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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:17 PM   #8566
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I just got all my electronics for my B5M, can some one please post a pic or PM me a pic of your chassis?? There doesn't seem to be much room and I'm not sure how to mount everything. Thanks
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:25 PM   #8567
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has anyone had any experience with certified 17.5 motors from trinity, are they really worth the extra cost or will the D4 be just fine.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:46 PM   #8568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
I just got all my electronics for my B5M, can some one please post a pic or PM me a pic of your chassis?? There doesn't seem to be much room and I'm not sure how to mount everything. Thanks
There are many pictures that have been posted. Just skim back a couple pages and you will find many different layouts. You can also check the first page for some ideas too.

That being said, often times people have to dremel either part of the chassis or part of the electronics to have them fit in the designated area. You can always mount them in the battery tray area if you run a shorty.

Here is my set-up for reference. It is pretty standard as per the manual. I had to dremel a small notch out of my receiver to make it fit.



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Old 10-19-2014, 08:13 PM   #8569
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
I just got all my electronics for my B5M, can some one please post a pic or PM me a pic of your chassis?? There doesn't seem to be much room and I'm not sure how to mount everything. Thanks
here's mine, same way I mounted them in the original chassis just trying this one out.

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Old 10-19-2014, 08:15 PM   #8570
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I've got two videos on the first page that can resolve the issue. Try the "squeeze" method first.
Thanks HobbyTen, TheCman and RCBuddha! If screwing them on wasn't painful enough!
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:17 PM   #8571
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has anyone had any experience with certified 17.5 motors from trinity, are they really worth the extra cost or will the D4 be just fine.
If you have the money to go that way, take a look at the Fantom Ion V5, Pro.
They are RIDICULOUS!

http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...prod=FAN27847W
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:17 PM   #8572
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Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
There are many pictures that have been posted. Just skim back a couple pages and you will find many different layouts. You can also check the first page for some ideas too.

That being said, often times people have to dremel either part of the chassis or part of the electronics to have them fit in the designated area. You can always mount them in the battery tray area if you run a shorty.

Here is my set-up for reference. It is pretty standard as per the manual. I had to dremel a small notch out of my receiver to make it fit.



nice work
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:27 AM   #8573
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Great pics, thanks guys. This is very helpful for me.
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:55 AM   #8574
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Anyone have insight on bodies? Or is it all just blowing smoke?

I've seen both the Finisher and the Silencer listed for high speed circuits.
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:27 AM   #8575
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Anyone running a triad resurface the pads? I had 3 whites in my setup and they glazed up, can I sand them, or do they need to be replaced?
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:39 AM   #8576
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you can sand them. I would suggest you run 1 red and 2 whites though
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:47 AM   #8577
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Excluding the 8 missing screws including the slipper spring and nut I've finished putting together the b5m. Problem is the ball cups are so stiff the arms are locked in place, well not locked but don't move freely.

Any tips? Is this normal?
You can take a few easy laps and let everything wear in, or try polishing the ball studs.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:27 AM   #8578
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Anyone have any suggestions for me to try on a damp/tacky/slippery indoor clay track?

Everyone seems to run slicks or typos depending on how wet/dry the clay is.

I would like to get a little more grip out of the steering. The slicks push pretty hard.

I am running mod with B5R front arms and tower and B5R rear arms. My shock springs and oil are stock. I am not running slicks in the front.

Here is a pic of the track. I will try anything, i am just having fun



Thanks!

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Old 10-20-2014, 08:03 AM   #8579
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
Anyone have any suggestions for me to try on a damp/tacky/slippery indoor clay track?

Everyone seems to run slicks or typos depending on how wet/dry the clay is.

I would like to get a little more grip out of the steering. The slicks push pretty hard.

I am running mod with B5R front arms and tower and B5R rear arms. My shock springs and oil are stock. I am not running slicks in the front.

Here is a pic of the track. I will try anything, i am just having fun



Thanks!

jB
why are you not running slicks in the front too? I would imagine that would solve your problem.
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:05 AM   #8580
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+1 keep your tires matched unless something is terribly wrong. Slicks front and rear IMO. Dont mix tires of vastly different wear level. It is about contact patch. If slicks work in the rear, then slicks in the front. We run on a water indoor clay track. We also run slicks. Any tire with tread will have less bite, because it has less contact patch.
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