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Old 01-28-2015, 10:23 PM   #10891
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Ok I'm kinda struggling with our current layout and need a ton more mid to exit corner steering. I have tried a few things and none of really clicked. What would you guys suggest I'm just curious?
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:27 PM   #10892
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Ok I'm kinda struggling with our current layout and need a ton more mid to exit corner steering. I have tried a few things and none of really clicked. What would you guys suggest I'm just curious?
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:46 PM   #10893
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Ok I'm kinda struggling with our current layout and need a ton more mid to exit corner steering. I have tried a few things and none of really clicked. What would you guys suggest I'm just curious?
What have you tried? Whats your current setup? Specifically front suspension and camber links, trail, spindle height..
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:55 PM   #10894
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What have you tried? Whats your current setup?
Front: 2 hole 1.6 32.5 wt white spring 2mms under b.s inside on c hub 4mms trail 25` kick up plate 5' insert hub ride height 24 outside mount on arm middle on tower.

Rear: 2 hole 1.6 30 wt white spring camber block low with 1mms under b.s aluminum hub inside back hole 2mms 3-2 toe antisquat inside mount on arm middle tower hubs middle 24ride height.

Tires are phenomenal so I know that's not it. It's got good grip just no mid to exit steering.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:56 PM   #10895
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Spindle height I'm using the gold offset bushings raised 1mm normally run 35 wt in the front but our current layout has a lot of tight 180
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:00 PM   #10896
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The first thing to try is to maybe go to 3/2 in the rear instead of 3/1... and take out a tiny bit of droop from the front end. This will help keep weight on the front tires under throttle, which will give you more steering mid to exit. A longer wheel base will also help.
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:04 PM   #10897
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The first thing to try is to maybe go to 3/2 in the rear instead of 3/1... and take out a tiny bit of droop from the front end. This will help keep weight on the front tires under throttle, which will give you more steering mid to exit. A longer wheel base will also help.
Did you mean 3/1 instead of 3/2?
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:15 PM   #10898
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The first thing to try is to maybe go to 3/2 in the rear instead of 3/1... and take out a tiny bit of droop from the front end. This will help keep weight on the front tires under throttle, which will give you more steering mid to exit. A longer wheel base will also help.
He said 3-2.



Skeeter, how tight is your diff? I would run it standard, and go to 1mm washer in the front. Have you tried moving the battery up to 2 thins in the rear?
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:31 PM   #10899
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Did you mean 3/1 instead of 3/2?
nope. ah i see.. i didn't notice you are already running 3/2. Apologies.
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:56 AM   #10900
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
Front: 2 hole 1.6 32.5 wt white spring 2mms under b.s inside on c hub 4mms trail 25` kick up plate 5' insert hub ride height 24 outside mount on arm middle on tower.

Rear: 2 hole 1.6 30 wt white spring camber block low with 1mms under b.s aluminum hub inside back hole 2mms 3-2 toe antisquat inside mount on arm middle tower hubs middle 24ride height.

Tires are phenomenal so I know that's not it. It's got good grip just no mid to exit steering.
3 on trailing axle for more steering with Ackerman adjustment would help.
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:54 AM   #10901
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Skeeter, your front end seems fine. Perhaps its time to free up the rear. Easiest things to try, move spring lower mount to outer hole. Add some height to outer link.
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Old 01-29-2015, 04:37 AM   #10902
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How about lowering ride height to 23.5 F, and 23 R?
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:10 AM   #10903
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Longer link and less droop in front.
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:54 AM   #10904
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Is there any reason to break in a brushless motor like you would a brushed motor?

Do any of you run the Novak impact in your b5m? Would that esc be competitive for stock class?
No break-in required.

I can't answer the ESC question. I have two GTB's then a Tekin RS(grrrr). I'm holding out long as I can to NOT buy a speed control that needs a computer to make adjustments. I want to be able to push a few buttons, hear a few beeps and blips, and be on my merry way. LOL.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:10 AM   #10905
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There are bunches of ESC's out there that don't require a computer to tune. Viper's all have a hand held programmer than you plug into a port in the switch. The programmer has all the options available for the ESC in it. There are other hand programmed ESC's out there too, some of them pretty reasonably priced.
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