Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#8536
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
I'm not questioning your diff building or break-in skills. I just know that if you start out with an even, consistent surface, everything is better. Stock diff rings are punched out of a sheet of metal on a punch press and distortion is inevitable. The first time I held a set of B-Fast diff rings in my hand, I said "Nice".
#8538
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Razz I applaud you for your deligence in making your rings smoother if it works for you cool.
I just dont think its neccesary to do all that work just to do it over when it feels gritty again.
I race stock what do I know
#8541
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
#8542
Well building my second b5 I noticed the outdrives having a charcoal color to them. I can scratch it off. Could ruin my diff? If it was to flake off and make it all gritty? Really wanna run tomorrow.
#8543
Well building my second b5 I noticed the outdrives having a charcoal color to them. I can scratch it off. Could ruin my diff? If it was to flake off and make it all gritty? Really wanna run tomorrow.
#8544
how much lighter are the alumium screws to the steel ones?
#8545
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
I saw your pic on FB. Take some scotch brite or steel wool to them. This should buy you a couple race days of clean running. If they weren't properly oxidized/treated they could wear out or rust fairly quickly, but once you scrub off the poor finish you won't jeopardize the rest of the diff.
#8547
#8549
I don't know if they changed their manufacturing process since I started doing this, but it definitely helped the diff be smoother from the beginning on my B44.2.
#8550
I agree with Matt, break in is key! I never used to put much effort or thought into it, and just figured everyone's diff's got gritty after a few days. Then I started putting in the time to do a proper break in..The result is a diff that can last a couple months or more.
I bought a cheap dog bone that fit into all my 1/10 diffs, then I cut it in half so I can put the other end in the collet of my dremel.
This allows me to do a pre break in so I can have multiple diffs, and if one goes out I have one broken in ready to go. No sweat!
I first get the diff together using caged bearings from avid, or casper has nice ones too. Then I build the diff normally until I get to the part where you tighten the diff down all the way and back off. Instead of just tightening it down all the way which can cause flat spotted balls, I gradually tighten the diff spinning it for 30-40 seconds with the dremel with each 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the diff screw.
I hold the gear while doing all of this obviously, make sure you use the lowest speed possible that will turn the opposite outdrive. Also make sure that you get your diff tight enough to not slip by hand before starting this process.
I believe this will also work with a non impact drill that uses the standard chuck.