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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:47 PM   #9136
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Old 11-16-2014, 02:17 AM   #9137
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Captain, I still haven't figured out what Nordfink is talking about, have you?
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:22 AM   #9138
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does anyone know the weights for the xfactory carbon fiber chassis and the aluminum stock chassis for the b5m?
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:37 AM   #9139
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Looks heavy and big
No more so than the Finnisher that is the flavor of the month out here.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:20 PM   #9140
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Default B5m Build

Bout finished building the B5m. Haven't build a car in 13 years. Comparing this chassis to the XXX that has been sitting on my bookshelf since 2002 is interesting. Seem like there is a much larger emphasis on the rear wing. It's much bigger, and looks like it was designed on CAD and wind tunnel - looks like it might actually do something. The bigger shocks can't help but provide more traction(which will be need to offset the traction lost with the bound up ballcups). This car looks like it would be much more difficult to break than the cars of the era I raced last (98-02). I love how the hinge pins are captured, and I no longer have to deal with c-clips

Gotta say I'm not impressed with AE's quality control. In addition to super bindy ball cups that everyone mentioned, the Shock end cups were even tighter and bound up......One of the outdrives is defective. The drive shaft fits in it so tightly that I can dangle the entire tranny from it. Ive never seen that happen. That will destroy the handling of the vehicle I'm guessing...When did replacement outdrives become so expensive?........The diff is not very smooth, hopefully when I break it in, it will be better............Also, one of the Shock caps bleeder holes is not drilled out or molded out. Going to have to try to find a tiny drill bit to fix.

Can't wait to get it finished and take it out to the track!
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:41 PM   #9141
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Considering picking up this kit, have a lot of experience with 2WD buggies, just one of the "other" brands. Familiar with mid motor cars so all is well there. Running on high bite clay in mod, have a couple of questions (I have already checked the first page):

What spur gear is everyone running in mod? With the other brand mid motor car I've been running, we went to the smallest spur possible to get the motor as far back as possible. Similar concept here?

Are there any necessary parts or tuning options I should have in my box? Planning on having both the flat arms and tower and gull arms/ tower. Have tons of springs, oils, etc, so not concerned about that stuff but more B5 specific stuff.

What should I have in my box for spare parts? Arms, spindles, castor blocks?

Any help is appreciated!

Seth
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:49 PM   #9142
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Captain, I still haven't figured out what Nordfink is talking about, have you?
nope
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:16 AM   #9143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Considering picking up this kit, have a lot of experience with 2WD buggies, just one of the "other" brands. Familiar with mid motor cars so all is well there. Running on high bite clay in mod, have a couple of questions (I have already checked the first page):

What spur gear is everyone running in mod? With the other brand mid motor car I've been running, we went to the smallest spur possible to get the motor as far back as possible. Similar concept here?

Are there any necessary parts or tuning options I should have in my box? Planning on having both the flat arms and tower and gull arms/ tower. Have tons of springs, oils, etc, so not concerned about that stuff but more B5 specific stuff.

What should I have in my box for spare parts? Arms, spindles, castor blocks?

Any help is appreciated!

Seth
Most folks run 75-78 spur gears. As for parts, you really dont "need" any options to make the car fast in Modified racing. I personnaly like the vented 2 pad slipper from the B4.2 WC (V2) and the Factory Team rear camber link. That is really all you need. I also the RM rear arms. They are 2mm shorter and sweep the wheels forward just a hair. Hope this helps.

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Old 11-17-2014, 07:44 AM   #9144
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In regards to the ADI MM Waterfall and fan mount, I was planning to pick one up to try out, but after talking friends at the track, I will pass. Seems like they are not very durable. Several locals are breaking them. The material appears to just not be up to RC specs. Just an FYI. Meh, I was kinda hoping it would be good. On the plus side, the weather is getting cooler, so my cars are dropping temps anyway. Wont really be an issue until next spring. Maybe by then someone (AE) can make a molded waterfall with a fan mount.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:14 AM   #9145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Considering picking up this kit, have a lot of experience with 2WD buggies, just one of the "other" brands. Familiar with mid motor cars so all is well there. Running on high bite clay in mod, have a couple of questions (I have already checked the first page):

What spur gear is everyone running in mod? With the other brand mid motor car I've been running, we went to the smallest spur possible to get the motor as far back as possible. Similar concept here?

Are there any necessary parts or tuning options I should have in my box? Planning on having both the flat arms and tower and gull arms/ tower. Have tons of springs, oils, etc, so not concerned about that stuff but more B5 specific stuff.

What should I have in my box for spare parts? Arms, spindles, castor blocks?

Any help is appreciated!

Seth

I normally run the 81 spur but do switch to 78 to move the motor back if needed.
  • glue front spindle inserts in
  • FT aluminum shock mounts or Schelle shock mounts
  • Aluminum C & D plates with inserts
  • Aluminum rear camber plate from Schelle (gives you one additional camber hole)
  • AE FT aluminum steering
  • AE FT aluminum rear hexes

Spare parts to keep would be the front suspension block. the buggy is tough. If you run Mod then putting electronics in-line and all of the other crazy get ups people run are not necessary. I think the stock AE 3 pad slipper is crap and would invest in one from Schelle or similar. Run it with normal layout. Oh and most importantly, have fun and clear some shelf space for the trophies that will be coming!
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:23 AM   #9146
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I recently switched to the Proline Trifecta wing. Anyone tried this wing and noticed anything different in steering? I have noticed a bit more push. I think this is partly do to the downforce and partly to the weight. The trifecta wing is about 20 grams heavier than my previous JC wing.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:52 AM   #9147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Bout finished building the B5m. Haven't build a car in 13 years. Comparing this chassis to the XXX that has been sitting on my bookshelf since 2002 is interesting. Seem like there is a much larger emphasis on the rear wing. It's much bigger, and looks like it was designed on CAD and wind tunnel - looks like it might actually do something. The bigger shocks can't help but provide more traction(which will be need to offset the traction lost with the bound up ballcups). This car looks like it would be much more difficult to break than the cars of the era I raced last (98-02). I love how the hinge pins are captured, and I no longer have to deal with c-clips

Gotta say I'm not impressed with AE's quality control. In addition to super bindy ball cups that everyone mentioned, the Shock end cups were even tighter and bound up......One of the outdrives is defective. The drive shaft fits in it so tightly that I can dangle the entire tranny from it. Ive never seen that happen. That will destroy the handling of the vehicle I'm guessing...When did replacement outdrives become so expensive?........The diff is not very smooth, hopefully when I break it in, it will be better............Also, one of the Shock caps bleeder holes is not drilled out or molded out. Going to have to try to find a tiny drill bit to fix.

Can't wait to get it finished and take it out to the track!
It had been 22 years for me. The speed of the electronics today vrs. 22 years ago is INSANE. The straighter the track the worse I was. I was TERRIBLE! I built my shocks in a vented bladder configuration. Used Serpent bladders. The longest strait away is the farthest from drivers stand and is 90 degrees from stand. I looked as though I was drunk as a skunk. How embarrassing.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:11 AM   #9148
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Hey guys, can anybody help me with a setup that is forgiving for a medium traction clay track? I don't want a really aggressive setup but something that will be a little easier to drive. I'm currently at 32.5 oil, 3x1.4 pistons in front, middle hole on the tower and outside on the arms and 3x1.6 piston with 30wt oil in the rear, inside hole on tower and inside on the rear arms.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:22 AM   #9149
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are you running the B5 rear motor front tower and f/r arms?
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:55 AM   #9150
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are you running the B5 rear motor front tower and f/r arms?
No, all the B5M parts are still on the car.
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