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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:45 PM   #9991
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I'm picking up a B5M tomorrow, Any tips or tricks I need to know about? Thanks in advance.
The ballcups will probably be really tight, check the first post for some fixes. I'd suggest some titanium camber links, Front shock tower and arms for a B5, possibly the rear arms, and not much else (maybe an aluminum rear camber mount, but I'm still running the stock plastic one myself)
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:48 PM   #9992
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aluminum rear ballstud mount the plastic one will break
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:53 PM   #9993
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I'm picking up a B5M tomorrow, Any tips or tricks I need to know about? Thanks in advance.
Start with the 1st post on this thread, do the "squeeze method" with pliers as the stock ball cups will be stiff and bind up.

Just build it and run it!
Box stock set-up is a good start.
Upgrade as your budget allows!

Only NEED TO HAVE thinngs are the rear camber mount is very fragile, when it breaks replace with aluminum, AE or Schelle are great pieces. The stock front wheel bearings and gearbox bearings are rough, Schelle bearings are very sweet there too (gearbox, get the oiled ceramics, they are awesome)!
Otherwise you sholud be good to go!

Nice bling parts are Aluminum C+D mounts are nice, Titanium turnbuckles are nice, aluminum top shaft is nice, Avid/Schelle slipper is a very good upgrade as well!

Theres other upgrades but not totally necessary unless your gonna try to win a lightest buggy contest!

Hope that helps!
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:59 PM   #9994
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the front bearing wear because the way they are designed, it doesnt matter what bearing you put its gonna get destroyed, the upgraded axels and a shim can help
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:06 PM   #9995
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Honestly, IMHO, the only things that needs upgraded on the b5m out of the box are the turnbuckles (the steel ones will bend and snap very easily and are the weakest link in every part of the suspension) and the rear hub ball stud will back out unless you practically glue the ball stud in, so use red loctite, and a lot of it, or do what I did and get a washer and locknut and use longer ballstuds and washer on the ball side and nut on the aluminum side and lock that sob in there. I even like the stock slipper.

Wayne
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:15 PM   #9996
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I agree with the above Ti turnbuckles are about the only out of the box upgrade you need. The rest of the car is really good, on both my B5 and B5m i have broke one front shock tower and one front bulkhead. I have had both cars sense they came out.
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:24 PM   #9997
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Only NEED TO HAVE thinngs are the rear camber mount is very fragile, when it breaks replace with aluminum, AE or Schelle are great pieces.
People have been breaking the plastic rear camber link on buggies for years and the solution is always the same: put grub screws in the empty, unused holes. This strengthens the block and helps prevent breakage. I haven't broken one since I started doing this years ago on my old RB5.

And if you want to be extra cautious (I never bother with this), you can use a LONG ballstud that sticks out below the camber mount and pop a small nut on it.
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:26 PM   #9998
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*Deleted, problem solved.

Last edited by billdogg; 12-25-2014 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:07 PM   #9999
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I've tried to install the brass arm c mount (91523) and cannot for the life of me work out how it comes together with the rear tower on the rear of the chassis. What am I missing?
Can one of you fine gents post a picture or explain what I need to do please?
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:14 PM   #10000
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C goes forward. Not near the tower
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:33 PM   #10001
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I've got pucks and cb's cut gears and everything installed with no issues...
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Old 12-25-2014, 09:54 PM   #10002
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C goes forward. Not near the tower
Thank you. Rookie error. Think I'm still hungover.
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Old 12-25-2014, 10:02 PM   #10003
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Ha ha priceless!
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:35 AM   #10004
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it looks like I have bump out when I compress my front end. should I not worry about it or could I lower my front axle by 1mm or cut it down where the ball end attaches to go -1 on bump steer
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:43 AM   #10005
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it looks like I have bump out when I compress my front end. should I not worry about it or could I lower my front axle by 1mm or cut it down where the ball end attaches to go -1 on bump steer
Yes a lot of guys are doing cutting down where the ballstud goes since Cav put -1 bump steer on his setup sheet
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