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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:38 PM   #9271
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Hey guys im sure this was talked about but here is my question this is my first 2wd buggy and was wondering i already have saddle packs has anyone seen a difference performance wise between saddle and shorty
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:44 PM   #9272
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Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:48 PM   #9273
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma View Post
I have this same issue and want a cure also
change the dirt to super tacky clay, lol. lol, J/K. I run on medium to high bite indoor tracks. For rear bite, I run 3-1 toe/squat, Rm rear arms and hubs forward. Smallest pinion and spur combo to move the motor back. I weight in at 1560 grams. And I run my shorty back with the esc center-lined against the battery. Rear shocks inside/inside. 32.5/30 oils with Avis 1.5x1.1 front and 1.6 rear pistons. White front and grey rear springs. Also, my slipper is set to prevent wheelies, meaning it is not locked. I am running the Avid Evo woth white/red/white. I have plenty of rear bite, but I could possible have more traction on the track than some of you.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:57 PM   #9274
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
Get the RM front tower, easy fix and pretty cheap. My $0.02
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:29 PM   #9275
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Yes change your tower.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:28 PM   #9276
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Get the RM front tower, easy fix and pretty cheap. My $0.02
Yeah I know that, I will get one, but I was curious what the setup is to use the MM tower.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:56 PM   #9277
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
change the dirt to super tacky clay, lol. lol, J/K. I run on medium to high bite indoor tracks. For rear bite, I run 3-1 toe/squat, Rm rear arms and hubs forward. Smallest pinion and spur combo to move the motor back. I weight in at 1560 grams. And I run my shorty back with the esc center-lined against the battery. Rear shocks inside/inside. 32.5/30 oils with Avis 1.5x1.1 front and 1.6 rear pistons. White front and grey rear springs. Also, my slipper is set to prevent wheelies, meaning it is not locked. I am running the Avid Evo woth white/red/white. I have plenty of rear bite, but I could possible have more traction on the track than some of you.
Running same except 1.6 all around... Ill try loosening my slipper... Anyone know if you can program timing on stock spec v3.1 hobbywing??
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:57 PM   #9278
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

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I would try a roll center change. Try lowering the inner rear link 1mm, it should help keep the car more planted and create more traction. Its also a much quicker change than most of whats listed above. I had a similar problem with my car, but it was more entry-mid corner transitioning onto the throttle. I went to 0mm and it helped greatly. Another think you could try is adding .5 degrees of toe at the hub.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:18 PM   #9279
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Does anybody know how much the aluminum screw kit saves in weight?
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:02 PM   #9280
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Originally Posted by The Wease View Post
I'm using a 6070 just had to remove the spacer , I get full deflection left and right
Thanks! Appears your 6070 has a touch more clearance than mine. I ground down the case just a touch and everything is moving freely now!

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Old 11-23-2014, 10:32 PM   #9281
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for example a 81/36 and a 72/32 will both give you a fdr of 5.85, what determines the combination you go with? What would the difference be running each combination on the same motor?
Motor position. Larger gears move the motor (and therefor your weight bias) forward, smaller gears moves it back.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:33 PM   #9282
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
That is what I am currently running. Dialed. Shorten your shock shaft stroke to 18.5mm. (i think you go from 2mm to 4mm internal limiters).
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:51 PM   #9283
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What does it do differently with mm tower and flat front arm?

Last edited by pink_sleeve; 11-24-2014 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:29 AM   #9284
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Motor position. Larger gears move the motor (and therefor your weight bias) forward, smaller gears moves it back.
Thanks. I hadn't thought about weight bias. What role does the motors torque and RPM play in the making a choice? I'm thinking a low torque motor would have a hard time spinning a larger pinion with a small spur vs a small pinion with a larger spur. I've tried different combinations and I'm not getting the results I expect.

When I marshal I've noticed that those that are fast, when they come around a turn and hit the throttle their car launches forward real hard. Mine doesn't have that jump but instead has to build up speed. ESC is a Tekin RS Gen2 and the current limiter is turned off when running mod and in blinky when running stock, so that's why I'm focused on gearing.
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:42 AM   #9285
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Originally Posted by McCroskey View Post
Thanks. I hadn't thought about weight bias. What role does the motors torque and RPM play in the making a choice? I'm thinking a low torque motor would have a hard time spinning a larger pinion with a small spur vs a small pinion with a larger spur. I've tried different combinations and I'm not getting the results I expect.

When I marshal I've noticed that those that are fast, when they come around a turn and hit the throttle their car launches forward real hard. Mine doesn't have that jump but instead has to build up speed. ESC is a Tekin RS Gen2 and the current limiter is turned off when running mod and in blinky when running stock, so that's why I'm focused on gearing.
What motor are you running? I have no problem with pull out of the corners in blinky. I'm geared 72/30 with a tekin gen2 motor.
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