137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-28-2014, 10:06 PM
Jason did you also include a motor washer under the ball stud ?
Good reason to recommend the alloy hub , their stronger..
Good reason to recommend the alloy hub , their stronger..
05-28-2014, 10:22 PM
Tech Apprentice
05-28-2014, 10:37 PM
i actually got 12mm ballstuds for on the ubrace to use a locnut on the bottom and moved the stock ubrace ballstud to the hub, extra security
05-28-2014, 11:10 PM
For me first shot is battery, going to move forward about 1-2 sm pads to deal with all the weight I took out of the back. Next will be 1 down on rear springs if that doesn't do it. Saving oils for last as I think I'm already a bit on the thin side
Several others running as light or even lighter than I am at ocrc, so also going to take a look around for comparison sake tomorrow.
Ah the fun of trying to tune a new car.
Several others running as light or even lighter than I am at ocrc, so also going to take a look around for comparison sake tomorrow.
Ah the fun of trying to tune a new car.
. Used the Cactus setup for the base, started by moving battery forward 1 small pad, helped front grip but lost the rear a bit. Next went down 1 spring in the rear, better but not quite there. Moved rear hubs forward, slightly better. Decided to try B5 rear arms flipped and hubs back to center to get the +2mm forward setting - money.
Im running light (~1530) and using the Hartson style inline setup. Running AKA ions, closed cell - worn/sauced.
OCRC was good grip tonight, and I shaved 1+ seconds off my fast lap vs. B4.2 on same track (granted, I wasnt ever very happy with how the car felt - so take this for what it is), So far, Im loving the B5M. The rest is all me and now its time to learn to control my trigger finger and learn to trust the car a bit more.
Last edited by HBRob; 05-28-2014 at 11:33 PM.
05-28-2014, 11:19 PM
HBRob I have the 1.6 and 1.7 tapered with the 32.5 weight oil all around, White and Green springs. I used that at JBRL at OCRC but now put the pucks in and top shaft, so about 35 grams lighter, thinking of going to 30 weight oil front and 27.5 rear, dropping spring rates by one setting front and back and tune from that point.
Next race is outdoor at CCR, never been but yesterday in Exeter car was bouncy, track had some rough bumps and getting ready for a rebuild but need to lighten up and absorb a little more.
Running stock class so helps to be close to 1500 grams.
Next race is outdoor at CCR, never been but yesterday in Exeter car was bouncy, track had some rough bumps and getting ready for a rebuild but need to lighten up and absorb a little more.
Running stock class so helps to be close to 1500 grams.
05-29-2014, 03:57 AM
Tech Adept
As for several others my ball cups are tight, and not freeing up after several weeks of running... did anyone try the SC10 4x4 cups, are they slightly bigger (although they should be nominally same right..)
05-29-2014, 06:13 AM
What are some set up changes I can make to reduce initial steering? ie : ballstud washers . thnx
05-29-2014, 06:29 AM
The turnbuckles wont thread into the SC10 4x4 ball cups, the truck turnbuckles have larger threads. You can pinch the cup with pliers when it is on the ball and it will help a little...you could also try polishing the ball studs a little.
05-29-2014, 06:34 AM
Corner speed is pretty generic. So I would suggest practice. What specifically are you wanting the car to do? Also, you could always try Humpty Helms RM setup. If you just want some place to completely start over.
05-29-2014, 06:37 AM
Down to 1530g with pucks, lightweight top shaft, slipper eliminator and aluminum screw kit. Guess the next step is to remove some plastic from the cradle and shorten the wires a little like on Cherry's car.
Also looking forward to trying the arms from the rear motor.
Also looking forward to trying the arms from the rear motor.
05-29-2014, 06:55 AM
BTW Matt, I saw BK running stock last night. He was running the RM car, but said he plans to run both at the same weight and compare. I am curious as to what he finds for w3. I have not seem BK at the track much recently, it was good to see him out.
05-29-2014, 06:57 AM
I was talking to a guy last night and he told me that the pucks too 20grams out of the rear of his car. I am by NO means a weight freek and I have all the power I can use. But....taking 20 grams out of the rear to mess with the weight bias sounds interesting.
05-29-2014, 07:15 AM
Tech Initiate
Just returned to rc racing after 20 years so I have a lot to learn a lot of good info on this site. I love my b5 staying rm for a while who has tried the gullwing front arms? And how did they perform?
05-29-2014, 07:41 AM
lol, I didnt all of that. Someone even suggested chap sticking the balls, so I did that. At this point I give up. The rear once seem to break in ok..mostly because they get the piss beat out of them and stretched, But the front end ones start out smooth, then seem to tighten back up. Its getting old cleaning and reworking these things. I am going to just put some tlr 22 cups and studs on the car. I like the idea behind the AE cups, but man they keep getting so tight, that they will hold the arm up with the shock and tire off.
BTW Matt, I saw BK running stock last night. He was running the RM car, but said he plans to run both at the same weight and compare. I am curious as to what he finds for w3. I have not seem BK at the track much recently, it was good to see him out.
BTW Matt, I saw BK running stock last night. He was running the RM car, but said he plans to run both at the same weight and compare. I am curious as to what he finds for w3. I have not seem BK at the track much recently, it was good to see him out.
Jason
05-29-2014, 07:58 AM