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Old 01-09-2015, 06:56 AM   #10336
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I have 3 kits, never bent one
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:03 AM   #10337
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Originally Posted by alex4r View Post
Has anyone had any problems out of the box with the rear axles? I recently finished my kit and was at the track last week breaking in the diff on the bench and I noticed the wheels seemed waaay out of balance. Figured I must have done a bad glue job but now that I'm home looking at it, BOTH of the axles are bent.
I have bent one but it was preceded with carnage!

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Old 01-09-2015, 07:13 AM   #10338
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
The bushing doesnt fit in the cap? Are they the 91450 caps?...or the 91303 caps? There is a V1 and V2 version.

91450:http://www.amain.com/team-associated...ap-set/p275224
91303: http://www.amain.com/team-associated...-cap-2/p239772
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caps are 91450?
and stand offs 91446?

Thats a good question guys, I am not sure, I bought them from out LHS just assuming there was only one version and even if there were two, he only carries new stock, its a relatively new store but he may have ordered old ones. So since it would seem I have the wrong caps, is it horrible that they have a little wiggle room, would suck to have wasted $60 (b5m and b44.3)
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:28 AM   #10339
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Thats a good question guys, I am not sure, I bought them from out LHS just assuming there was only one version and even if there were two, he only carries new stock, its a relatively new store but he may have ordered old ones. So since it would seem I have the wrong caps, is it horrible that they have a little wiggle room, would suck to have wasted $60 (b5m and b44.3)
I'm going to take this and be honest, It's frustrating that the B5M is metric. I picked up a SC10.2, and now can use all my old tools from 10 years ago which is cool, but seriously, having to have both sets is annoying.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:41 AM   #10340
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I'm going to take this and be honest, It's frustrating that the B5M is metric. I picked up a SC10.2, and now can use all my old tools from 10 years ago which is cool, but seriously, having to have both sets is annoying.
But using a 2mm to do 90% of the car is nice
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:50 AM   #10341
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Wayne, have you tried the 1.7s with 32.5 in the rear yet? landing a jump is so effortless in my experience.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:04 AM   #10342
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Wayne, have you tried the 1.7s with 32.5 in the rear yet? landing a jump is so effortless in my experience.
I've tried 1.7s in the rear, but I felt I needed 35wt, and then it wasn't my favorite. I think it depends on how you are landing jumps.

The 1.7s provide you with more static damping vs pack. They're good if you're on a completely blown out track and need as little pack as possible, or a really fast smooth track and you need to run thicker static damping for the corners without making the car pack up like a brick. Whenever I ran them on our track, I felt that they were good until I drove the car hard, and then they didn't handle the corners or harsh landings as well as I wanted.

my $0.02
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:12 AM   #10343
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since bushings are cheaper than buying new caps, which bushings fit these older style caps? these:
http://www.amain.com/team-associated...g-blue-4/p7969

or I also have the schelle standoffs which I took off because the shock caps I got didnt fit and thats why i bought the AE standoffs, so I guess i could replace the b5m bushings with the old schelle b4 bushings:
http://www.amain.com/schelle-racing-...hing-4/p300382
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:19 AM   #10344
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I've tried 1.7s in the rear, but I felt I needed 35wt, and then it wasn't my favorite. I think it depends on how you are landing jumps.

The 1.7s provide you with more static damping vs pack. They're good if you're on a completely blown out track and need as little pack as possible, or a really fast smooth track and you need to run thicker static damping for the corners without making the car pack up like a brick. Whenever I ran them on our track, I felt that they were good until I drove the car hard, and then they didn't handle the corners or harsh landings as well as I wanted.

my $0.02
cool beans. 1.7s just seemed more consistent/safe throughout the day here. switching to the 3x1.4 tapers saturday if its warm enough for me lol.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:53 AM   #10345
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Originally Posted by DJG24 View Post
When I run my 8.5 I use the same gearing but run 20degrees of timing. I usually run this on a mid size indoor track with tighter turns. If the track is more flowing or a little larger I run a 7.5 with 21 or 22 pinion and can timing around 20 as well.
Cool thanks for the input. I will give it a try. the current track is a pretty tight/technical track layout so I will try the 8.5 with the timing at 20 and see how it runs.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:55 AM   #10346
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I liked switching to 1.6 with 30wt in the rear. About the same static damping as 1.7 32.5wt, But has more pack.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:44 AM   #10347
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Can anyone explain how on Cav's Spektrum setup sheet he has listed that he is using both the C and D alum arm mounts (#91522 and #91524)?
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:47 AM   #10348
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Originally Posted by Cousinwilly View Post
Can anyone explain how on Cav's Spektrum setup sheet he has listed that he is using both the C and D alum arm mounts (#91522 and #91524)?
The "c" goes in the front and the "D" goes in the rear!(that's what she said)
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:19 PM   #10349
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Originally Posted by Cridd View Post
Anybody have a link for a tool to measure spring compression rate on our toy cars?
Yes. I use this one:
http://www.instron.us/wa/product/596...g-Systems.aspx
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Old 01-09-2015, 02:13 PM   #10350
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I'm going to take this and be honest, It's frustrating that the B5M is metric. I picked up a SC10.2, and now can use all my old tools from 10 years ago which is cool, but seriously, having to have both sets is annoying.
Then be annoyed at the SC, not the B5
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