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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:39 AM   #8551
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Default x-ring install

Bought some x-rings. On first shock, rings very difficult to start, had to use shock shaft as guide. With bottom cap barely screwed on it feels like i have 80 weight oil in it, not a drop of oil in it. the tighter the cap the the worse it get gets. This can' be normal??
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:18 AM   #8552
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Default x-ring install

They gave me the 13 mm ones.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:19 AM   #8553
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Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
Bought some x-rings. On first shock, rings very difficult to start, had to use shock shaft as guide. With bottom cap barely screwed on it feels like i have 80 weight oil in it, not a drop of oil in it. the tighter the cap the the worse it get gets. This can' be normal??
did you lube or green slim the orings? loosen the blue cap that keeps the orings in.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:46 AM   #8554
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Green slime!!!!
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:28 AM   #8555
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Default discovery

I had mentioned before that it was taking twice as much preload on one rear rear shock verses the other to get "bones level". One of the shocks has lots of resistance once the shock is assembled and before oil goes in. I have taken it apart and put back together many times, I am not fixing it. My 15 year old dremel no longer works. Guess I will polish shafts first. I don't have much support equipment. Ordered 2.5 wench instead of 2.0. Using the L wrenches with arthritis is no fun. Broke off neg. wire from bat to ESC. Can't even try to make Hotwire work. Did I mention I don't have much support equipment.
Thanks for reading my
I feel a little bit better.
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:57 AM   #8556
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Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
They gave me the 13 mm ones.
There's your problem. Those are the x-rings for the sc10 4x4, which uses 13mm body shocks. The B5m uses 12mm body shocks.
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:27 PM   #8557
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Originally Posted by AlmostIllegal View Post
They are for different brand servos.
I saw that in the manual but what is the actual technical difference as they all appear the same?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:35 PM   #8558
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Originally Posted by will5879 View Post
Disregard the numbers. You have short, medium, and long. You will only use the medium (5mm) ones.
So on the recent Jeremy Harris setup used 3.5mm offset cups up front, and the normal 5mm in the rear. is the offset literally just inside the cup, how much it is allowed to go up in relation to where the spring is? Also there are similarly numbered cups with completely different spring offsets. Like a 3mm high spring offset, and 3mm low spring offset. Is this differentiated within setup sheets?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #8559
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When/how does body style come into play in tuning?

I hear a lot of different things about different bodies performing differently but only run stock myself.

When should I be looking at something like the JConcepts Silencer or Finisher or ProLine Phantom to improve some area of performance?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:41 PM   #8560
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Originally Posted by Cpt.Americat.Americat.America View Post
Changing out bearings that go bad, making cuts to plastic to fit electronics, or changing pistons, are all things that everybody does to EVERY single car out there as they wear, or as setup requirements change for the track.

Literally NOTHING on the car "has" to be replaced (or cut) for it to be completely competitive right out of the box. This is easily the most bang-for-the-buck race kit I have ever built... and I have raced most of them. Cmon, "mate".
Excluding the 8 missing screws including the slipper spring and nut I've finished putting together the b5m. Problem is the ball cups are so stiff the arms are locked in place, well not locked but don't move freely.

Any tips? Is this normal?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:57 PM   #8561
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Excluding the 8 missing screws including the slipper spring and nut I've finished putting together the b5m. Problem is the ball cups are so stiff the arms are locked in place, well not locked but don't move freely.

Any tips? Is this normal?
They loosen up real quick. I had one front arm that wouldn't return after the build. After first run it worked great
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:59 PM   #8562
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Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
I saw that in the manual but what is the actual technical difference as they all appear the same?
It's all about the spline count on the output shaft.

J-23
H-24
F-25
A-23 I think
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:04 PM   #8563
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Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
Excluding the 8 missing screws including the slipper spring and nut I've finished putting together the b5m. Problem is the ball cups are so stiff the arms are locked in place, well not locked but don't move freely.

Any tips? Is this normal?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cH22wIvDMTg
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:53 PM   #8564
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Originally Posted by Nemaris View Post
So on the recent Jeremy Harris setup used 3.5mm offset cups up front, and the normal 5mm in the rear. is the offset literally just inside the cup, how much it is allowed to go up in relation to where the spring is? Also there are similarly numbered cups with completely different spring offsets. Like a 3mm high spring offset, and 3mm low spring offset. Is this differentiated within setup sheets?
There are only 3 sizes of spring cups. 0,5,9 offsets. THEY ARE NOT MARKED ON THE CUPS. The numbers on the cups are mold numbers(they appear on most all plastic AE parts)

Cup offsets isn't a tuning aid in any way shape or form. Just use the 5 (middle size on the front and rear of all buggies. The 9's are for the front and rear of all trucks. The 0's are useless unless you're using another brand of spring that a lot longer than AE.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:56 PM   #8565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
Excluding the 8 missing screws including the slipper spring and nut I've finished putting together the b5m. Problem is the ball cups are so stiff the arms are locked in place, well not locked but don't move freely.

Any tips? Is this normal?
I've got two videos on the first page that can resolve the issue. Try the "squeeze" method first.
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