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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:38 PM   #11056
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I was programming my ESC tonight and had the rear wheels off... Testing the throttle, I noticed the slightest little "bump" in the rear dog-bone on the right side... I am talking very small, but the other side is perfect.

My question is are the dog-bones perfectly straight or do they have a tolerance to be slightly out?

When the RPM increases it seems like the "bump" goes away, and there and no vibrations or anything like that.

What are the risks of running a slightly bent one... I dont think it is bent, that is how minor it is, but it is not perfect like the other side.

Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:43 PM   #11057
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sure give that one a shot. honestly, I am in the same boat as you. I have a d3.5, but cactus is coming up and I cant run it. I am seriously thinking about just getting a trackstar motor for cactus, lol. I have a reedy I want to try this weekend, but I know it is not as good as my d3.5.
Leigh,

You really need to give the Schuur Speed motors a try. Out here at OCRC , they are 9 out of 10 in the expert stock main. In our sportsman stock buggy class its another 15-20 out of 30 drivers as well. Its a great competitive ROAR legal motor.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:46 PM   #11058
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the funny thing is... I have never heard of the plastic ones breaking. Personally, I would never buy the alum cranks for this car. I have some on my car, because i bought it used, but i use the plastic ones on the car I built. 1 year on the plastic ones with no issues.
I did have one issue, ball stud pulled out had to shoo goo until I replaced with another plastic one.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:52 PM   #11059
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Question for you guys, how much play (if any) is acceptable in the top shaft - as far as in/out movement goes? My stock top shaft has a lot of play and I just replaced it with the MIP shaft. It's better than it was, but still has around .40 - .50mm of play in it. I don't remember my RM car having this issue. If shimming is required can someone recommend a set of shims? Thanks.
I had to shim both my b5 and b5m. m was so bad the rear slipper plate was rubbing. don't know what shims I used, just had some in the box. both using associated aluminum top shafts
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:57 PM   #11060
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So I assume you guys did a lot of stock testing and the 3 gear is the defacto stock upgrade.
I watched Sean C. from Associated test the new milled chassis for awhile and its been real good. He has tested the 3 gear transmission for a couple months and its super smooth and real tight tolerances. Sean has let the expert stock drivers try his buggy and test it and give feedback and its all been great news for the OCRC track.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:21 PM   #11061
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I'm do for a new kit anyways so perfect timing.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:25 PM   #11062
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Default Sorry I'm late with these...

http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/jconcep...ng-bellcranks/



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JConcepts has the steering system on the B5, B5M and T5M covered with an all new light-weight, aluminium steering bellcrank assembly. The servo saver-less aluminium steering system is CNC-machined and replaces the stock plastic bellcranks to provide a more rigid assembly for increased steering feel and response. Furthermore the fit of the new bell-cranks has been improved by the positioning of the bearings to help eliminate binding when assembled. The parts come in a blue or black anodised finish and sport machined chamfered silver edges and engraved JC logos. The steering bell-cranks also include two thin crush tubes which should be placed in between the bearings on the stock plastic or aftermarket aluminium steering rack.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:27 PM   #11063
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I was programming my ESC tonight and had the rear wheels off... Testing the throttle, I noticed the slightest little "bump" in the rear dog-bone on the right side... I am talking very small, but the other side is perfect.

My question is are the dog-bones perfectly straight or do they have a tolerance to be slightly out?

When the RPM increases it seems like the "bump" goes away, and there and no vibrations or anything like that.

What are the risks of running a slightly bent one... I dont think it is bent, that is how minor it is, but it is not perfect like the other side.

Thanks!
Replace it. Any wobble can wear other parts, such as hub bearings or wear the outdrive.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:27 PM   #11064
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The jc rack looks nice a definite buy for me
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:29 PM   #11065
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Front end is loose. When checking camber, it changes per drop so can not set camber accurately. I need a list of parts to replace to tighten things up. Thanks
Aluminum rack, ball studs tight, glue trail inserts (hard, also, make sure you install the bearings and axle with the inserts already in the steering block and then just run some glue along the seam without getting it into the bearing or you'll have alignment issues with the bearings), glue caster inserts (hard).
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:31 PM   #11066
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Default And of course, the big news today....

http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/team-as...tory-lite-kit/



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Team Associated introduce the B5M Factory Lite, a special version of the B5M that would optimise the platform to excel in classes requiring spec motors and for certain track conditions that allow the racer to take full advantage of the performance offered from reduced weight. Shedding over 75 grams of weight, the B5M Factory Lite includes a 3-gear transmission for lower rotational mass, a lightened hard-anodised aluminium chassis, titanium turnbuckles, and aluminium front axles.


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Features
– Lightweight, hard-anodised aluminium chassis with centralised mass and mid-motor position for improved handling on high-grip offroad tracks
– Chassis fits R.O.A.R.-approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using optional foam insert
– V2 12mm “Big Bore” threaded aluminium shocks with 3mm shafts and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
– Aluminium rear ball stud mount for added strength
– New 3-gear transmission for lower rotating mass and extra acceleration, with lightweight V2 aluminium top shaft included
– Heavy-duty rear axle for added strength
– Lightweight aluminium front axle/hex adapter and larger front wheel bearing for added durability
– Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit and titanium turnbuckles included
– Aluminium rear clamping hex with laser etching
– Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
– Rear hubs feature larger bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in
– Team Associated B5M clear body and wing included












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Old 01-29-2015, 10:34 PM   #11067
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Do you guys still want me to post stuff from REDRC on here? Not sure if you guys find it redundant or useful.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:40 PM   #11068
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its cool. Thanks for posting it.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:43 PM   #11069
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I like seeing the red RC updates. Sometimes I cannot check that site for weeks at a time. But I can usually log on here at least once or twice a day.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:47 PM   #11070
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Updated shock setting for new car., 1.6 flats all around but still sticking with 32.5 oil in all 4. Nice titanium and alum. parts. Maybe we will see a running change on front bearings and axle set-up, the screw holding axle is not great, AE or JC titanium clamping setup is better with no screw. I like the new picture for choosing spring perch .

Build a lite car and new thing will be putting gull wings and 4 gear tranny, LOL. Love the new stuff, keeps it interesting.
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