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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:57 AM   #8716
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I removed the 1mm nub off the bell cranks between the rack and bell crank. Basically moving the rack up 1mm. Seem to do the same thing just do not over tighten the screws. I run on carpet off-road with non moving track dividers. Cutting more off the steering block seemed like it would create a break point for me.
that is my exact plan... work out getting the steering rack moved up 1mm instead of removing material from the steering block.
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:58 AM   #8717
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All depends on type of track and surface... I run high bite clay so usually have the smaller pad in back and larger in front... If im running on low bite ill put all the way to back position
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #8718
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What would be the best battery to run in this buggy? A shorty or a square pack? I'm trying to gather up all the parts needed to complete the kit the misses bought me for Christmas.... To me it looks like both are used in this buggy but I could be way wrong... and I just dont know...

thanks
The 2 different batteries serve 2 different purposes.

If you're running 17.5, then most go with shorty packs for weight concerns.

With mod buggy, the weight of a square/saddle pack can help keep with traction when putting more power down.

You could also just run the shorty with weight placed where you want it too.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:19 AM   #8719
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The 2 different batteries serve 2 different purposes.

If you're running 17.5, then most go with shorty packs for weight concerns.

With mod buggy, the weight of a square/saddle pack can help keep with traction when putting more power down.

You could also just run the shorty with weight placed where you want it too.
Thats exactly what i do.... Outdoor season i still run shortys with the brass mounts for better traction
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:52 PM   #8720
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Can anyone confirm if the rear sway bar meant to be slightly loose across the back section? After installing with grubs and screws it's still got a significant amount of play compared to the b4.2 and b44.2 which has none whatsoever.

Also is there an optimal length for the turnbuckle?

Seems odd it comes with no instructions...
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:53 PM   #8721
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I have always liked Hot Racing parts. They look great and I may get a few of these upgrades for my B5M.

What I want to know is why are the various aftermarket parts guys making mostly copies of the stock parts. The rear hubs have carbon tabs that require the use of the stock inserts. Please make flat tabs like the B4.2/B44 use or change the design of the ball stud. The inserts are not as durable. That goes for the steering knucke too. Could you make 2,3, and 4 degree parts that don't use the inserts? That would eliminate the play that is bound to happen over time.
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:49 PM   #8722
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Can anyone confirm if the rear sway bar meant to be slightly loose across the back section? After installing with grubs and screws it's still got a significant amount of play compared to the b4.2 and b44.2 which has none whatsoever.

Also is there an optimal length for the turnbuckle?

Seems odd it comes with no instructions...
Indeed I have the kit as well but it's very much "deal with it"...
Can't help you much with the length I made it so that it's just 1/4" over the turnbuckles so about 1inch1/2 center to center if it can help.
When you screw the grub screws in the plastic "retainer" you must push it slightly so that it taps (or rather screws itself) a little bit in the shock tower otherwise it just pushes the retainer and doesn't close the gap between the grub and the bar.
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:40 PM   #8723
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Indeed I have the kit as well but it's very much "deal with it"...
Can't help you much with the length I made it so that it's just 1/4" over the turnbuckles so about 1inch1/2 center to center if it can help.
When you screw the grub screws in the plastic "retainer" you must push it slightly so that it taps (or rather screws itself) a little bit in the shock tower otherwise it just pushes the retainer and doesn't close the gap between the grub and the bar.
Thanks. I've done exactly the same. I know what you mean about having to press in the retainer. .

Seems like quite a bit of effort has gone into the design when a simple screw and washer would be more effective. The mind boggles. Would be interesting to hear from the engineers on this one.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:01 PM   #8724
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Question guys... When turning your rear tires freely should both tires spin in the same direction or opposite. Trying to figure out how tight my diff needs to be...
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:13 PM   #8725
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Question guys... When turning your rear tires freely should both tires spin in the same direction or opposite. Trying to figure out how tight my diff needs to be...
That is a hard way to check it. They should turn opposite directions but it depends on the motor you are running an the magnet bump it has. (If it can hold the spur gear) normal setting is as per the kit instructions and should get the diff tight enough to not slip.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:17 PM   #8726
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Running 17.5 reedy. When i spin the tires the both spin the same way. On my mod buggy with a 10.5 they spin in opposite directions. I have both diffs pretty tight. Was just wondering why one spun the same and other was different
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:34 PM   #8727
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Motor rotor magnet and gearing is causing it. Not to worry either way.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:59 PM   #8728
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Running 17.5 reedy. When i spin the tires the both spin the same way. On my mod buggy with a 10.5 they spin in opposite directions. I have both diffs pretty tight. Was just wondering why one spun the same and other was different
If you hold the spur, they should spin in opposite directions, but the 17.5 doesn't have enough "cog" so it spins before the diff.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:53 PM   #8729
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Thanks for all the info
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:25 PM   #8730
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My reedy 17.5 spins tires in opposite direction when checking diff...sounds like there's more to it than that. ..
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