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Old 10-21-2014, 12:47 AM   #8626
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is anyone on here running the chassis set-up with the battery longways and if so what differences did you notice?
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:46 AM   #8627
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Default 1 mm shim at servo arm

I had to take this shim off to keep the servo link from hitting the case of the servo. It was not allowing me to get full travel to the left. Servo is Spektrum 6040. Is this going to mess something else up?
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:12 AM   #8628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I am running 1.6 f/r with 32.5/30 oils
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepy2013 View Post
same here
I will give something similar a shot.

Thank you,

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Old 10-21-2014, 05:46 AM   #8629
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Originally Posted by samnelso View Post
It's installed in the correct orientation. The t-nut should be pretty much bottomed out. Here's how I check for a proper diff setting. Others may have a different approach.

1. Compress spring with pliers, then assembly diff
2. tighten diff screw until nut pretty much bottoms out. I assembly the diff on the bench, but set it in the car.
3. install in car.
4. put tires on
5. take a tire in each hand and rotate them in opposite directions in a quick motion and let go simultaneously with both hands. I aim for about a 1/2 diff rotation after I let go.
6. adjust screw until you achieve this. Unscrewing the passenger inner camber link ball stud and keeping it on by just a few threads until the diff is set allows for a convenient way to access the diff screw.
7. set the rings by holding a tire and running the motor at about 10% throttle for 30sec. Then hold the other tire and repeat.
8. Diff will loosen up a bit, so tighten until about a 1/2 rotation spinning by hand is achieved
9. run on track a few minutes, check and tighten as needed.
Much appreciated, I should be able to put it on the track for some practice this weekend if my motor/esc show up.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:39 AM   #8630
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Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
I had to take this shim off to keep the servo link from hitting the case of the servo. It was not allowing me to get full travel to the left. Servo is Spektrum 6040. Is this going to mess something else up?
Don't know if it will mess anything up... I did the same, and also removed the 1mm spacer on the servo to keep the linkage straight.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:28 AM   #8631
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So I moved my hubs back (longest wheel base), softer front shock oil, 2lminters all the way around.

If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?

I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:32 AM   #8632
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
So I moved my hubs back (longest wheel base), softer front shock oil, 2lminters all the way around.

If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?

I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
where are you wanting more steering? on entry or exit? on power or off?
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:34 AM   #8633
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Probably more on power.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:28 AM   #8634
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you could try 3 limiters in the front, stiffer rear spring, heavier oil in the rear shocks or the offset bushings
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:33 AM   #8635
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This diff rebuild I just built is on the tight side, that would give me more steering right?

Or is it the opposite?
Looser=more steering
or
Looser=less steering
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:51 AM   #8636
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
This diff rebuild I just built is on the tight side, that would give me more steering right?

Or is it the opposite?
Looser=more steering
or
Looser=less steering
So let us assume the diff is not slipping. As looser diff should be able to generate more steering. So much so that you can "diff out". This can cause the car to violently whip around. Where as a very tight, lets call it posi traction diff will steer less, because the outside wheel is not really wanting to come around. It is basically being dragged around. In mod, guys run a righter diff, partly to prevent slipping of the diff on high bite. I set my diff to the "right" amount, no diff slipping and not locked up. Just remember that the slipper needs to always slip before you diff. So if you go loose on the diff, you might have to back off your slipper a bit.

Someone posted this a while back. it is long but educational and entertaining.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:44 PM   #8637
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
This diff rebuild I just built is on the tight side, that would give me more steering right?

Or is it the opposite?
Looser=more steering
or
Looser=less steering
I've found that the B5M likes a looser setting, about 1/2 to 3/4 turn out rather then 1/4 like the RM cars. Stock racing is different, but in mod a looser diff will allow you to get on the power closer to the exit of the turn without getting squirrelly. A tighter diff with help the car "square up" better in tight turns, especially if there is a big double or triple right after a 180.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:47 PM   #8638
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Originally Posted by evolution03 View Post
thanks for pointing that out to me. I am looking at their pad tuning guide for the slipper and I'm not really getting what they are talking about with bias. What are they talking about ?
The pad tuning helps tune the slip amount by varying the number of plates touching red pad (fast engage) or white pad (slow smooth engagement) material. The kit setting is 2 plates white, and 2 plates touching red pads. The 2nd drive plate touches a pad on both sides so there are 4 drive surfaces in the clutch.

To go smoother on the clutch engagement, you change to white-red-white which is 3 white pad surfaces, 1 red. To go to a fast engaging setup, go white--red-red which is 3 red surfaces, 1 white.

Hope this explanation helps.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:57 PM   #8639
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So with a "locked out" slipper, how would you guys suggest running the diff?

Just standard?
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:39 PM   #8640
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So I moved my hubs back (longest wheel base), softer front shock oil, 2lminters all the way around.

If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?

I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
You are trying to solve a tire problem, with a setup change. You will be fighting forever.

If it is a damp tacky slick track... slicks will be the only thing that is going to work. You are going to want to run slicks in the front, with the firmest insert you can fine that fills the tire. Then raise your roll center front and back as much as you can, and probably lower the car a few mm (maybe 21 front, 20 rear).
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