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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:46 AM
  #9541  
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The B5m is awesome right out of the box with little setup changes needed for stock class. It is a lot better quality than the centro and way better than the B4.2. Parts are avalible at my hobby shops locally. We had a big race this last weekend and did not see any of the B series buggies break and they did great

Last edited by Tony Rivas; 05-09-2014 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:54 AM
  #9542  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Retard. Everyone knows the B5 series of cars were released with no good setup, on top of the fact that they are both just beefed up B4's and Centros.
If they are just beefed up B4's and Centro's why not adapt a previous setup from one of those platforms? I adapted a setup I always ran on my B4 to my B5 rear motor and its pretty awesome. And for the parts....I have yet to break anything, the car is tough.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:04 AM
  #9543  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Got picked up by Trakpower for this year. I had the B5R and hated it. No parts and no setup. I will eventually have to go back to 2wheel drive buggy and the the Xray buggy for dirt is probably a year off. Is the B5M finally established setup wise? How about parts?.
Honestly, if your sponsored, you should be able to make a setup and a car work for you. just sayin

Last edited by Tony Rivas; 05-09-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:14 AM
  #9544  
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I'm having problems accelerating thru a couple of turns and dumping over the rear , any suggestions on how to cure this . the setup is pretty out of the box except 1.6 all around and White springs all around . thnx in advance
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:15 AM
  #9545  
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Originally Posted by Rcgman
Just checking... Did you use Tamiya PS or TS paint. TS says for plastic on the can. TS will begin to flake and peel in short order.

Not saying you didn't use PS paint but it has happened to a few people I know.... In a hurry, I grabbed a can of TS paint recently from the Hobby Shop myself but caught the error before using it. Exchanged it for PS on the next trip to the shop.
Ah crap!!

Sure enough, just looked at the cans and two of the three I bought were TS and not PS! They were all in the same rack so I didn't even bother to look at the cans. The two colors that are peeling were the TS colors. Grr...

I wonder how hard it would be to strip the paint and start over?

Thanks for the tip! I probably would have never bothered to look at the cans again otherwise.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:24 AM
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Hi guys are the titanium axels from Psm with it? They are only 20$ and it will drop tons of weight?
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:34 AM
  #9547  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
If they are just beefed up B4's and Centro's why not adapt a previous setup from one of those platforms? I adapted a setup I always ran on my B4 to my B5 rear motor and its pretty awesome. And for the parts....I have yet to break anything, the car is tough.
+1 on durability. I went a little wide on a long jump landing and hit a pipe nail at full speed. The car instantly stopped, so the front arm took all of the force. I actually have a dent in my arm, but nothing broke. I broke a bulkhead going full speed into a wall....the car is not weak. And yeah,Matt. I pretty much ended up with my b4 setup with a little extra droop. If I can toon my own car, I would expect sponsored drivers to not use that as a reason to not run a chassis.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
Hi guys are the titanium axels from Psm with it? They are only 20$ and it will drop tons of weight?
lunsford and I think exotek have axles. A "ton" of weight? no. not a ton. just a couple grams less than a lead weight
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
+1 on durability. I went a little wide on a long jump landing and hit a pipe nail at full speed. The car instantly stopped, so the front arm took all of the force. I actually have a dent in my arm, but nothing broke. I broke a bulkhead going full speed into a wall....the car is not weak. And yeah,Matt. I pretty much ended up with my b4 setup with a little extra droop. If I can toon my own car, I would expect sponsored drivers to not use that as a reason to not run a chassis.
Seeing as how he only gave it 8 runs (and roughly a week to week and a half)....not a fair shakedown i'd say.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...5-00-firm.html
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:01 AM
  #9550  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I have yet to break anything, the car is tough.

Broke the front tower on pack 7...

I was punchN it over the jump with a team mate

and I got the worst if it.

silent hunter,my appoligies...


Your decorum is on a 8th grade level at best...
Try to be more friendly & respectful and maybe we could have many meaningful conversations....
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:23 AM
  #9551  
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Front axle weights:

Stock -
Lunsford Ti -
Exotech Ti -

??
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:36 AM
  #9552  
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Ah, I needed a good laugh this morning. Can always count on RC Tech to come through in the clutch.

Anyways, currently building my MM car. I've built a lot of cars and usually take my time shaving off extra molding and whatnot. I literally had 70% of the car built in about an hour. It shows how much effort went into the fitment of parts with this car during development. Goes together so well and super quick.

Be running it soon.

TK
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:45 AM
  #9553  
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Started my build last night. Should I go straight to the flat arms/tower from the start or run the stock front end first? A couple guys at one track I go to have made the switch and seem to like it.

Setting up my mid so I can run it back to back with my rear motor for a while.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:50 AM
  #9554  
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
Started my build last night. Should I go straight to the flat arms/tower from the start or run the stock front end first? A couple guys at one track I go to have made the switch and seem to like it.

Setting up my mid so I can run it back to back with my rear motor for a while.
run laps on both and pick what you like best. its pretty easy to change the towers and arms. It seems that "most" guys like the flat arms. I would try the stock arms first. then switch to the flat.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:55 AM
  #9555  
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
Started my build last night. Should I go straight to the flat arms/tower from the start or run the stock front end first? A couple guys at one track I go to have made the switch and seem to like it.

Setting up my mid so I can run it back to back with my rear motor for a while.
Went with the flat arms myself...
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