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Old 01-06-2015, 09:40 AM   #10231
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Could someone explain to me what advantages and tuning options are accessible with the aluminum hubs?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:45 AM   #10232
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Could someone explain to me what advantages and tuning options are accessible with the aluminum hubs?
Well for one they are a lot more durable and the ballstuds wont back out as easily as the kit hubs,just make sure you use a dab of loctite. Also you get a lot finer roll center adjustments not to mention they just look cool lol.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:46 AM   #10233
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Could someone explain to me what advantages and tuning options are accessible with the aluminum hubs?
you can NOT do hub toe on them. Just vertical ball studs for finer roll center tuning.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #10234
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you can NOT do hub toe on them. Just vertical ball studs for finer roll center tuning.
Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:50 AM   #10235
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Is there a "stock" position on the aluminum hubs that is equal to the stock hubs?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:53 AM   #10236
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Is there a "stock" position on the aluminum hubs that is equal to the stock hubs?
I think the closest one if I remember correctly is the inside rear most hole. And yeah no hub toe.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:54 AM   #10237
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Is there a "stock" position on the aluminum hubs that is equal to the stock hubs?
Yes back inside (closest to the etching bc remember the etching faces the shocks so on the MM faces the back of the car) with 3mm of spacers would be equal to the stock in the up position.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:56 AM   #10238
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Yeah I wasn't positive on the height thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:09 AM   #10239
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Socket, everyone is different, and every track is different, thus I give out my setups freely because no 2 people are going to drive the same. It's exactly why I look at other setups/tracks to see what they are trying to accomplish instead of running that specific setup. If those arms work for you, awesome. I experienced the same issue Wildcat has. It seemed like it would screw the front end into the ground and yank the rear right around. The rear would dog track out as I applied power because the front end was still buried. I recovered most steering/consistency going to the outer link on the castor block. I still have my gullwings, just haven't gone back to them yet. Maybe they'll work for me in the future with the tires i'm now running.

I spent all of sunday with the battery forward in my car trying to improve my times/consistency because my rear end is so locked in (32.5wt, 1.7's, white springs, 1BB up with 1mm shim inside and 2B shock mount.. I think same or similar to what dbowen is running) I'm searching for more low to mid speed on power steering and consistency in that steering. I ended up at 2 thin foams in the rear, 2.5 total toe x 2 anti-squat, up to gray springs in the rear. I futzed with roll centers and ended back at .75mm up front and 1mm rear again. About the only thing left to do either total caster of 25 or go back to the gullwings. Or *argh* cut open my fronts and soften the insert as I'm trying to make my inserts last longer so there's some skunkworks r&d going on (just some old school knowledge I'm applying). I've been at the track nearly every day over the holidays working on a way for *me* to drive with a battery forward or near inline in an oem kit way just to prove to all the guys that they don't need to spend the 200 bucks on everything in the sun or cut up stuff to make their car faster. Just by changing oils, front arms, link locations, and roll centers I'm already up to 1s faster per lap than all the local stock fan boys and I'm weighing in at 1592 without the body on. i think it was 1610 or so with it on if i believe the scales.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:17 AM   #10240
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To me, it's way easier to adjust toe with the stock hubs than taking apart the entire rear end to swap the mount or pills out. If you have found away to swap the aluminium mount pills or the plastic kit mount out without looking like a monkey humpin a football - please, by all means let me know and i would consider the aluminum hubs.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:19 AM   #10241
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Mason,
I see what you are trying to do by keeping it "real". And yes driving and track time mater the most. But from my experience, some of the steering comes from less weight, but not super light. For instance, the light weight tranny stuff take about 50 grams out of the diff, which should free up the rear. I run my car at about 1550-1560 with the body on. I didnt go crazy on the weight, but I did do the tranny stuff. The light weight tranny stuff seemed to free up the rear, lower motor temps and the car spools up power better in 17.5. If you are running mod, then yeah you dont need all that. I think rivkin runs just over 1600 in mod, so about where you are.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:20 AM   #10242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
Socket, everyone is different, and every track is different, thus I give out my setups freely because no 2 people are going to drive the same. It's exactly why I look at other setups/tracks to see what they are trying to accomplish instead of running that specific setup. If those arms work for you, awesome. I experienced the same issue Wildcat has. It seemed like it would screw the front end into the ground and yank the rear right around. The rear would dog track out as I applied power because the front end was still buried. I recovered most steering/consistency going to the outer link on the castor block. I still have my gullwings, just haven't gone back to them yet. Maybe they'll work for me in the future with the tires i'm now running.

