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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:00 PM   #10621
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Wanting confirmation that the side that is supposed to be the same as the stock ball stud mount is actually the same. It looks like it is 1mm higher. Thanks
From here: http://www.exotekracing.com/b5m-allo...ud-mount-7075/

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Heavy duty alloy rear ballstud mount for the Associated B5M. Machined down to 6 grams to minimize weight but made with 7075 alloy to increase the strength over the stock piece.

2 sided design has the stock roll center height on 1 side and -2mm roll center on the other side for extra tuning options.

Laser extched and polished and anodized in your choice of factory blue or black.
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:10 PM   #10622
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Man, I'm still on the plastic one that came with my b5m conversion, and I ran that thing for months on an 1/8 scale outdoor track. Do people actually break the stock plastic one? I even dead sailored a few times due to wind outside.

Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.

Wayne
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:55 PM   #10623
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Finally painted myself a finnisher body.

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Old 01-19-2015, 11:01 PM   #10624
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Finally painted myself a finnisher body.

Nice...looks good
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:43 PM   #10625
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Nice...looks good
thanks! this is probably the best i've done for myself lol
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:51 AM   #10626
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Lower on the chassis the weight is, the better it is for the CG

How much weight did you add ?
About 15g
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Old 01-20-2015, 05:59 AM   #10627
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thanks! this is probably the best i've done for myself lol

That's awesome, I have always found that the hardest part to painting a lid is cutting the lines out. Looks like you have that mastered
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:13 AM   #10628
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Man, I'm still on the plastic one that came with my b5m conversion, and I ran that thing for months on an 1/8 scale outdoor track. Do people actually break the stock plastic one? I even dead sailored a few times due to wind outside.

Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.

Wayne
I converted my b5m into a t5m. I broke mine in a not very bad crash, but that was with truck tires and arms.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:43 AM   #10629
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I converted my b5m into a t5m. I broke mine in a not very bad crash, but that was with truck tires and arms.
What parts did you use to convert it over?
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:47 AM   #10630
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Man, I'm still on the plastic one that came with my b5m conversion, and I ran that thing for months on an 1/8 scale outdoor track. Do people actually break the stock plastic one? I even dead sailored a few times due to wind outside.

Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.

Wayne
The car I bought used came with screws that were too long through the tower, that caused the plastic to break pretty easily, other than that I haven't seen many failures.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:45 AM   #10631
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Has anyone had any problems with their steering binding from the steering bellcrank brace being too tight? (part #91391)
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:49 AM   #10632
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Has anyone had any problems with their steering binding from the steering bellcrank brace being too tight? (part #91391)
I back off the screws until it is free. your cant over tighten it, or it will bind.
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:21 AM   #10633
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Just wanted to point out that this is super important. The first batch of aluminum steering racks that went out did not include the crush washer and it resulted in a gritty feel in the steering rack. If you got one of the first batch just email AE and they'll send you a replacement.

And to be clear, you put that little washer in between the two bearings on the rack. It's just like the crush washer that goes between the bearings in the front steering blocks.
Anyone know the size of the crush tube washer that goes between the bearings?

Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:24 PM   #10634
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Could someone please help me out with mod motor choice for indoor carpet racing? This may sound odd but I would like to match the throttle feel of my B5M with my D413, running a Tekin 6.5, as much as possible.

I've got a Tekin RS in it so I can go down to a 8.5 turn but that seems like it would feel more powerful in the 2WD than the 6.5 in my 4WD. I'm thinking maybe a 9.5 or 10.5 and play with pinions and ESC settings to get them close.

Any thoughts or advice though?
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:38 PM   #10635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Man, I'm still on the plastic one that came with my b5m conversion, and I ran that thing for months on an 1/8 scale outdoor track. Do people actually break the stock plastic one? I even dead sailored a few times due to wind outside.

Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.

Wayne
Wrecked mine after about 15 races. It was a VERY cold Georgia outdoor 8th scale track and I had a disgusting landing trying to triple a double/single.

This was my temporary hack. I didn't have longer turnbuckles and didnt have enough threads in the cups. Only made it a few laps before the threads popped out unfortunately.



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