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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #8656
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Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?

Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
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I read about an o-ring, but the steering rack ballstud is the one hitting the case
Did you remove the spacer under the ballstud on the servo horn?
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:07 AM   #8657
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What length sensor wire does everyone use? Im running an orion R10 and Id like to run the wire under the battery and under the motor. The wire I have now is a touch too long ad I have a lot of slack at the motor side of it.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:15 AM   #8658
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I would go ko rsx one10 (the original w product number ending in "****04") or either of the new bsx2 low pro's
+1 the one10 is such an amazing servo!
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:27 AM   #8659
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Looking at the drawing for the 1268, it looks pretty beefy. Maybe the high torque servos are a little on the large size for this car, but not sure. The high speeds seem a little sleeker. I'm guessing that's what most folks run.

I run the stock plastic horn and don't see a need for aluminum. A suspension arm will rip off the car before steering components fail.
I think the Savox 1268 or Hitec 7955 is a little overkill on a 2wd buggy. I run the Savox 1257 in mine, it's tight but fits just fine, works excellent too.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:33 AM   #8660
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I think the Savox 1268 or Hitec 7955 is a little overkill on a 2wd buggy. I run the Savox 1257 in mine, it's tight but fits just fine, works excellent too.
I agree they are not as fast as I think you want and way overkill on the torque, but I have a few from 8th scales and was trying to get away with it while testing my hand at 10th
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:24 AM   #8661
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in short.... RM is better overall.
Oh really? Beings the mid works real well outdoors (even on non sugared) and it speaks for itself indoors, you are totally leading people astray with what you just said. That is a total "your opinion only" comment for sure, not the general consensus of everyone.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:32 AM   #8662
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Oh really? Beings the mid works real well outdoors (even on non sugared) and it speaks for itself indoors, you are totally leading people astray with what you just said. That is a total "your opinion only" comment for sure, not the general consensus of everyone.
I have raced mid and rear motor. I like rear motor better. I think people can make either one work just depends on your driving style. I really like the mid setup it just don't work for how I drive.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:46 AM   #8663
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Both are great
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:05 AM   #8664
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Oh really? Beings the mid works real well outdoors (even on non sugared) and it speaks for itself indoors, you are totally leading people astray with what you just said. That is a total "your opinion only" comment for sure, not the general consensus of everyone.
Well of course it is my opinion. His question will only get opinions. That is like asking what motor is "best", all you will ever get is opinions. I have both cars. I rarely use my RM car since I only race high bite indoors. But when I goto lower bite tracks, it is much "easier" to get the RM car going. If you have a boat load of tires, pistons, brass weights and you want to sit there tuning all day, I am sure you can make the MM work for you. But, if i am going to show up, having never been on the outdoor track and I am looking to get 1-2 packs at most of practice, the RM car IN MY OPINION is easiest to set and go. I have seen so many guys struggle day in and day out for months trying to get MM "right" outdoors. The problem here is perception. How do you perceive loose? I used to think I was racing on medium bite tracks. Because they were way more traction than the outdoor texas tracks I raced on. I had always used studs and step pins. I came to AZ and guys were on holeshots and 3d's. So I figured that was medium bite. Then I went indoor and raced race on m4 suburbs, thinking that was high bite. That was my experience and my perception. Then I was told by california guys that that our indoor track was low to medium bite. I thought they might be a little looney. Then I went and raced at warehouse 3 and was like WTF, this must be mega traction. lol. Now I race at SRS and i have to re-evaluate my scale. We can pull wheelies everywhere. There is no line with tons of traction. The traction is the entire width of the track. So what you think is low bite or high bite is your perception. I see videos all the time of guys saying "This is me racing on our lowbite track". I watch the video and laugh because I can see the rubber groove going around the track. I dont see any rooster tails. And if the traction is low, I can see the driver checking up everywhere. It is all opinions and perception, when it comes to the "best".
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:34 PM   #8665
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Ok so indoor season is upon us, I looking to buy a c4.2 or a 5m. The problem is that I may not have enough funds for a 5m and the c4.2 are dirt cheap. It is worth saving up and get a 5m? How much better were your lap times? All help is welcomed.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:55 PM   #8666
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Ok so indoor season is upon us, I looking to buy a c4.2 or a 5m. The problem is that I may not have enough funds for a 5m and the c4.2 are dirt cheap. It is worth saving up and get a 5m? How much better were your lap times? All help is welcomed.
get a used 5m. They can be had really cheap with almost no run time. I have seen almost brand new ones going for $170.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:28 PM   #8667
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I agree they are not as fast as I think you want and way overkill on the torque, but I have a few from 8th scales and was trying to get away with it while testing my hand at 10th
That's kinda what I figured. I woulda probably done the same....lol If your not gonna run 1/8 anymore, I'd probably look to sell the servos you have then get one that will work better in your new car. IMO, those are gonna be a little on the slow side for 1/10th scale.
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:51 PM   #8668
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Default RM or MM

Thanks for the replies and input regarding the RM and MM.
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:13 PM   #8669
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Oh really? Beings the mid works real well outdoors (even on non sugared) and it speaks for itself indoors, you are totally leading people astray with what you just said. That is a total "your opinion only" comment for sure, not the general consensus of everyone.
your exactly right, its Wildcats opinion - clearly! It might be a fact for him but its just an opinion for everyone else and we appreciate his thoughts.

Even if he had one the world titles with a RM 20 times over its still only his opinion.

Clearly i'm being very sexist by assuming Wildcat is a he
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Old 10-22-2014, 04:09 PM   #8670
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your exactly right, its Wildcats opinion - clearly! It might be a fact for him but its just an opinion for everyone else and we appreciate his thoughts.

Even if he had one the world titles with a RM 20 times over its still only his opinion.

Clearly i'm being very sexist by assuming Wildcat is a he
isnt your avatar RM And it is your "opinion" that MM is best everywhere....What is it they say about opinions...that are like A-Holes everyone has one...
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