I spent all of sunday with the battery forward in my car trying to improve my times/consistency because my rear end is so locked in (32.5wt, 1.7's, white springs, 1BB up with 1mm shim inside and 2B shock mount.. I think same or similar to what dbowen is running) I'm searching for more low to mid speed on power steering and consistency in that steering. I ended up at 2 thin foams in the rear, 2.5 total toe x 2 anti-squat, up to gray springs in the rear. I futzed with roll centers and ended back at .75mm up front and 1mm rear again. About the only thing left to do either total caster of 25 or go back to the gullwings. Or *argh* cut open my fronts and soften the insert as I'm trying to make my inserts last longer so there's some skunkworks r&d going on (just some old school knowledge I'm applying). I've been at the track nearly every day over the holidays working on a way for *me* to drive with a battery forward or near inline in an oem kit way just to prove to all the guys that they don't need to spend the 200 bucks on everything in the sun or cut up stuff to make their car faster. Just by changing oils, front arms, link locations, and roll centers I'm already up to 1s faster per lap than all the local stock fan boys and I'm weighing in at 1592 without the body on. i think it was 1610 or so with it on if i believe the scales.
Yes you're exactly right everyone likes different things and ya that setup is money! It's basically Cavs Spektrum setup in the rear (I dont run the long link in the front) and have you tried 2x1.6s or 3x1.4s in the rear rather than the 1.7s and 3x1.4s in the front? Also I never struggle with steering (whether on or off power) that is of course as along as I have the right tires and I usually run Proline Transistors or AKA Pinstripes up front chainlinks rear both clay compound.

So I know this is prob a stupid question bc you've prob done it but have you tried a diff combo of tires front and rear? I've found that I like the chainlinks the best out of the Electron and dirt webs bc they have JUST ENOUGH side bite to where my car is free enough to drift around corners, hang on, and still have TONS of steering even with a tire like the Transistor which is very smooth and not aggressive.

So if you haven't already try the chainlink with like a pinstripe, bar code, or transistor front
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:25 AM   #10243
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Mason,
I see what you are trying to do by keeping it "real". And yes driving and track time mater the most. But from my experience, some of the steering comes from less weight, but not super light. For instance, the light weight tranny stuff take about 50 grams out of the diff, which should free up the rear. I run my car at about 1550-1560 with the body on. I didnt go crazy on the weight, but I did do the tranny stuff. The light weight tranny stuff seemed to free up the rear, lower motor temps and the car spools up power better in 17.5. If you are running mod, then yeah you dont need all that. I think rivkin runs just over 1600 in mod, so about where you are.
I have an mip topshaft on hand but have yet to put it in. Since I normally run mod I have no desire to mess with the pressure sensitive areas but will consider ceramic bearings in the future. The other lightening items I would consider are some aluminum screws in areas where items are keyed together by design. titanium in these areas is just pissing money.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:33 AM   #10244
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I have an mip topshaft on hand but have yet to put it in. Since I normally run mod I have no desire to mess with the pressure sensitive areas but will consider ceramic bearings in the future. The other lightening items I would consider are some aluminum screws in areas where items are keyed together by design. titanium in these areas is just pissing money.
I have tried the alum screws.....They are jump IMO. There is only a couple places I would use them. To hold on the cradle and to hold the servo in. That is probably about it. I use Ti for the towers (because of the misters) and steel everywhere that I often remove screws. Alum screws do not like to be taken out a lot. Maybe if you tapped the holes, they would be better. The threads wear and the screws start working their way out. That was happening on the screws that hold the tranny to the waterfall and rear tower.


Since you are running mod, no real need for all of the light stuff. I do like the aftermarket bearings, alum top shaft and Avid slipper though. The slipper just has a better tuning window IMO. The topshaft and bearings seem to really make the tranny smoother. I assume because the topshaft is machined, is the main reason it makes it smoother. You can probably degrease the kit bearing and oil them for performance, but the kit bearings are just not very good. IMO the Avid steel shielded bearing $1 bearing in the tranny is all you need for mod.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #10245
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Hey WILDCAT, do you go through many of the slipper pads on the avid setup? I know u usually run 17.5 but just curious. I'm on my second set of schelle pads in 3 months. I run mod and my lt is pretty high grip.
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