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Old 10-21-2014, 03:41 PM   #8641
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Just remember that the slipper needs to always slip before you diff. So if you go loose on the diff, you might have to back off your slipper a bit.
You diff shouldn't slip regardless of where you set your slipper. If your diff is slipping, your diff is too loose, period. It shouldn't slip even if running an eliminator.
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:51 PM   #8642
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You diff shouldn't slip regardless of where you set your slipper. If your diff is slipping, your diff is too loose, period. It shouldn't slip even if running an eliminator.
sure, but that will be a tight diff. I see where your coming from, but if you want to run a looser diff, you will need to loosen the slipper. otherwise there is not really any diff tuning. just lock it down and go. and yes, I spend a lot of time breaking in my diff and checking the settings. my diff is as tight as it can be without getting gritty, but it will still slip if the slipper is not correct. I could make it tighter, but it would be gritty as all get out and it would pretty much be full tight.I like my diff to be butter smooth at the hexes.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:34 PM   #8643
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your balls are shot my diff is tight and it is still smooth if your tighting your diff down and your balls are griddy theirs something wrong
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:45 PM   #8644
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your balls are shot my diff is tight and it is still smooth if your tighting your diff down and your balls are griddy theirs something wrong
I will show you mine if you show me yours Haha. you might be correct. my experience has been that going extremely tight makes any diff feel notchy. Now you might feel my diff and say that is fine, but I might disagree. I understand the premise. you break the rings in so that a valley forms about the surface of the ball. this gives more contact area allowing for you to have a diff not slip, with less diff spring tension. My diff is currently very tight and if I give it any more, even 1/32 of a turn it quadruples in grittiness. I have it as tight as I plan to go, but it will still slip on my local track with a mod motor and a slipper that is too tight. I back flipped my car from 1/2 to full throttle on the straight with a 10.5, we have a lot of traction.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:19 PM   #8645
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Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?

Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:31 PM   #8646
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Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?

Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
try an oring on the servo arm ballstud. this keeps it from twisting.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:47 PM   #8647
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try an oring on the servo arm ballstud. this keeps it from twisting.
I read about an o-ring, but the steering rack ballstud is the one hitting the case
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:54 PM   #8648
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I read about an o-ring, but the steering rack ballstud is the one hitting the case
I have a hitec 8360 and it fits fine, but.... I am using a TLR plastic horn. it might have more kick back
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:59 PM   #8649
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So went back to mm on an outdoor track again... Had bad luck and gave up too quick last time!!! Had great results today... Moved rear hubs all the way forward and used b5r arms front and back. This thing stuck all the way around the track like glue... Problem im having is the two middle doubles i cant get enough speed and have to hit it just right to clear them. Running 72-33 but not enough speed. Running that same gearing in my rear motor i could clear the doubles with ease!! Any suggestions?? A friend suggested going down on the spur to 69 and pinion to 34ish. If i went down on spur wouldnt i lose more top end yet?? I know the mm is alot heavier but it seems like a dog compared the the rm!!! Im torn between the two!! Any suggested on the 69/72 spurs?? Thanks guys and hope i can figure this out... By the way running reedy 17.5 blinky mode gen2 esc... Large outdoor 1/8 scale size track with multiple doubles and a triple.
Posted the same question in the RM thread.

Is either car the better "all-around" kit? From outdoor to indoor, high bite to low bite - is the MM better suited to changing conditons or is the RM?

If you could only have one, which one would you choose?

Thanks guys.
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:18 PM   #8650
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Posted the same question in the RM thread.

Is either car the better "all-around" kit? From outdoor to indoor, high bite to low bite - is the MM better suited to changing conditons or is the RM?

If you could only have one, which one would you choose?

Thanks guys.
in short.... RM is better overall.
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:59 PM   #8651
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no way give me mid
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:08 PM   #8652
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Talking diffs, I clean mine out and reassembly either every week or every other. I race a clean indoor track twice a week, with maybe a practice day in there. About 15-20 packs a week. Diffs need cleaned out quite often to remain smooth. I'll flip the rings around when one side grooves up and is not smooth and will replace as needed. Rings are cheap. A smooth diff is very important and mine is always that, even when tight.

Smooth shocks and diffs are your friend.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:19 PM   #8653
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Originally Posted by ironzgti35 View Post
Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?

Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
Looking at the drawing for the 1268, it looks pretty beefy. Maybe the high torque servos are a little on the large size for this car, but not sure. The high speeds seem a little sleeker. I'm guessing that's what most folks run.

I run the stock plastic horn and don't see a need for aluminum. A suspension arm will rip off the car before steering components fail.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:45 PM   #8654
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I'll probably be grabbing a new servo this week or next. Looking at the low pro Orion Vortex or a Futaba low pro.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:11 PM   #8655
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I'll probably be grabbing a new servo this week or next. Looking at the low pro Orion Vortex or a Futaba low pro.
I would go ko rsx one10 (the original w product number ending in "****04") or either of the new bsx2 low pro's
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