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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:26 AM   #10921
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Guess you need a new body for the 3 gear since you have to chop off the other side...

At our track we run a 13.5 class on Ozite carpet (high grip) with very small jumps. Thinking the 3 gear might be worth a shot. Any thoughts?
My thoughts, spend about 15 bucks and try it.

You NEED the the top shaft, tranny case, and gear cover. The stock motor plate can be used. You just need to mount it with button head screws vs. the counter sunk ones and shim the spur gear out a little bit. Motor plate should be out soon, if not already.

body...looks more uniform when you have both sides cut out

I run stock about 3 times a year, so I'm not in a big hurry to try it. Even though I have a dedicated B5m just for stock now
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:29 AM   #10922
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My thoughts, spend about 15 bucks and try it.

You NEED the the top shaft, tranny case, and gear cover. The stock motor plate can be used. You just need to mount it with button head screws vs. the counter sunk ones and shim the spur gear out a little bit. Motor plate should be out soon, if not already.

body...looks more uniform when you have both sides cut out

I run stock about 3 times a year, so I'm not in a big hurry to try it. Even though I have a dedicated B5m just for stock now
Button heads will probably hit the slipper plates unless you shim it out a bit. Most guys are just using a countersink bit on the other side and lightly removing material.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:30 AM   #10923
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Already order the missing motor mount to finish the 3 gear!! Just in case i Flip the original mm and counter sink it like some of you suggested. Thx
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:44 AM   #10924
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Button heads will probably hit the slipper plates unless you shim it out a bit. Most guys are just using a countersink bit on the other side and lightly removing material.
They, button heads, will. Which is why I said, in the post you quoted, to shim the spur out a little bit.

I personally don't like the idea of both sides of the screw holes being counter sunk, not enough material left for a solid mount. That's just me..I actually crash unlike the rest of RCTech
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:47 AM   #10925
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body...looks more uniform when you have both sides cut out
Good for keeping the motor cool...
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:48 AM   #10926
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will there a kit to trun the b5 m in to a truck?
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #10927
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will there a kit to trun the b5 m in to a truck?

http://www.amain.com/team-associated...ck-kit/p418045
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:51 AM   #10928
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They, button heads, will. Which is why I said, in the post you quoted, to shim the spur out a little bit.

I personally don't like the idea of both sides of the screw holes being counter sunk, not enough material left for a solid mount. That's just me..I actually crash unlike the rest of RCTech
hmm, selective reading I guess

I picked up a CF motor plate from Plan B racing. And no, not to save weight, but it is light. Yes, I am aware that CF does not dissipate heat like aluminum. No I didnt get it because it was pretty. I picked it up because it was available, it wont tweak, it was only $15 shipped and perhaps less flex to keep a better mesh.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:52 AM   #10929
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Hahaha
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:59 AM   #10930
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will there a kit to trun the b5 m in to a truck?
A conversion to turn a B5M into a T5M..there's a ZERO percent chance of that. If you want a T5M, buy the T5M. To buy the parts needed to convert wouldn't make much sense money wise.

Sell your B5M and buy a T5M if a ST is what you really want.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:01 AM   #10931
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I did per order a 5 t but I got a yeti xl kit now ill get one for my birth day in may
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:13 AM   #10932
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hmm, selective reading I guess

I picked up a CF motor plate from Plan B racing. And no, not to save weight, but it is light. Yes, I am aware that CF does not dissipate heat like aluminum. No I didnt get it because it was pretty. I picked it up because it was available, it wont tweak, it was only $15 shipped and perhaps less flex to keep a better mesh.
All good CrazyKitty I looked at the CF plates (went with the milled AE) when putting my car together for this last weekend but had worries about heat since the motor I ran wasn't mine (thanks Cpt.America) In the end heat wouldn't have been an issue. That custom Fantom mill took everything I threw at it and never temped over 140

On a side note. I'm glad I'm not stock racing very much, locally or otherwise. Because I found out first hand that the whole battery "juicing" game is no joke, legal or not it makes a difference.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:16 AM   #10933
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All good CrazyKitty I looked at the CF plates (went with the milled AE) when putting my car together for this last weekend but had worries about heat since the motor I ran wasn't mine (thanks Cpt.America) In the end heat wouldn't have been an issue. That custom Fantom mill took everything I threw at it and never temped over 140

On a side note. I'm glad I'm not stock racing very much, locally or otherwise. Because I found out first hand that the whole battery "juicing" game is no joke, legal or not it makes a difference.
yeah, that battery crap matters. Which fantom motor did you run?
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:17 AM   #10934
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I did per order a 5 t but I got a yeti xl kit now ill get one for my birth day in may
I would rather have the Yeti XL those look like they're a blast to play with!

And ST is dead by me...A 3rd class is too much work on a club night anyway, IMO.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:19 AM   #10935
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I would rather have the Yeti XL those look like they're a blast to play with!

And ST is dead by me...A 3rd class is too much work on a club night anyway, IMO.
I looking a a losi 1/8 buggy e kit the 8 .30 kit
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