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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:53 PM   #10531
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/avid-b5...7mm-wheelnuts/



Avid have a new vented motor plate for the Team Associated B5 and T5 as well as pink 17mm Triad wheelnuts available. Starting with the motor plate, the part is made for the use with the B5 and B5M buggies as well as the new T5M truck and it helps to scrub weight while allowing hot air and dirt to get out of the gear cover. The 48 degree angled vents are placed to remove material above the motor, yet still maintain a rigid motor plate to keep gear mesh consistent. The part is fully CNC-machined from 6061-T6 aluminium and it comes black anodized with chamfered edges for that luxury look.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:26 PM   #10532
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
Cmon Leigh for 35-40 bucks you got to wait for somebody to tell you if it works. And C and D guys to boot! Try it... we piss away money like that for tires that don't work all the time. And if you don't like it keep it as a tuning option or sell it
lol, I hate pissing away money. We cant all be rich like you
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:31 PM   #10533
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With the 3 gear tranny, are people changing their gearing setup much. Put mine together and looking forward to running it tomorrow.
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:28 AM   #10534
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That's fine for thrust rings, but you should probably not go more than 800 on drive rings. The drive rings need traction on the balls—this is why we use black grease in the thrust (very slippery) and diff lube on the drive rings (actually not nearly as slick and allows for lube while maintaining grip on rings.)

Wayne
Fred from bfast said the best way to duplicate his rings is 800 grit with very light pressure to get them flat, then 2000 grit to create the finish. He is a master machinist with 30+ years experience, I trust his method.

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I spray everything with cleaner flip the rings and then buy new ones, ain't Nobody got time for all that lol there like a dollar
The sanding is to flatten and create the correct surface texture. A perfectly flat ring with a groove is the absolute best way to build a diff. A perfect diff is very important if you want the car to work really well. I guess it comes down to how much you care about being fast.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:07 AM   #10535
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Been a long time since I've sanded rings. Ceramic balls and done.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:17 AM   #10536
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I go b fast or those TKO with ceramic balls, and ceramic thrust, works great. just built a back up tranny with the TKOs on Amain, feels good.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:52 AM   #10537
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I just quick sand the stock AE piece(diff and trust rings) spray all the rings and balls clean. Build and break in(most important part)

After doing this my diffs last for the whole life of the outdrives!!! Sometimes I may rebuild once for a big race in between. That's running modified!!

Also, most people use their outdrives and driveshafts way too long. Once the outdrive develops a small decent groove and the driveshafts start getting flat, you're losing significant traction!
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:54 AM   #10538
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yeah gonna need to hardened some of that lol. I think on my b4 I went through 2 or 3 outdrives over nearly 10 years. - that's where the $11/yr racing budget comes in.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:55 AM   #10539
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With the 3 gear tranny, are people changing their gearing setup much. Put mine together and looking forward to running it tomorrow.
I wouldn't think it'd change much. I am going to play with it tomorrow when my two get here.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:21 AM   #10540
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I don't feel that ceramic balls feel the same as carbide balls. I've tried them many times and they just feel like they have less resistance once the diff breaks friction and starts working. I definitely prefer the carbide feel.

Wayne
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:02 AM   #10541
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I don't feel that ceramic balls feel the same as carbide balls. I've tried them many times and they just feel like they have less resistance once the diff breaks friction and starts working. I definitely prefer the carbide feel.

Wayne
+1 on this!

Ceramic is a waste of time and money. Carbide have a great feel and last plenty long enough!
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:19 AM   #10542
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+1 on this!

Ceramic is a waste of time and money. Carbide have a great feel and last plenty long enough!
Yeah, I rarely replace carbide balls. They generally last the life of the kit for me.

All you have to do is not run your diff too loose or let it get bad. When a diff gets bad and needs a rebuild, the balls ride in a groove in the ring that provides some significant grab, so when you adjust your diff it uses less spring tension to get the same feel on the bench, and eventually your diff gets in this state where it feels right on the bench but slips before your slipper and barks all the time and that spells the end of the balls.

Staying on top of a ball diff maintenance wise allows you to reuse the same internals for basically the entire life of the kit. I've only bought one set of diff balls in the last two years of racing, and zero rings, and I think those balls had a flat spot from the factory! LOL.

Wayne
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:47 AM   #10543
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I used to rebuild (tear apart, clean and regrease) my diff twice weekly with carbides. Once every other week now with ceramics. To each their own I suppose. What some prefer others do not.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:40 AM   #10544
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7+ years with ceramic balls in a dirt oval car. (also most bearings as well)
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:43 PM   #10545
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I bought a used CW Rocket with the ceramic balls in it. Sounded and felt like sand had been poured in it. Put carbide pack in, super smooth and quiet. I know nothing of the maintenance on the diff before i got it though. So my post is basically meaningless. Glad I could add to the topic. LOL
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