bbrace3m

iTrader: (5)

can you get the gulwing arms for the rear motor?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

no they are only for the MM.......j/k it is the same stuff.....

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

You can but you need all the hardware up front for them as well.

Wild Cherry

@ the track

Just installed the new Ae alloy hubs...(black)

Number's facing same side as shocks.
middle of arm
Camber location is inside hole

using 3mm spacing under stud & 4mm spacing under alloy chassis camber stud

langsky

iTrader: (27)

Yes, but you should run the B5M tower with them.

Hacksback

Check out the relation to the lower shock mount and pivot points of lower arm. Also check out tower mounting bolts vs upper shock mounts.

1evo RRR Driver

iTrader: (11)

Ebay. I just bought both today $7 each

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Shim it to remove some of the added angle and then raise suspension a tad to get you back in the range you were.

k1ller rc

iTrader: (316)

Ive been watching on the wing debate. I Took a pair of 4-40 Scoket head screws(I think 1/2 in) Ground off the nubs on the wing mount, drilled a 2.5mm hole, ran the socket head screws up from the bottom. Then used a standard set of thumb screws, which seat perfectly snug in the holes and prevents the wing from moving. And provides a easy on/off installation of the wing.
Hope this helps.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

imo, too high of a profile and they will dig into the track on crashes. I was thinking about something similar, but opted for a lower profile option

k1ller rc

iTrader: (316)

Ya, I could see that, But it's a toss up between that and the wing shifting. I just happened to choose the higher profile because I would rather have a stabler wing. If I was on a constant high speed track, then it may bother me. If I ever need lower profile, Ill put on a new wing and drill smaller holes.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I know Cherry said his kit has the updated crush tubes up front. Can anyone else confirm? Are they available separately yet in the updated form? I have some interesting behavior in my front hubs and I am thinking it might be the crush tubes.

djhSPAWN

So, after trying to get out of the hobby I am pulled back in and have a B5M on the way. I just wanted to make sure all my basis are covered after reading through so many pages of this thread. As of now I am not going to do the little things that I see the more vet people doing (cutting and what not). I plan on racing this in stock and as of now my driving skills are still whats slowing me down. So here is what I got for the B5M.

Lunsford Ti Turnbuckle
B5 Front Shock Tower and Arms

Any other things I am missing?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the rear alum camber link would be good for durability. In the past it has appeared to be a little weak.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Think you got it right to first concentrate on your driving skills. Once you start competing with the other drivers in your class you can get an aluminum top shaft, mip puck system, slipper eliminator. This car is great right out of the box. I would build it per the manual before doing anything. Get used to the stock setup first so you can compare any changes to stock when you make them. You made the right decision with this model. Super strong and drives great. Enjoy the build and good racing to you.