSID=10111&Pro ductSubGroupID=163

There you go, you stock guys love blowing tons of money on stuff. At least your bank account will be lighter.
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:59 AM   #11912
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So Ive been away from thread and I run on clay track similar to oc rc clay and I was curious did pretty much everyone settle on b5 front tower and arms? Also are you guys running 5m rear or b5 rear arms?
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:00 AM   #11913
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So Ive been away from thread and I run on clay track similar to oc rc clay and I was curious did pretty much everyone settle on b5 front tower and arms? Also are you guys running 5m rear or b5 rear arms?
I run RM arms front and rear on mine.
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:04 AM   #11914
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Quite a few guys at NorCal hobbbies have returned to the M front tower and arms. I like the was it feels better and i have not noticed any of the downside others have complained about.
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:30 AM   #11915
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What's your budget?

Since you didn't give one, I'll recommend my experience: Orion R10.1 pro and a Trinity Certified 1s 17.5 if you're racing 17.5
Certified 1s?
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:38 AM   #11916
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D4 SS 1s certified motor
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:06 AM   #11917
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The 1s part confused me. They verify them different for 1s vs 2s?
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:28 AM   #11918
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The 1s part confused me. They verify them different for 1s vs 2s?
Here is all the info you need on the motor he's talking about.
New Trinity Short Stack Motor legal for 17.5 buggy?
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:38 AM   #11919
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Where are the stock guys placing additional weight to get back to legal?
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:50 AM   #11920
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Where are the stock guys placing additional weight to get back to legal?
Pff, legal smeagal Locals are running 1450ish

Chassis protector adds weight down low, about 18 grams. Full sized servo. Hard Parts. Waterfall fans. Steel screws on the chassis.
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:57 AM   #11921
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So you free'd up the drive train with ceramic bearings, to max your car's speed... then added heat to the motor with more drag brake which will net you less voltage across your run, and more heat in the motor.

(just playin with ya... wont do much)
I run mod captain, 7.5. I have yet to see my car come off hotter that 128 after ten min runs. But yeah it felt a little bound up or tight and everything was free except bearings so i did the whole car ceramic lol
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:21 PM   #11922
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Anyone have kyosho shocks on their b5m? Could u feel any difference? My rb6 is a lot smoother than my b5m so I was wondering if the shocks would have anything to do with that....
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:24 PM   #11923
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Anyone have kyosho shocks on their b5m? Could u feel any difference? My rb6 is a lot smoother than my b5m so I was wondering if the shocks would have anything to do with that....
make the rb6 shocks the same length at the B5 shocks and try them. you already have them. you tell us.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:42 PM   #11924
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I will i didn't put them on my car until I got home from the track. Just have to wait till this weekend
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:54 PM   #11925
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Anyone else get back from Motorama? There were a ton of B5ms in my heats. I tried a lot of stuff, made the B in stock, had bad mains though. Pretty much the normal setup, I thought I would be using clay tires most of the race based on last year, but M4 electrons had the best balance of the tires I had. (clay felt good the first couple of practice heats, then got loose). Every year I have a list of things to try "next" year, lol, but since there is so little practice you have to choose wisely. I even ran my B5R for one round, and it was good but the sensor wire got wrapped around the dogbone and snapped while on a good run I went back to the M after that and took out some steering and went a little faster.
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