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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-03-2014, 12:56 PM   #9466
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Originally Posted by rc_speed View Post
17.5 stock
Long story short..build the car and drive it first. THEN decide what aftermarket parts will help you the most.

I'm not even going to suggest the RM rear arms, Front arms and tower to start. Because even those are my opinion.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:10 PM   #9467
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Long story short..build the car and drive it first. THEN decide what aftermarket parts will help you the most.

I'm not even going to suggest the RM rear arms, Front arms and tower to start. Because even those are my opinion.
I have tried the MM arms several times. I just dont like them. they make the steering feel non linear and unpredictable. They do give more initial steering, but it feels weird to me. I found removing ackerman washers had a better feel and increased turn in using the RM arms. But yeah, you need to try them to see if you like them. I did not. The car comes with them, so might as well try them. The car does seem to land jumps a little better with the MM front arms.
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:10 PM   #9468
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Hi all,

I have a little setup question :

I'm running a B5m with shorty on super stock (13.5t with lots of timing) basically completely stock setup.
I have the same tires as everybody on the club (schum mini pin + cut stagger both yellow compound ) running on good grip carpet.
My issue is that the car tends do fight me on mid corners.
I can't zip around as fast as the others. It lets go sideways brutally but can be controlled back again almost instantly up to 2-3times in one corner.
From a viewer it looks like I'm fighting the car and that it's got a sort of side jumping(brutal sliding) ability.
Looking at many guys setup on similar track they have put stiffer spring all around but especially at the front (no one owns the b5m at my club apart from one guy that didn't show up for a while).
Would that help ? I also have a gear diff set at 2000 which I refill on a very regular basis.

Thank in advance

Jonathan
I don't have much experience with this car on carpet, but I do with other cars.

Have you tried going up in weight in diff oil? Like 4K or something? If I recall correctly, I was running 5K the couple nights I did carpet racing.

Also, stiffer springs front and rear would definitely help smooth things out.

What shock oil and pistons are you running? The other thing I found I had to do was go up in oil weight in comparison to dirt racing. Think I ran 42.5wt in the front and 37.5 in the rear. Depends on the track though.

Where is your ride height? I normally run 24mm front/rear on dirt, but on carpet I was dropping to 18mm or even lower depending on the jumps.

Also could try running longer camber links, generally helps reduce chassis roll on higher bite surfaces.

Hopefully this gives you a few things to try!

Seth
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:18 PM   #9469
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anyone notice that the B5R rear arms rub on the chassis by the hinge brace? I had to shave the arms down a little in that area... Did not notice if it was making my buggy handle wierd but did not want to take that chance...
I keep looking at your pics, and my newly assembled car, and don't see it. Mine doesn't look at all like there's contact.
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:34 PM   #9470
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Slight rub yeah.
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #9471
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[QUOTE=3D-Seth;13696721]I don't have much experience with this car on carpet, but I do with other cars.

Have you tried going up in weight in diff oil? Like 4K or something? If I recall correctly, I was running 5K the couple nights I did carpet racing.

Also, stiffer springs front and rear would definitely help smooth things out.

What shock oil and pistons are you running? The other thing I found I had to do was go up in oil weight in comparison to dirt racing. Think I ran 42.5wt in the front and 37.5 in the rear. Depends on the track though.

Where is your ride height? I normally run 24mm front/rear on dirt, but on carpet I was dropping to 18mm or even lower depending on the jumps.

Also could try running longer camber links, generally helps reduce chassis roll on higher bite surfaces.

Longer camber links will increase chassis roll.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:24 PM   #9472
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I just bought a B5M and I am currently building it. I am looking for some gearing help. I will be running a LRP Flow esc and a LRP 13.5 motor.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:25 PM   #9473
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I keep looking at your pics, and my newly assembled car, and don't see it. Mine doesn't look at all like there's contact.
My old kit rubs... My newer kit doesnt... Clearanced both anyways...
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:32 PM   #9474
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Wow very quick replies thank you !
The piston and oil are stock setup. I've just put red spring front (don't have stiffer rear spring appart yellow which maybe too much). And I've put 5k oil in the diff also I just added the 45g 25 brass weight at the front (everybody seems to use it on carpet).
I'll see how that will work

Thank you again

Jonathan
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:33 PM   #9475
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What spacers are your referring to? Just curious

I've seen some of the cut gears where they decrease the overall width. I am not saying this is a better or worse method as far as durability simply that some require spacers. I believe the RC Shox gears require spacing and maybe CB?
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:56 PM   #9476
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Idler centers regardless of width.
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:44 PM   #9477
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So, moved the esc behind the battery and shortened some wires. Buggy tips on at 1531 grams. Still have more to remove, like screws, Turnbuckles, slipper, etc. Why is minimum weight 1499? I don't get it. Why not call it even 1500?
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:56 PM   #9478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
Also could try running longer camber links, generally helps reduce chassis roll on higher bite surfaces.

Longer camber links will increase chassis roll.
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:57 PM   #9479
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
So, moved the esc behind the battery and shortened some wires. Buggy tips on at 1531 grams. Still have more to remove, like screws, Turnbuckles, slipper, etc. Why is minimum weight 1499? I don't get it. Why not call it even 1500?
What class do you run? Most people prefer the car around 1540 gr. If you get the car too lite it seems like it gets too twitchy and hard to drive. In mod from time to time we will throw a square pack in it to calm it down a little bit. with as fast as stock motors are these days im sure that too lite of a car will have an adverse effect.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:45 PM   #9480
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Silly question. When figuring the weight of the car, is it with or without tires on?
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