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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:55 AM   #10036
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Originally Posted by dbowen View Post
Since you don't have the RM rear arms you can push your rear hubs all the way forward, put your shock all the way in on the rear shock tower, go to 0 ballstud washers on the rear inner camber link, go to the 2 hole insert in the rear hubs all the way out (long link) (I did this the other day and my car was almost to locked in), softer oil and spring in the rear, larger hole or more holes in piston.

Those are a few things you can do to get more grip.

I run on a medium bite track usually and I run stock and my setup is basically exactly like what I just gave you but I run 3x1.4s all the way around 32.5 in the front 30w in the rear white springs front and green rear and I have the RM rear arms and my car is pretty much always locked in.
thanks for the reply, i have removed the ballstud washers, i will move the hubs and change the shock angle first, then i will try the hubs with long link, then try oil/piston dont want to try to much at once so i know what each does. thanks again for the reply
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:03 AM   #10037
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thanks for the reply, i have removed the ballstud washers, i will move the hubs and change the shock angle first, then i will try the hubs with long link, then try oil/piston dont want to try to much at once so i know what each does. thanks again for the reply
Ya deff its good to see what each one does, try the ball stud washers first, then move the shock in, and then try the next longer link. Then if you still need more grip try the 3x1.4s all the way around, I love them bc they handle bumps really well and we have 3 step downs like the reedy race that I can just fly through compared to everyone else, but if the track is smooth and has a decent amount of grip Ill go to the 2x1.6 in the rear but I always run the 3x1.4s up front.

Also make sure you use the same tires after every change you make or you wont be able to tell whether it was the change that made your car better or worse or the tires (I know it sounds like common sense but Ive done it before).

Hope this helps!
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:17 AM   #10038
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http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...SetupHints.htm

this has helped me out quite a bit.

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need a little more rear grip, new to offroad but not racing, running kit setup on tight indoor clay track. Tires of choice are super softs or m4 compound, have tried different compounds and inserts but the rear of the car is a bit to free to really push the car. I have managed to tq and win the last 2 races out of the3 i have entered. i removed the ft 2mm spacers under the ball studs looking for more grip. What would be the next step? short rear links? springs? oil? car is not bad but i have to be really smooth or the rear wants to step out, this is in stock buggy.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:57 PM   #10039
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http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...SetupHints.htm

this has helped me out quite a bit.
thanks for the link
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:59 PM   #10040
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Posted this in another thread but thought I would get other opinions here too.

I did a stupid and had the charging harness (bullets from the battery to a deans, then deans to bullets to the charger) all plugged together and then into the battery and failed to realize what I had done, so the bullet ends to the charger briefly (like 1-2 seconds if that) touched each other... I realize that could create a short in the battery, but for that little amount of time did I do any damage?

The pack charged fine @ 5A with like .024 v cell difference.

Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:54 PM   #10041
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Posted this in another thread but thought I would get other opinions here too.

I did a stupid and had the charging harness (bullets from the battery to a deans, then deans to bullets to the charger) all plugged together and then into the battery and failed to realize what I had done, so the bullet ends to the charger briefly (like 1-2 seconds if that) touched each other... I realize that could create a short in the battery, but for that little amount of time did I do any damage?

The pack charged fine @ 5A with like .024 v cell difference.

Thanks!
As someone who almost burned their house down once already, my general rule is, if the charger is willing to balance charge it and its not puffed. Good to go. If it won't balance charge it, at least pop it open and have a look. Probably not a good idea to charge it on a wooden bench!
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:55 PM   #10042
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Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.

On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:50 AM   #10043
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Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.

On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
The link above from petitrc is an excellent read on setup and mentions what to do with sweepers.
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:41 AM   #10044
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner View Post
Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.

