Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
No going down to 1mm on the tower will give you more steering. Also I would go inside on the rear arm, 0-1mm on the rear inner camber block and I would try the B hub tower B hole in the rear (1 step longer link). Try those first and see what it feels like. Oh ya and get the b5 rear motor rear arms spaced in the middle.
That is what I run with AKA chainlinks in the rear and my car almost always feels amazing!
That is what I run with AKA chainlinks in the rear and my car almost always feels amazing!
Thanks again fellas!
By "Edge through the infield" I am guessing you need front end steering. The info dbowen has given you will tighten up the rear end. Looking at your setup sheet I think you can gain a lot with a few simple changes. Ditch the gullwing front arms and tower for the flat arms and flat tower. This will make the operating window of the front end much easier to manage. Second switch to the 25 deg kick up. This will allow some more weight transfer to the front. After that try out the 3 mm trailing. This will speed up overall steering response. If the car/tires are not struggling to maintain traction then I would look at raising the roll center to speed up response.
This last weekend, I switched pistons up front, going from 2x1.7 to 3x1.4 flat, and didnt notice a whole lot of difference... Im running on a clay mix track that is super smooth with only two jumps, and am finally coming around to quicker times.. However, Im just not getting that "edge" while driving through the infield. I think this may have some to do with the camber gain and link positions. I am looking for the simple fixes that I can do with keeping as close to box stock as possible.. Or even just using option tuning parts that are included with the box setup.
Thanks
Thanks
By "Edge through the infield" I am guessing you need front end steering. The info dbowen has given you will tighten up the rear end. Looking at your setup sheet I think you can gain a lot with a few simple changes. Ditch the gullwing front arms and tower for the flat arms and flat tower. This will make the operating window of the front end much easier to manage. Second switch to the 25 deg kick up. This will allow some more weight transfer to the front. After that try out the 3 mm trailing. This will speed up overall steering response. If the car/tires are not struggling to maintain traction then I would look at raising the roll center to speed up response.
This was on a med/high bite in door track.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Also, for more steering, I have been playing with 2.5-2 toe/squat and using the RM .5 hub inserts (the toe the hub out .5mm). I just got the alum suspension holders, so I will try 2.5x1 with the RM .5mm hub inserts.
The flat arms definitely take away initial turn in. But they make the car smoother through the entire turn. My main issue with the gulwings, was that the car would turn in hard and the front end would dump over. Then, the rear would kinda jack knife. I went RM arms for a more linear feel. Removing ackerman washers, also seems to really make the car turn in harder, but it also induces that "jacking" feeling of the gulwings for me.
Also, for more steering, I have been playing with 2.5-2 toe/squat and using the RM .5 hub inserts (the toe the hub out .5mm). I just got the alum suspension holders, so I will try 2.5x1 with the RM .5mm hub inserts.
Also, for more steering, I have been playing with 2.5-2 toe/squat and using the RM .5 hub inserts (the toe the hub out .5mm). I just got the alum suspension holders, so I will try 2.5x1 with the RM .5mm hub inserts.
I hadn't had that issue at all with the gullwings. I was however lacking initial turn in, and also on power steering at warehouse 3. The change to the gullwings gave me more turn in, and more on power, while also making the car roll more through the corner.
By "Edge through the infield" I am guessing you need front end steering. The info dbowen has given you will tighten up the rear end. Looking at your setup sheet I think you can gain a lot with a few simple changes. Ditch the gullwing front arms and tower for the flat arms and flat tower. This will make the operating window of the front end much easier to manage. Second switch to the 25 deg kick up. This will allow some more weight transfer to the front. After that try out the 3 mm trailing. This will speed up overall steering response. If the car/tires are not struggling to maintain traction then I would look at raising the roll center to speed up response.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Also, warehouse 3 is weird. lol. That place is super tire dependent. I always leave there frustrated. The one week I borrowed someone's tires, was the only time I enjoyed myself.
I honestly dont recall the on power steering when I tried the gulwings. And the dumping seemed more pronounced in the sharper turns. The current W3 layout is super flowing. The MM arms are good to have in the box for tuning and are a tuning option. I throw them back on every once in a while to play with. At the end of the day, not everyone has the same driving style and wants the same things from the car. That is why having all of these tuning options on the car are great.
Also, warehouse 3 is weird. lol. That place is super tire dependent. I always leave there frustrated. The one week I borrowed someone's tires, was the only time I enjoyed myself.
Also, warehouse 3 is weird. lol. That place is super tire dependent. I always leave there frustrated. The one week I borrowed someone's tires, was the only time I enjoyed myself.
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
By "Edge through the infield" I am guessing you need front end steering. The info dbowen has given you will tighten up the rear end. Looking at your setup sheet I think you can gain a lot with a few simple changes. Ditch the gullwing front arms and tower for the flat arms and flat tower. This will make the operating window of the front end much easier to manage. Second switch to the 25 deg kick up. This will allow some more weight transfer to the front. After that try out the 3 mm trailing. This will speed up overall steering response. If the car/tires are not struggling to maintain traction then I would look at raising the roll center to speed up response.
However, I am becoming more confused by hearing two different things about lowering and raising roll center. Since I have 2mm in there right now, if I went to 1mm, would this give me more on power steering? Or more off power? And vice versa?
The flat arms definitely take away initial turn in. But they make the car smoother through the entire turn. My main issue with the gulwings, was that the car would turn in hard and the front end would dump over. Then, the rear would kinda jack knife. I went RM arms for a more linear feel. Removing ackerman washers, also seems to really make the car turn in harder, but it also induces that "jacking" feeling of the gulwings for me.
Also, for more steering, I have been playing with 2.5-2 toe/squat and using the RM .5 hub inserts (the toe the hub out .5mm). I just got the alum suspension holders, so I will try 2.5x1 with the RM .5mm hub inserts.
Also, for more steering, I have been playing with 2.5-2 toe/squat and using the RM .5 hub inserts (the toe the hub out .5mm). I just got the alum suspension holders, so I will try 2.5x1 with the RM .5mm hub inserts.
Thanks again fellas
I think the track has been kept on the moister (is that a word?!) side, which has made it much more consistent than months before now. A buddy did my set of tires for me, and they've been perfect, from practice to mains both times I've been to W3.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I will definately be trying these suggestions. Thanks!
However, I am becoming more confused by hearing two different things about lowering and raising roll center. Since I have 2mm in there right now, if I went to 1mm, would this give me more on power steering? Or more off power? And vice versa?
Granted, everyone's driving style may be different, and I think that my style would be more of a Cav type.. If that helps in advice giving..
With adding more anti-squat, what (if any) were other areas that you noticed to suffer due to more anti-squat?
Thanks again fellas
However, I am becoming more confused by hearing two different things about lowering and raising roll center. Since I have 2mm in there right now, if I went to 1mm, would this give me more on power steering? Or more off power? And vice versa?
Granted, everyone's driving style may be different, and I think that my style would be more of a Cav type.. If that helps in advice giving..
With adding more anti-squat, what (if any) were other areas that you noticed to suffer due to more anti-squat?
Thanks again fellas
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
Could someone explain to me what advantages and tuning options are accessible with the aluminum hubs?
Well for one they are a lot more durable and the ballstuds wont back out as easily as the kit hubs,just make sure you use a dab of loctite. Also you get a lot finer roll center adjustments not to mention they just look cool lol.