Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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thanks wc I love this car
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
All that's needed for mod, or any racing really, is consistency. Hit your marks every lap, stay off the pipe, avoid traffic/have patience, and you'll always place well.
17.5 is great to start, but people tend to linger too long. Don't be afraid to motor up, and go after the "fast guys" in mod. On smaller tracks, and even some bigger ones, I've had my butt kicked my more consistent 17.5 drivers.
p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.
p.p.s. Even the "Pros" limit the throttle EPA.
17.5 is great to start, but people tend to linger too long. Don't be afraid to motor up, and go after the "fast guys" in mod. On smaller tracks, and even some bigger ones, I've had my butt kicked my more consistent 17.5 drivers.
p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.
p.p.s. Even the "Pros" limit the throttle EPA.
We can sometimes get a B main in Mod, but stock often has D mains. That is the main reason I consider Stock to be my main class. The close racing in stock makes for fun racing.
If we could get more people running mod for more mains I would def run mod. I don't care if i lose but honestly I don't want to get in the really good guys way if there is only one main
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
The really good guys will skate right by you. The most important thing you can do is run your race. Maybe give him the inside line though a turn, or make room on the straight. The absolute WORST thing you can do is come to a stop though, nobody expects that.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Sooo I did the MM conversion last night. I was missing 1x 3x8mm FHCS screw. I was about to head over to the LHS and get some, when I decided to searth through the B5 PDF manual for the part number....guess what there is 1x of these screws used on the B5RM car....to hold the rear body mount. Personally, I think the conversion should have come with all of the screws to mount the side pods, but whatever. There should AT LEAST be instruction saying to reuse that screw. I completely forgot about that little Sh&t. So its all good. Now where are the missing 3x10mm FHCS screws supposed to come from, lol. I was missing 2 of them and unsure where to steal them off the RM car.....I love AE and all, but they are releasing a ton of stuff without instructions. I really need to pickup some spare screws...I have tons of 4-40 stuff... hardly any 3mm stuff.
Just searched the RM car manual for 25202 (3x10mm FHCS) and it contains 5 of them. 2 for the top plate and 3 for the motor plate. I already used all of those in the conversion. So I guess I will need to pick some up to cover the 2 missing screws, lol. AE, I love you like a wife.
Just searched the RM car manual for 25202 (3x10mm FHCS) and it contains 5 of them. 2 for the top plate and 3 for the motor plate. I already used all of those in the conversion. So I guess I will need to pick some up to cover the 2 missing screws, lol. AE, I love you like a wife.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
So Im switching over from 4WD. Decided on the B5M as I primarily come from touring car/ 4wd buggy background, and the mid-motor cars seem to fit my driving style.
With that said, about to order the B5M, and Im wondering if there are any spares or option parts I should get out of the gate? Such as Aluminum hingepin braces/arm mounts? Thanks all!
With that said, about to order the B5M, and Im wondering if there are any spares or option parts I should get out of the gate? Such as Aluminum hingepin braces/arm mounts? Thanks all!
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I plan to get the Lunsford Turnbuckles, Alum suspension holders and alum rear camber block. The plastic suspension holders are fine, but the alum ones with inserts have more and easier tuning. The alum camber block and Turnbuckles are just a durability thing. A lot of guys are running the flat RM front arms and tower plus the RM rear arms for more forward sweep. This is a tuning option. you may not need it, but want for tuning.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
And don't forget, there is nothing wrong with running a 17.5 with a little boost or a little turbo for some more straight-away speed, in Mod. Heck, if you want a little more power, I would encourage going to a 13.5 before an 8.5! Work your way up as your skill increases.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Hi guys, just found this thread.lots of good info on here. I have been out of the sport for a looooong time and got the bug again.bought b5m and cant wait to try it...hopefully this week.heres some pic.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Question.....do I have the camber link mount on right?. Do the thick mounts go on top or bottom?I measured from the chassie to the top of the ball with the stock and aluminum mount the way it is now is as close to stock as possible.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
Is there an embargo against the clamping front hexes from AE??? WTF is the delay?
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
This Saturday I'm planning on going back to the M arms and tower. It just might be my style though.
I plan to get the Lunsford Turnbuckles, Alum suspension holders and alum rear camber block. The plastic suspension holders are fine, but the alum ones with inserts have more and easier tuning. The alum camber block and Turnbuckles are just a durability thing. A lot of guys are running the flat RM front arms and tower plus the RM rear arms for more forward sweep. This is a tuning option. you may not need it, but want for tuning.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Not yet jason. Still moving to gilbert on the weekends. I hope to start making saturdays in 2 weeks. So just Wednesdays for now.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I want to get some comparison's on setups. I think I have to do some more testing as I did the Maifield setup and I can't drive it. I originally had the Steve Hartman testing setup and it was good for me.
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Thick up is +2mm and down is -2mm over stock