Originally Posted by bambambennett

I would try a closed cell foam in the rear especially. I run open cell in the front with success when I am looking for a lot of turn in, but have not had success getting the feel I like in the rear running open cell foams. It gives the squirmy not hooked up feel. It costs money before an adjustment, but I think any adjustment just won't get you there if the tire folds and snaps causing loss of traction. Once it starts in loose conditions, it just carries until you are required to correct and correct and correct making driving that much more difficult.

Originally Posted by Nemaris

I wanted to ask how many of you are using the clamping front hexes & axles? Also is anybody else experiencing a not so smooth gritty movement in the front axles? I tried the fix that was posted on b5 nation a while ago involving the traxxas spacers to no avail.

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13

any body have a bad shock shaft? One of my rears was missing the top part were the c clip goes on. Kind of weird. The build was super nice, this car goes together awesome. I just got this after a long break. Glad to be back.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

meh, practice smactress. go race at srs. I dont think the aka wheel is 2.2, it looks bigger than the old 2.2 wheels

Originally Posted by glueguy

Just finished building my B5 and it's the first buggy for me. How do you get to the front body clip. My fingers can't get down in between the shocks and upright. What's the technique?

Originally Posted by vito

happy 4 day b 5 guys
the shop has 12 g wire
my friend told me 14 g for a stock motor?

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

meh, practice smactress. go race at srs. I dont think the aka wheel is 2.2, it looks bigger than the old 2.2 wheels

Originally Posted by BIGSKI15

Tech notes from tower say the Evo wheel is 2.2.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...DWXB&P=ML#tech

Originally Posted by hcopp

Took mine out for its fifth run today. Its an indoor clay track with this one jump that is giving me hell. I am running a Tekin RS Gen 2 - Killshot 17.5 - 32/75 gearing and Gold Barcodes. I feel I just don't have much punch to get over this jump.

It is a small jump that lands on a tabletop which immediately has another jump at the end of the table. When I hit it perfectly I can clear the landing by maybe 3 inches. I will try to attach a picture of the current layout but it doesn't show the jump well.

I am running blink at the track as thats what I will eventually race with, but what would you guys recommend I try out to get a bit more punch? What gearing should I run? Timing on the motor appears to be at 20 degrees, which is how it was when I got it (don't know if this is normal or not).

Any ideas for the best setup? I also run at an indoor hard surface track, but run 21/79 (I Think) with tons of boost and that works really well for me.

Thanks for the reading the hodge podge of info, appreciate any input.

Originally Posted by hcopp

Took mine out for its fifth run today. Its an indoor clay track with this one jump that is giving me hell. I am running a Tekin RS Gen 2 - Killshot 17.5 - 32/75 gearing and Gold Barcodes. I feel I just don't have much punch to get over this jump.

It is a small jump that lands on a tabletop which immediately has another jump at the end of the table. When I hit it perfectly I can clear the landing by maybe 3 inches. I will try to attach a picture of the current layout but it doesn't show the jump well.

I am running blink at the track as thats what I will eventually race with, but what would you guys recommend I try out to get a bit more punch? What gearing should I run? Timing on the motor appears to be at 20 degrees, which is how it was when I got it (don't know if this is normal or not).

Any ideas for the best setup? I also run at an indoor hard surface track, but run 21/79 (I Think) with tons of boost and that works really well for me.

Thanks for the reading the hodge podge of info, appreciate any input.