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Old 11-12-2014, 01:37 PM   #9046
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Thanks! Found the video and looks legit!
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:14 PM   #9047
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Remember ball dif adjustment screw should be opposite the motor plate.
Why? It's nothing more than personal preference. Those who say the diff will loosen/tighten if the nut/bolt is on one side vs. the other are simply wrong.
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:18 PM   #9048
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Why? It's nothing more than personal preference. Those who say the diff will loosen/tighten if the nut/bolt is on one side vs. the other are simply wrong.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:19 PM   #9049
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Cutting the chassis cross braces... Any really true gains or too unpredictable?
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:39 PM   #9050
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Been wanting a 2wd buggy so I bought this used:



I ran it as is and I gotta say I'm in love with it. I'm fairly quick and consistent with it. Just wasn't happy with the cheapo Justock 60A and Losi 13.5 it came with. So upgrades were needed then it became this...




I'll be the first to admit alot of this is unnecessary. The buggy was originally supposed to be optimized and lightweighted for 17.5. But I also do the RC drift thing so I love the bling! First drive will be tonight, really interested to see how it will do. I can already feel that the balance of the car has changed, I can only hope I can still drive it as consistently.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:10 PM   #9051
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Your car will most likely be pretty under-weight with that chassis.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:39 PM   #9052
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Also, if that's a microwave in your garage...#jelly
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:43 PM   #9053
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Quote:
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Why? It's nothing more than personal preference. Those who say the diff will loosen/tighten if the nut/bolt is on one side vs. the other are simply wrong.
Good to know, always heard it does make a difference. The manual said opposite of the motor plate too. One less thing to worry about now lol
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:23 PM   #9054
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Ok ill ask again. Please guys any rock solid evidence of chopping the chassis braces to gain more flex any good? Or are there mixed results on it being too unpredictable? Thanks... Looking to save weight and gain better performance wise if so...
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:32 PM   #9055
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I believe most guys are using orings inbetween the chassis and motor plate and not tighting them all the way.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:42 PM   #9056
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Are there any obvious hop ups that are a must do from box stock?
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:07 AM   #9057
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Are there any obvious hop ups that are a must do from box stock?
IMO, turnbuckles. Other than that nothing else is a MUST.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:00 PM   #9058
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Slightly OT, but anyone know if the fan is required for 17.5 on the Justock?

http://www.falconsekido.com/products...c-esc-for-1-10

I have a 3.1 but its a tank, trying to drop some g's.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:11 PM   #9059
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Quote:
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Slightly OT, but anyone know if the fan is required for 17.5 on the Justock?

http://www.falconsekido.com/products...c-esc-for-1-10

I have a 3.1 but its a tank, trying to drop some g's.
No usually a fan is not required in stock if your ESC is getting hot then you are more than likely under geared. But if I was you I would get the 3.1 Stock Spec version its like 40 grams and its the same as the 3.1 you have but only it has a plastic case vs the aluminum one and you can run down to a 5.5T. its $129
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:42 PM   #9060
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Hm, 61mm EVO style wheels from AE for the b5 and B44.3. I am surprised.
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