On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
I would imagine you are lifting the inside rear wheel which then unloads and spins, that one of the places where a ball diff is better.
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:14 PM   #10045
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Here's a medium-high bite stock setup for you indoor guys to try. It's all stock oem kit pieces with the addition of the aluminum C & D for the extra tunability. Normally I try not to run stock but some days you gotta measure up the young'ns. This setup netted me an 18.3 this past weekend which I believe is about the fastest single lap on our current layout but also probably best overall average as well. I'm still playing with the front end to improve consistency but I figured somebody might benefit from it.

Front:
camber -1, toe 0
flat arms, flat tower
kick up 25, caster 5
3mm trailing, no bump steer spacers
axle middle, caster block centered
ackerman roughly 2mm (scrounged around various washers for this )
Shock Mount 2B, links 1B with 0.75 mm spacer (black plastic kit washer)
ride height arms level
Shocks -
3x 1.4 taper (rebound) drowned in 30 wt ASC on White Springs
all other shock parts/measurements are stock.

Rear:
Camber -1
Ride Height arms level
Links on 2B up with 1mm on inner link mount
Shocks mounted 2B
arm mount - 2.5 x 2 deg antisquat and 0.5 hub inserts

Shocks -
1.7 pistons drowned in 32.5 ASC with White Springs
I run an extra limiter and back out the eyelet 1 turn to get back to stock travel.

Tires are JConcepts Smoothies w/ included dirt tech foams rolling on Bullet rims. Lately spreading some WD40 thinly on the tires then following with SXT 3.0.
Battery is Reedy 4100 shorty all the way back in the tray.
Tekin RS with Reedy Mach 2 running 31 deg timing with 35 pinion and 72 spur. Of course you'll need to adjust for your layout.
Track is 118x46, medium speed with one straight of 80something feet into a long sweeper. Both speedo and motor coming off at 125-130f.
Ball diff at standard settings and stock clutch.

video of the track can be seen - https://www.youtube.com/user/NewRedHobbies/ and also at this unfortunately nasty link - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4m...mwQ0mgw/videos

I will probably try bumping the front oil up to 32.5 looking for a little less dive and might even convert the rear to 3 x 1.4s for shtis and giggles.

Let me know if I've forgotten any other important bits of info.

ps.. no I have not scaled it in any fashion but according to just about everyone on here this thing is a pig!
good luck.
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:32 PM   #10046
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner View Post
Any suggestions on what oil to run in a gear diff? I'm using 3000 right now but thought about trying 1000 or even 35-weight shock oil.

On a separate - but possibly related - note, my car is working well on a large and relatively loose track except for the middle of 3 long carousel corners. Right in the middle of each of these, the car wants to break loose unpredictably. Each of them are long, constant arcs when you're turning for 1-2 seconds. I thought perhaps the diff oil might be too thick and not letting the wheels turn independently enough in these sweeping corners and thus breaking loose at the slightest addition of throttle? The setup is essentially Cav's spektrum setup. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
1. 3000 sounds pretty "down the middle"
2. A ball diff will be measurably faster on a loose track
3. Cav's setup for spekrum was for a high to high bite track, with a ball diff. Why are you running this setup?

Your issue sounds like maybe a problem with the car that we won't be able to diagnose here on the forums. Could be bad foams, bad glue job, worn out-drives, who knows.
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:16 AM   #10047
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Soon to be ready for the track.
For more pics go to facebook
ASSOCIATED B5M PROTO TEAM
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:21 AM   #10048
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EDIT: Sorry, thought this was a b44.3 question. ignore my previous post.
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Last edited by Razathorn; 12-29-2014 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:31 AM   #10049
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Thanks for the suggestions regarding the gear diff and sweeper issues I've had.

I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:44 AM   #10050
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Thanks for the suggestions regarding the gear diff and sweeper issues I've had.

I like the gear diff because our track can be super sticky sometimes, but it can turn into an ice rink over the course of 8+ hours of racing. I'm going to put the ball diff in and test that out and see what difference it makes for the long sweeping turns...
Please ignore my last post as I thought I was in the b44.3 thread and the information provided was entirely wrong outside of thicker diff usually being better for rear traction.
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