136LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-30-2014, 07:09 AM
05-30-2014, 07:11 AM
post your setup and track conditions. We can all sit here and bounce ideas at you and some might stick, some might not. It all depends on your conditions and we can give you better advice knowing this.
05-30-2014, 07:14 AM
Has anyone else raced the rear motor in 17.5, bought a mid, and not liked it in 17.5 as much? I have only 2 races on my mid motor so far and love the way it drives, it is just slow and less punchy. I am more familiar with the rear motor as I have way more races on it, and I am not giving up on the mid yet but part of me just wants to run mod with the mid, rear in 17.5
05-30-2014, 07:15 AM
I have the proteks. The trinity packs were a guy a pit with. And not every protek puffed, lol. I have a 2+ year old Amain ECO pack that is flat as a board. Danny from Amain explained the issues as being case size. Some of these new packs like the 4800mah shorties, have a lot of battery in the case and any swelling at all will puff the case. On my lower mah packs like the 4000mah, I never saw any puffing. So either batteries have gotten worse or like Danny said, puffing is going to increase as we stuff more and more mah into the same sized cases. I have mainly seen the and experienced the issues with packs over 4200 mah. Also, I live in Az and raced outdoors. Some days its over 110 degrees out, with little to no shade.
05-30-2014, 07:18 AM
I see many guys running linger links on both B5's. I have always ran the stand links and recently went to longer links and really liked it. I have also found that lowering the entire rear link makes the rear drive flatter.
05-30-2014, 07:21 AM
The battery thing is so funny. Subjective isn't the right word but maybe random? I have 3 SMC 4600 shortys and those are notorious for puffing. None of mine have ever so much as even slightly puffed, even under extreme use.
05-30-2014, 07:24 AM
Has anyone else raced the rear motor in 17.5, bought a mid, and not liked it in 17.5 as much? I have only 2 races on my mid motor so far and love the way it drives, it is just slow and less punchy. I am more familiar with the rear motor as I have way more races on it, and I am not giving up on the mid yet but part of me just wants to run mod with the mid, rear in 17.5
05-30-2014, 07:29 AM
I just ordered a fan and plan on trying it. I put my R1 Wurks motor in the mid which is known to be a hot motor, but it likes timing, and taking the timing out really slowed the feel of the car down compared to the rear motor car. My mid is about 31kg heavier too which doesn't sound like a lot but I can feel it in the way it drives. I didn't think the mid would have the cooling issues like it does. Putting some holes in the body, and having the rear of the motor exposed (kit body) would seem like enough.
05-30-2014, 07:29 AM
A LOT of it is how you store it. But, I was getting ready to order some of those, and a friend of mine on here, who I know takes pristine car of his stuff, said his packs arrived at his door puffed. This was in the spring, so not hot out. If you wanna talk about cheap cases, try the turnigy, lol. I tried to use aliigator clips as charge leads, because i have a mix of 4mm, 5mm and so one, and the clips cut through the case all the way to the terminal. Turnigy may have the cheapest cases on the market. SMC, protek, reedy and a few others appear to use the same cases. Venom is the only one with a really stout case. that thing is hard and thick....
05-30-2014, 07:30 AM
I just ordered a fan and plan on trying it. I put my R1 Wurks motor in the mid which is known to be a hot motor, but it likes timing, and taking the timing out really slowed the feel of the car down compared to the rear motor car. My mid is about 31kg heavier too which doesn't sound like a lot but I can feel it in the way it drives. I didn't think the mid would have the cooling issues like it does. Putting some holes in the body, and having the rear of the motor exposed (kit body) would seem like enough.
My big long post was eaten by rctech. Lighten the car up some, possibly cut a 1x1 inch hole in front of the motor to let air in and maybe get some cut gears. The alum topshaft, avid triad, pucks and cut gears, go a long way into giving you more power. I hate spending tons on the stock class, but my current track is very competitive, and unless you like the D main, you spend the cash or join mod. FYI, we had 39 entries for 17.5 last Wednesday night....Middle of the freaking week, lol.
05-30-2014, 07:41 AM
05-30-2014, 07:52 AM
05-30-2014, 08:05 AM
05-30-2014, 08:11 AM
I don't see it as a crush tube issue at all. My front bearings are smooth as can be in your hand but feel blown out and gritty when all assembled. Still feel crappy when you take the hex off and there's no load from the wheel nut. I still run em that way, the same ones hat came in my kit. It REALLY bothers me but doesn't bother my results lol...
Both of the other AE drivers in my area have the same issue. One isn't nearly as bad as mine. The one thing that tells me that it isn't a crush tube issue is that they feel gritty when there's no wheel installed or hex on there. I've seen a couple guys change to the 3* trailing inserts and it went away or it severely lessened.
That tells me it's in the plastic steering arm or the plastic inserts themselves.
Both of the other AE drivers in my area have the same issue. One isn't nearly as bad as mine. The one thing that tells me that it isn't a crush tube issue is that they feel gritty when there's no wheel installed or hex on there. I've seen a couple guys change to the 3* trailing inserts and it went away or it severely lessened.
That tells me it's in the plastic steering arm or the plastic inserts themselves.
05-30-2014, 08:20 AM
Kinda funny how some feel the crush tube for the axles are not problem with crunchy bearings .
Ae themselves already address the problem by improving the crush tubes.
Ae themselves already address the problem by improving the crush tubes.