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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-12-2014, 09:25 PM   #8401
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Does anyone agree that practicing with a mod motor and racing with a stock motor will make you a better racer?
I would think your best option would be to practice with the motor you are going to race.
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Old 10-13-2014, 05:53 AM   #8402
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Default I am going to say no...

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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Does anyone agree that practicing with a mod motor and racing with a stock motor will make you a better racer?
I think you will find that your brake points and how hard you push through the turns in stock is a completely different driving style than how you drive a mod more point and shoot. You can't afford to scrub any speed in a stock vs mod you can brake pivot and jam the throttle off the corners...

Plus you most often leverage way less brake in stock due to the speeds the car is going into the corners. I think it would be good to practice mod to continue to gain more experience in general as it will sharpen you as a whole, but if I were running stock again.. I would be out practicing a lot with the setup I was planning on racing.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:24 AM   #8403
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Question, what difference does a tapered verses standard shock piston do as far as car handling?
Hope you don't mind me asking again.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:29 AM   #8404
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I couldn't remember either so i googled it.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...tons-shock.jpg
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:29 AM   #8405
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different rebound and compression. taper down should mean that the piston rebounds quicker than it compresses.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:34 AM   #8406
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I didn't get any good hits.. was there a find for a 14mm hex on the rear of this buggy, I was thinking of running a b5m but it's hard to part with my box full of durango dex210 wheels front and rear. Any thoughts on how to run them w/o the hassle of replacing or removing all my tires?
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:39 AM   #8407
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Default Shock body caps

This may have already been answered, but I will ask again because I am too lazy to sift through 500 pages...

is there some kind of advantage to running the aluminum shock caps over the plastic ?
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:42 AM   #8408
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Yes. The most important reason in the world..They are pretty , The plastic caps IMO wear out quicker. But that is subjective. If you get the alum caps, do yourself a favor and ditch the button head screws and get some good cap head screws for the bleeder.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:20 AM   #8409
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Yes. The most important reason in the world..They are pretty , The plastic caps IMO wear out quicker. But that is subjective. If you get the alum caps, do yourself a favor and ditch the button head screws and get some good cap head screws for the bleeder.
lol...Thats good enough for me ! thanks
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:25 AM   #8410
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Inline setup testing (from Upgrade RC facebook page)
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Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-1492315_582936065144204_909397656580354269_o.jpg  
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:55 AM   #8411
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WHAT THE HELL!!! That is a losi electronics config
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:03 AM   #8412
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I changed over to the line setup yesterday. Due to wiring and time, I started with the speedo and receiver on each side of the battery and the battery pushed to the waterfall. Inline. It ran VERY smooth. I am not sure if the lap time changed much... But I felt much more consistent when driving the car. It felt much easier to drive. When the car did start to break loose, it seems to be much easier to control the rotation. I also feel that the car is able to stay more level when cornering.

After the races, I had a few minutes to move the battery forward and tuck the ESC into the waterfall. I did some laps... I feel like with this setup (battery inline and forward) I could drive the car a LOT harder. On power steering is great now. It feels that the harder I am on the throttle on the exits, the more it wants to grab traction.
I hate to say, the computer was turned off so I do not have any lap times with this setup.
One other thing to note, even tho my average lap time is faster with this setup, the motor came off the track almost 10* cooler from the last time I raced, air temp was higher as well. So the car seems to like this setup a lot.

I am a Sportsman stock drive that is about to move into Expert in our club racing. Track is med to high traction, indoor, clay. Running Electron 2.2 front and rear.
front shocks:
Kyosho Red springs, inside hole on the tower, outside on the arm. 3x1.4 30w, 24mm
Rear motor front arms and towers. I am running the grub screws in the hubs.

Rear shocks:
Kyosho Gold springs, inside hole on the tower and the Arms. 2x1.6 27.5w, 24mm. Rear Motor Arms, again with the grub screws in the hubs.

I have MIP pucks, alum top shaft, stock slipper, Reedy 17.5 motor, 72/32 gearing. Lunsford turn buckles. Everything else is out of the box.

I should be racing again on Wednesday night and have lap times to work with at that point. Lap times from my race yesterday was a best at 16.2 (fastest time of the class), I was TQ in sportsman and would have been 5th in expert based on my times.

I have to say, I was a bit worried about cutting up the plastic to make this setup, but I can not see myself going back now... I love the way the car is driving and I can not wait to see the lap times with moving the battery forward more. It feels great, jumps great, and overall feels like it is a lot easier to drive.

If anyone is questioning making the change, I have to say that it has worked great for me.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:07 AM   #8413
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Does anyone agree that practicing with a mod motor and racing with a stock motor will make you a better racer?
My take on this is that, give anyone who can handle a mod car at competitive pace for an entire race a stock car and how do they do? I've never seen them be slow, but I've seen plenty of the opposite
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:30 AM   #8414
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My take on this is that, give anyone who can handle a mod car at competitive pace for an entire race a stock car and how do they do? I've never seen them be slow, but I've seen plenty of the opposite
It messes me up. Trigger pull and timing are off. Plus for my track, the setups are different. We stiffen up the car for mod, because there is so much traction, that at high speeds you want less weight transfer opposed to running a softer car. But mostly, mod and stock timing is different. I have given my stock car to mod guys before and they always struggle with trigger pull and timing. And they are too used to instant power. I was running 4wd buggy and stock buggy and it just messed me up too much when the classes were back to bad. I ran mod buggy and 4wd buggy this week and it was a much better transition.
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:07 PM   #8415
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Default Initial Setup of buggy

Hi Everyone,

I am a newbie. I purchased a rolling B5M. I am slowly getting all the electronics for the buggy (just purchased Trinity D4 and JustStock ESC). I should have everything else in a few more weeks. I plan to race stock on a green carpet track (MMR), but most of my practice time will be on dirt (FTR 510).

That being said I am curious if there are any general guide lines for setting up the buggy for my first run at a track. I would like to maximize my practice time.

Should i just download a basic setup sheet and go from there? Or just follow the manuals setup for shocks, camber, etc.

And the most important question...are there any issues with going back and forth between the two different surfaces.

I am guessing I should bring everything to the track for practice to make adjustments.

Any help or advice would be great. Thanks!
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