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Old 01-11-2015, 11:03 PM   #10426
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I'm running that chassis and it's very nice. It takes off about 24 grams.
Do you run stock?
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:29 PM   #10427
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I run the SLRC chassis in stock and its awesome. It gives a little more flex and definitely lighter.
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:18 AM   #10428
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Does anyone know of a place that sells bulk diff balls?
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:42 AM   #10429
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Is there any chance that lowering the roll center in the front would affect my rear grip?

I went from 2.5mm to 1.5mm

I was having to feather throttle to keep it from coming around on a long sweeper
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:54 AM   #10430
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Does anyone know of a place that sells bulk diff balls?
I have a bearing company called motion industries that is in my town that sells the ones I use. They aren't as hard as the tungstens but at $6.00 for 150 balls I can deal with it.
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:47 AM   #10431
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Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken View Post
Is there any chance that lowering the roll center in the front would affect my rear grip?

I went from 2.5mm to 1.5mm

I was having to feather throttle to keep it from coming around on a long sweeper
Lowering the ballstud is raising the roll center and raising the ballstud is lowering the roll center.

To answer your question, yes! Everything is a balance with tuning. You can make your front end too aggressive and it'll take away rear grip essentially. You can also make the rear end hook up so good that it causes the front to under steer.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:11 AM   #10432
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Lowering the ballstud is raising the roll center and raising the ballstud is lowering the roll center.

To answer your question, yes! Everything is a balance with tuning. You can make your front end too aggressive and it'll take away rear grip essentially. You can also make the rear end hook up so good that it causes the front to under steer.
Ahhh... I see!

Thank you sir!
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:15 AM   #10433
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Is there something for sell in this item.
I though it is not aloud to sell anything here.
You can put any link here where you can buy something.
Thats what i been told.
Iam right or id it just me.
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I am not affiliated with SLRC at all. So I can post a picture and a link to where you can get a light weight chassis. I cannot try to sell or push my goods on here. But that is fine, since i have no goods to push, lol. I run the kit chassis.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:37 AM   #10434
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No news to report from this weekend. Car went wonky on me. It could be related to one or more of three things.. massive heartburn, the giant temperature swing (30 deg colder) or I think the front tires finally broke in because normally I'm looking for more steering and this past saturday was hook city. I'm pretty sure I whacked the pipe at every corner atleast once if not twice. So no straight comparison between rear 1.7s and 3x1.4 tapers. A few others ran personal bests though so kudos to me on watering the track.
To cope with my problems I moved the battery back and dropped the rear from gray to white springs. Then later on followed by a ranitidine (zantac), famotidine, probably more omeprazole (nexium), a few super tums and I might have slipped a few hail mary's in there for good measure.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:49 AM   #10435
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Lowering the ballstud is raising the roll center and raising the ballstud is lowering the roll center.

To answer your question, yes! Everything is a balance with tuning. You can make your front end too aggressive and it'll take away rear grip essentially. You can also make the rear end hook up so good that it causes the front to under steer.
This man is right on. The front roll center, springs, and oil are paramount to the entire mid motor car's attitude. You can only do so much with the rear of the car. The front end is so much in play on mid motor that the rear roll center is almost an afterthought, which is a very different world from rear motor.

I'll give you an example. My car was... a bit "tippy" on hard corners. Some folks were running white springs up front at our track to "get rid of twitch", but when I wanted to drive my car hard, it just collapsed in front. I went back to the gray springs and played with front roll center. Now my experience normally is that lowering the front roll center in the front gets rid of the twitch, but when I did that (2mm), it just became too aggressive at low speed. I raised the RC back up again (1mm) and tried playing with the rear roll center for a little more mid corner grip in the lower speed corners. I found that I wanted plastic + 2 in the rear, and it really made a decent improvement, but the front was still too lame when I really drove the car hard. I went up to 37.5 oil in the front and BAM that's the ticket. It was like the car level'd up, and it was all just making the front handle the speed I was throwing it in the corners with.

It was really quite eye opening. On an RM car, you can lighten up the front like crazy, but on mid motor, the front end makes or breaks you in comparison.

Wayne
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:18 AM   #10436
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
This man is right on. The front roll center, springs, and oil are paramount to the entire mid motor car's attitude. You can only do so much with the rear of the car. The front end is so much in play on mid motor that the rear roll center is almost an afterthought, which is a very different world from rear motor.

I'll give you an example. My car was... a bit "tippy" on hard corners. Some folks were running white springs up front at our track to "get rid of twitch", but when I wanted to drive my car hard, it just collapsed in front. I went back to the gray springs and played with front roll center. Now my experience normally is that lowering the front roll center in the front gets rid of the twitch, but when I did that (2mm), it just became too aggressive at low speed. I raised the RC back up again (1mm) and tried playing with the rear roll center for a little more mid corner grip in the lower speed corners. I found that I wanted plastic + 2 in the rear, and it really made a decent improvement, but the front was still too lame when I really drove the car hard. I went up to 37.5 oil in the front and BAM that's the ticket. It was like the car level'd up, and it was all just making the front handle the speed I was throwing it in the corners with.

It was really quite eye opening. On an RM car, you can lighten up the front like crazy, but on mid motor, the front end makes or breaks you in comparison.

Wayne
yeah, I have noticed the same. I do a lot with the front shocks and roll centers when tuning the car. I barely touch the rear. I was fighting worn out rear foams. Now that I have new kicks on the car, I plan to go back up to grey fronts. White fronts seems a bit soft on high bite and the car was a little slow to square up. I personally dont like the 1.4 pistons though and run 1.6s front and rear.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:37 AM   #10437
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Yea I have to much under steer when I drive it hard which limits me, I'm running 3x1.4's front 2x1.6's rear and white springs all around and 35wt front and 30wt rear.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:45 AM   #10438
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Yea I have to much under steer when I drive it hard which limits me, I'm running 3x1.4's front 2x1.6's rear and white springs all around and 35wt front and 30wt rear.
What front arms?
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:45 AM   #10439
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
Personally as mostly a 1/8th driver normally having to maintain 6+ gear diffs, using one is MUCH easier for me. I run high bite indoors (slicks only), so being able to perform maintenance and set the gear diff up exactly or as identically as I want is much easier for me. Ball diffs are more of a black art So really, it's also what you're comfortable with.

Maintenance wise, I think they're probably about the same, the gear probably being a little less, but I'm typically breaking down every couple of race days anyway.
Another perspective on the gear diff in the B5m:
I typically run on a relatively high bite clay track. I also have too many other hobbies and hate rebuilding ball diffs all the time. I spent a day trying different things with the gear diff and finally got it to where it doesn't feel much different from my ball diff. I ended up with 1000wt Hot Bodies fluid in it. It feels really light on the bench, as you would expect, but it works very well on the track. In testing on the track, I saw no statistically significant difference in laptimes which is what I was going for. The diff probably has 20-30 runs on it and its feel hasn't changed.

I admit, when I first tried it, it felt terrible and was a solid .8 slower each lap. The super light fluid made a world of difference. (All this testing was done with a 7.5 and a combination of saddle and shorty packs. I like the saddles better)
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:28 AM   #10440
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What front arms?
Flats in front rear hubs moved foward, my lap times are in the top 5 Amain but if I choose tires that are good I have no steering to I usually run new chains slightly broken in so I can drift around the corners, but I'd prefer to have more corner speed and get rid of the under steer, might try grey springs and go back to 1.6's in frontand lower my roll center front 1mm currently it is 2mm
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