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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:16 AM   #8956
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I am on my third week of running my B5M with a 17.5 setup, at an indoor medium length track that starts out tacky, and after 80+ entries and 6 hours, starts to develop a layer of dust, even when the track is blown off between rounds.After the first week I thought... crap, i ordered the wrong configuration, this Mid motor sucks. On throttle out of the corner, I couldn't keep the rear wheels under me for the life of it.

I also looked at the brass pieces and thought "well thats dumb, because if the track is tacky to start, you have to pull everything apart to switch hangers back and forth as the track changes" I actually put the 30* block in front to assist in steering, and drilled and tapped the rear shock tower for a 4mm screw, and made a block of weight to add as the night wore on and the track went away. Car stuck like glue, no more feathering throttle and ddrs punch is back at 90%. night and day difference. The only other thing i did to make it work, was i also ran Sticky Kicks Red. Traction is no longer an issue.
What tires are you running in the rear? Compound? We have had something similar happen here, but we normally run clay tires. I was planning to swap to a SS tire when the water schedule does not favor Clay tires as much
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:34 AM   #8957
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I have been running the Barcode Greens all around. Was going to try electrons when the track developed dust, but don't see a need to now. Would like to try dirt webz coming up in one of these weeks as well.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:48 AM   #8958
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I always felt like Proline M4 was softer and had more traction than JC Green tires. IMO, M4 is the stickiest SS tire from the Major brands. I have not tried Sweep, VPRO and some of the others.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:58 AM   #8959
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Maybe try some Black barcodes.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:04 AM   #8960
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Originally Posted by heinen81 View Post
I am on my third week of running my B5M with a 17.5 setup, at an indoor medium length track that starts out tacky, and after 80+ entries and 6 hours, starts to develop a layer of dust, even when the track is blown off between rounds.After the first week I thought... crap, i ordered the wrong configuration, this Mid motor sucks. On throttle out of the corner, I couldn't keep the rear wheels under me for the life of it.

I also looked at the brass pieces and thought "well thats dumb, because if the track is tacky to start, you have to pull everything apart to switch hangers back and forth as the track changes" I actually put the 30* block in front to assist in steering, and drilled and tapped the rear shock tower for a 4mm screw, and made a block of weight to add as the night wore on and the track went away. Car stuck like glue, no more feathering throttle and ddrs punch is back at 90%. night and day difference. The only other thing i did to make it work, was i also ran Sticky Kicks Red. Traction is no longer an issue.
Our tracks sound very similar... Let me just say I have no brass anywhere on my car and I don't need it even when the track dries out.

The majority of it is tires and just about the only tire I run there is Clay Electrons bc they are even better when the track dries out but if they become to slick I will switch to m4 electrons and try putting your shocks all the way in on the rear shock tower, run 0 ball stud washer on the rear camber block and if you run the aluminum hubs run them in the back inside hole(closest to the etching) with a 1 mm ball stud washer (which is supposed to be comparable to the B in the down position on the stock hubs) and you can also try running a green rear spring but you really shouldn't need weight in these cars unless your running on a low bite track.

Also do you have the b5r rear arms on?
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:44 AM   #8961
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thanks! thanks to your prior advice, I did move the shocks in to inner hole, moved rear bearing hubs forward, however stayed with the B5M arms to this point. Other than experiment with tires,i am afraid to structurally change anything else... she sticks good now! lol
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:52 AM   #8962
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thanks! thanks to your prior advice, I did move the shocks in to inner hole, moved rear bearing hubs forward, however stayed with the B5M arms to this point. Other than experiment with tires,i am afraid to structurally change anything else... she sticks good now! lol
Ya you're welcome! I love the shocks in the inner hole it was probably the single best change I ever made to my car gave me a lot more side bite! Also I would say that for the track you an I run on the b5r rear arms are a must! So when you get a chance deff pick some up and if they have to much grip in the middle position you can always move them all the way back and you'll still be +1 from the b5M rear arms.
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:44 PM   #8963
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does anyone know which way to install the aluminum rear ballstud mount for stock setting, either -2 or +2 ?
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:47 PM   #8964
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+2 is same as stock with 2mm
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:58 PM   #8965
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Quote:
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does anyone know which way to install the aluminum rear ballstud mount for stock setting, either -2 or +2 ?
the popular way is -2mm with 2-3mm of washers.
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:21 PM   #8966
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the popular way is -2mm with 2-3mm of washers.
Kool, thanks
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:39 PM   #8967
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Kool, thanks
6 guys are gonna say -2 and 6 guys are gonna say +2.
All depends on your track
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:10 PM   #8968
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Added some new hopups from Boom Racing...Check out the colors in the drop down box,

Boom Racing:
Aluminum Rear Arms
Aluminum Front Arms (Flat)
Aluminum Front C-Hubs
Alluminum Rear Hubs
Aluminum Front Shock Tower (Flat Arms)
Aluminum Front Steering Knuckles

Last edited by RCBuddha; 11-07-2014 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:28 AM   #8969
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rofl
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Old 11-07-2014, 08:11 AM   #8970
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rofl
Yes I must agree...
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