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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:47 AM   #8461
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I have been running my 17.5 B5M on a smooth, hard packed clay surface that has performed well early in the day for qualifiers. As the day progresses and the track starts to dry and develop a light dust coating (even if the track is blown off) the car starts to get real loose, which i understand should be somewhat normal for the MM. I am running Barcode Golds front and rear, and am wondering if i should go to a pin style or Goosebump type tire once the track starts to dry off... does anyone have suggestions on set up for the BM5 on a dry track? I also have turned the punch down before the main, as well as run the slipper flush with the end... however i was told the 17.5 does not have enough torque for the slipper to come into play anyways, and maybe that is true, because after running the whole day and taking it apart to inspect, the pads do not look like they slipped at all. thanks!
Ya no always keep your slipper locked in 17.5. But what you can do is a few things:

First I would go all the way in on the upper rear shock tower, at all times I find this to be best as it gives you more grip.

Two you can go down to a green rear spring which will also give you a little more grip...

Third run 0 ball stud washer on the inner rear camber block.

And last you can go to a super soft tire either bar codes or in my opinion the best are M4 electrons all the way around. But make sure if you go to a super soft that you also put a super soft on the front or your car will push like a dump truck.

Your track sounds just like mine and this is exactly what I do and I get plenty of grip out of mine.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:10 AM   #8462
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Will do! thank you, much appreciated!
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:24 AM   #8463
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So I just bought a B5M from a member here and its my first off road vehicle. I still need a few things before I can race it, batteries are one of those things. The buggy comes with a Hobbywing esc, what kind of batteries should I run in this buggy? Ill be running in the stock class.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:25 AM   #8464
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What?

You think you should always keep your slipper locked in 17.5?
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:27 AM   #8465
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What?

You think you should always keep your slipper locked in 17.5?
I have always set my slipper properly no matter what motor i was running. Never did like the locked feel. If you are running it locked why not just get rid of it altogether and save a bit of weight.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:39 AM   #8466
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What?

You think you should always keep your slipper locked in 17.5?
I guess I should have said really tight but its not like with a 17.5 you can really feel the difference between locked and tight theres not enough power but everyone will tell you different. Why do you think most people run slipper eliminators in stock?
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:40 AM   #8467
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Why do you think most people run slipper eliminators in stock?
They drink the kool-aid.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:41 AM   #8468
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I guess I should have said really tight but its not like with a 17.5 you can really feel the difference between locked and tight theres not enough power but everyone will tell you different. Why do you think most people run slipper eliminators in stock?
not everyone like slipper eliminators. I also set my slipper in 17.5. And if it is too tight or too loose, I can feel it on the track. But I run on very high bite.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:00 PM   #8469
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IMO the drawing looks better than the final product. Also, white is terrible. All the plastic on the car is black...why make a white waterfall.
I think ADI is selling the 3D printer set-up. So for those that purchase this design they have to decide what color and resolution to print.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:01 PM   #8470
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not everyone like slipper eliminators. I also set my slipper in 17.5. And if it is too tight or too loose, I can feel it on the track. But I run on very high bite.
Ya when I ran stock I set my slipper too but on my track I couldn't feel a difference other than I had a little more snap but I don't run stock anymore... Again everyone has a different opinion on locked slipper, tight slipper, or no slipper ect...
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:03 PM   #8471
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I think ADI is selling the 3D printer set-up. So for those that purchase this design they have to decide what color and resolution to print.
selling the design? I saw the product on sale for $15.99.

The ADI B5M Chassis Brace 25mm Fan Mount 3D Print, #10037, is made in-house, from ABS plastic, with our Stratasys 3D printer. Most 25mm fans can be mounted to this 3D printed chassis brace. A 3rd party body must be used to ensure proper clearance of the fan. The stock body will not fit properly without modifications.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:05 PM   #8472
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Will do! thank you, much appreciated!
Your welcome also are you running the b5 rear arms? Bc another thing you can do whether you are or not is push your hubs all the way forward but I don't like doing this bc I loose to much corner speed but it deff gives you more grip but I would do this only after youve tried the other things I told you and you still dont have enough grip.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:12 PM   #8473
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selling the design? I saw the product on sale for $15.99.

The ADI B5M Chassis Brace 25mm Fan Mount 3D Print, #10037, is made in-house, from ABS plastic, with our Stratasys 3D printer. Most 25mm fans can be mounted to this 3D printed chassis brace. A 3rd party body must be used to ensure proper clearance of the fan. The stock body will not fit properly without modifications.
I stand corrected. I did not read the whole item. I was expecting that people would start to sell designs as 3D Print models that you can print yourself.

ADI should consider this!
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:21 PM   #8474
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In regards to the slipper, I was trying to back it off in order to allow a softer "on throttle" power curve, to keep the rear wheels under the car and keep the rear from coming around. No matter where I set it, tight or loose, didn't seem to make a difference. Early in the day when the track is tacky, I will run it on the tight side. As far as the B5R arms, that I have not yet tried, although I did shorten the wheel base by moving both rear washers to the back of the blocks... it may have helped a little in forward bite once the car was straight, but didn't seem to help the "throttle loose" condition off the corner. I am not hammering the throttle either, more of a progressive pull... still seems to unhook fairly east though. I ordered the M4 Electrons, and we'll see how that works next week. Don't want to try too many things at once.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:24 PM   #8475
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In regards to the slipper, I was trying to back it off in order to allow a softer "on throttle" power curve, to keep the rear wheels under the car and keep the rear from coming around. No matter where I set it, tight or loose, didn't seem to make a difference. Early in the day when the track is tacky, I will run it on the tight side. As far as the B5R arms, that I have not yet tried, although I did shorten the wheel base by moving both rear washers to the back of the blocks... it may have helped a little in forward bite once the car was straight, but didn't seem to help the "throttle loose" condition off the corner. I am not hammering the throttle either, more of a progressive pull... still seems to unhook fairly east though. I ordered the M4 Electrons, and we'll see how that works next week. Don't want to try too many things at once.
the stock slipper is trash. Get the Avid EVO Triad. It is so much better.
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