Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#8641
your balls are shot my diff is tight and it is still smooth if your tighting your diff down and your balls are griddy theirs something wrong
#8642
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I will show you mine if you show me yours Haha. you might be correct. my experience has been that going extremely tight makes any diff feel notchy. Now you might feel my diff and say that is fine, but I might disagree. I understand the premise. you break the rings in so that a valley forms about the surface of the ball. this gives more contact area allowing for you to have a diff not slip, with less diff spring tension. My diff is currently very tight and if I give it any more, even 1/32 of a turn it quadruples in grittiness. I have it as tight as I plan to go, but it will still slip on my local track with a mod motor and a slipper that is too tight. I back flipped my car from 1/2 to full throttle on the straight with a 10.5, we have a lot of traction.
#8643
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
#8644
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
#8647
So went back to mm on an outdoor track again... Had bad luck and gave up too quick last time!!! Had great results today... Moved rear hubs all the way forward and used b5r arms front and back. This thing stuck all the way around the track like glue... Problem im having is the two middle doubles i cant get enough speed and have to hit it just right to clear them. Running 72-33 but not enough speed. Running that same gearing in my rear motor i could clear the doubles with ease!! Any suggestions?? A friend suggested going down on the spur to 69 and pinion to 34ish. If i went down on spur wouldnt i lose more top end yet?? I know the mm is alot heavier but it seems like a dog compared the the rm!!! Im torn between the two!! Any suggested on the 69/72 spurs?? Thanks guys and hope i can figure this out... By the way running reedy 17.5 blinky mode gen2 esc... Large outdoor 1/8 scale size track with multiple doubles and a triple.
Is either car the better "all-around" kit? From outdoor to indoor, high bite to low bite - is the MM better suited to changing conditons or is the RM?
If you could only have one, which one would you choose?
Thanks guys.
#8650
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Talking diffs, I clean mine out and reassembly either every week or every other. I race a clean indoor track twice a week, with maybe a practice day in there. About 15-20 packs a week. Diffs need cleaned out quite often to remain smooth. I'll flip the rings around when one side grooves up and is not smooth and will replace as needed. Rings are cheap. A smooth diff is very important and mine is always that, even when tight.
Smooth shocks and diffs are your friend.
Smooth shocks and diffs are your friend.
#8651
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
I run the stock plastic horn and don't see a need for aluminum. A suspension arm will rip off the car before steering components fail.
#8654
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Servo issues - I tried mounting a Savox 1268 and a Hitec 7955 and both are problems. The servo link is hitting the case before the rack is anywhere near full throw. I have no spacers on the servo itself and the ballstud is almost touching the case, no way the link would fit on. What am I missing here?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?
Also, most pictures I've seen show the stock plastic horn, why not aluminum horns on this car?