aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

That right there is the single biggest thing to get the rear car to steer on higher grip indoor tracks! Moving the motor forward balanced the car so much better!

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Wouldn't a smaller spur give me more top end? I was worried about losing torque. Or am I thinking about this wrong

HBRob

iTrader: (61)

Sorry, you are right - was late when I answered this. Heres the math - also may explain why you run a bit hot. Likely will only get worse with 33/66

33/66 2.000:1 - 5.2 FDR (tall gearing / lower # = more top end, less torque)
33/69 2.091:1 - 5.436 FDR


33/72 2.182:1 - 5.673 FDR


Associated recommends 31/69 for stock, which is FDR of 5.79

You could try 30/66 which is 5.72, or 31/66 which is 5.535 and adjust timing according to heat. May have a problem getting pinion close enough to mesh though.

Heres a good article on gear ratios that helped me get my head around it years ago - and again when i just had a brain fart.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ear_ratios.pdf

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Awsome. Thanks for the help. I'll run the 66 tomorrow and on tue when. Parts come in I'll snag a 72

rctinman

My track is outdoor medium grip I was running square fuzzies. The rear end would break loose when I hit the throttle exiting the turns took me a while to get used to it felt like a different car in the corners. I assume it acts more like a mm car with the motor forward.

NitroLuver

iTrader: (48)

I'm going to finally build my M this week but I am going to build it 17.5 first and see how it compares to my rm which is also 17.5, I will not be doing any of the tricks to lighten it I want to drive the car stock before I go extreme. Wish me Luck lol

HBRob

iTrader: (61)

Will be great toner your feedback for those of us that are considering both

NitroLuver

iTrader: (48)

will def let you guys know hopefully I can get out on wensday and race it

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Well kinda... Basically the further back the motor is the more it's sits on the rear end under throttle. It will also create a bigger pendulum effect when off power cornering. Thats good for 180's. Outdoors I moved back to the 81 spur purely because our outdoor tracks don't really get a groove at all. They are a double dee/flipouts kind of tracks. This allows me to be in the gas more and makes the car much easier to drive harder. I'm giving the 78 spur a try again, however I wouldn't move it all the way forward with a 75 though.

blingy

iTrader: (6)

mason, its the rear alum part that the inner camber link ball stud attaches to.
cherry, I have my speedo just in front of the battery like Hartson has his , I cant post pics, sorry

rctinman

My track does have 4 180s but the fastest guys are all mm. With the 81 spur I qualified 4th twice for the a main switched to 75 qualified 8th but I was pushed into the wall steering arm poped off so dnf. I think I just need more time with the 75 lap times are about the same but the car felt faster through the turns.

Wild Cherry

No big bout the image..

Were all going the other way , with ESC in the rear you get rid of the spaghetti look making for a lighter car.

when you pack all the weight towards the rear its just too much ,car can bottom easier slapping the ramp & then it tends to also jump nose high much easier.
Give our way a try because the car gains a great deal of stability in the corners , jumps & landing improve a great deal.This is in comparison to how your running the car now.

Notice how we are grinding the battery tray off the side pod, this helped restore traction from the weight being moved forward. Either way has about the same grip but with more weight foward you get all that stability & jumping improvements.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

If you felt comfortable with it is the main thing. As long as the track has good enough grip to support it... Keep trying the 75!

Wild Cherry

Wild Cherry