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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:52 PM   #10021
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Originally Posted by steelers82 View Post
does anyone know how to install the ft steering rack, no idea where the shims go that come with it?
goes between the bearings.

http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/avid-b5...m-spring-cups/



"Avidís Avert aluminium spring cups for the Team Associated B5, B5M and B44.3 are a direct replacement for the standard plastic cups and they are of a unique angled slot design to prevent them from coming off in demanding conditions. They also fit snug on the shock eyelet to help prevent shock shafts from pulling out of the plastic shock end. The cupís dimensions resemble the +5 Associated parts, they are machined from black anodised 6061-T6 aluminium material and come in packs of four including an Avid mini decal sheet."
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:36 PM   #10022
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thanks guys I get buy from a little help
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:50 PM   #10023
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goes between the bearings.

http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/avid-b5...m-spring-cups/



"Avidís Avert aluminium spring cups for the Team Associated B5, B5M and B44.3 are a direct replacement for the standard plastic cups and they are of a unique angled slot design to prevent them from coming off in demanding conditions. They also fit snug on the shock eyelet to help prevent shock shafts from pulling out of the plastic shock end. The cupís dimensions resemble the +5 Associated parts, they are machined from black anodised 6061-T6 aluminium material and come in packs of four including an Avid mini decal sheet."

So you made a heavier piece in the worst place possible.

I hope they're cooler, but this also, "Traxxas T maxx make everything out of aluminium" mentality isn't for me. The plastic ones work fine, and I haven't seen a spring cup failure since my xx days.
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:54 PM   #10024
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
So you made a heavier piece in the worst place possible.

I hope they're cooler, but this also, "Traxxas T maxx make everything out of aluminium" mentality isn't for me. The plastic ones work fine, and I haven't seen a spring cup failure since my xx days.
Aluminum pieces often do not weigh more than their plastic counterparts.
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:28 PM   #10025
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Default Soldering

I read through the soldering threads but was just wondering if anyone has some input on this. I bought some 0.050 63/37 rosin core Radio Shack solder and a bottle of liquid rosin flux from the local electronic store but its RA not RMA flux. Will this work for soldering bullet ends and the ESC wires to the motor? Not real familiar with soldering. Thanks.
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:35 PM   #10026
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Aluminum pieces often do not weigh more than their plastic counterparts.
I would assume if these saved even a gram of weight, it'd be all over the advertisement.

Edit:

1.3g each. Minimum Weight, Maximum Durability.

What do the stock spring caps weigh?
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:58 PM   #10027
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need a little more rear grip, new to offroad but not racing, running kit setup on tight indoor clay track. Tires of choice are super softs or m4 compound, have tried different compounds and inserts but the rear of the car is a bit to free to really push the car. I have managed to tq and win the last 2 races out of the3 i have entered. i removed the ft 2mm spacers under the ball studs looking for more grip. What would be the next step? short rear links? springs? oil? car is not bad but i have to be really smooth or the rear wants to step out, this is in stock buggy.
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:31 PM   #10028
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You running rm rear arms?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:43 PM   #10029
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I read through the soldering threads but was just wondering if anyone has some input on this. I bought some 0.050 63/37 rosin core Radio Shack solder and a bottle of liquid rosin flux from the local electronic store but its RA not RMA flux. Will this work for soldering bullet ends and the ESC wires to the motor? Not real familiar with soldering. Thanks.
The solder alone should be fine. You shouldn't need the liquid flux. Our components are usually fairly clean and don't need more flux than what's included with the wire. Too much flux can just make a mess. Most guys use 60/40, but your stuff is OK. I also personally use finer solder. I believe it's 30mil. Not saying bigger stuff won't work, I just like smaller strands and I'll just feed more as required.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:22 PM   #10030
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The solder alone should be fine. You shouldn't need the liquid flux. Our components are usually fairly clean and don't need more flux than what's included with the wire. Too much flux can just make a mess. Most guys use 60/40, but your stuff is OK. I also personally use finer solder. I believe it's 30mil. Not saying bigger stuff won't work, I just like smaller strands and I'll just feed more as required.
I find that even with RS 60/40 rosin core solder, having paste flux on the surface makes for a FAR better soldering experience. Heat transfers faster, perfectly clean shiny solder joints. I even use to DE-solder something.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:23 PM   #10031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I read through the soldering threads but was just wondering if anyone has some input on this. I bought some 0.050 63/37 rosin core Radio Shack solder and a bottle of liquid rosin flux from the local electronic store but its RA not RMA flux. Will this work for soldering bullet ends and the ESC wires to the motor? Not real familiar with soldering. Thanks.
Read the soldering bible. This has helped me tremendously. Using flux is key.

How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:28 AM   #10032
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Can anyone recommend an aluminium servo horn from Amain that is a good fit for a SAVOX 1251 and the b5M?
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:33 AM   #10033
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You running rm rear arms?
no im running all stock b5m
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:57 AM   #10034
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
So you made a heavier piece in the worst place possible.

I hope they're cooler, but this also, "Traxxas T maxx make everything out of aluminium" mentality isn't for me. The plastic ones work fine, and I haven't seen a spring cup failure since my xx days.
Alloy spring cups are heavier. I use them as a tuning option. My local track can be really fast but gets pretty rough too. The weight keeps the inside front wheel more planted while turning when you have a soft enough suspension setting to handle the rough. It eliminates the wheel chatter. Remember the game is about traction. Traction comes from the correct amount of presure on the tire. A heavier sprung weight adds presure to the wheel. Of course common knowledge states the less unsung weight the better, that's not always true.
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:12 AM   #10035
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Originally Posted by customss View Post
need a little more rear grip, new to offroad but not racing, running kit setup on tight indoor clay track. Tires of choice are super softs or m4 compound, have tried different compounds and inserts but the rear of the car is a bit to free to really push the car. I have managed to tq and win the last 2 races out of the3 i have entered. i removed the ft 2mm spacers under the ball studs looking for more grip. What would be the next step? short rear links? springs? oil? car is not bad but i have to be really smooth or the rear wants to step out, this is in stock buggy.
Since you don't have the RM rear arms you can push your rear hubs all the way forward, put your shock all the way in on the rear shock tower, go to 0 ballstud washers on the rear inner camber link, go to the 2 hole insert in the rear hubs all the way out (long link) (I did this the other day and my car was almost to locked in), softer oil and spring in the rear, larger hole or more holes in piston.

Those are a few things you can do to get more grip.

I run on a medium bite track usually and I run stock and my setup is basically exactly like what I just gave you but I run 3x1.4s all the way around 32.5 in the front 30w in the rear white springs front and green rear and I have the RM rear arms and my car is pretty much always locked in.
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