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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:21 PM   #811
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The new orion esc looks good for b5.

interesting info back a few pages on tech with m12 controlling new sanwa esc - pretty rough UI, wondered on that. Drag brake and reverse would be cool and to see settings on a screen since I'm coming from LRP. I think with Samsung phones and iPhones a color screen would be great item in radios. We should be able to do more stuff from our radio, change our b5 esc, check temps, etc. maybe next tech for our cars. Get b5 tomorrow so hope b5m is two weeks from now. I want to see what AE drivers are going to drive at next races when both cars are out.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:23 PM   #812
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RC10B5M Team Kit
1:10 scale 2WD off road has been Team Associated's signature racing class since the release of the original RC10 in 1984. The Team Associated RC10 buggy series has won eleven I.F.M.A.R. World Championships since the class began in 1985.

Use the right tool for the job.
The engineers in Team Associated's Area 51 designed the RC10B5M to specifically address the demands of racing on high-speed, high-grip tracks where the mid-motor chassis is at its best. The new suspension and chassis adjustments allow the platform to be tuned for both dirt and multi-surface while maintaining the forgiving driving style racers have become accustomed to with Team Associated vehicles.

No-compromise design.
The RC10B5M Team Kit utilizes a dedicated mid-motor chassis configuration, but still shares nearly 90% of the same parts as the rear-motor B5 Team Kit. The aluminum, hard-anodized chassis, gull wing front suspension arm geometry, Factory Team V2 threaded shocks, and Factory Team VTS slipper clutch are all standard features and give the RC10B5M the ultimate in performance.

Making the best even better.
The RC10B5M has all the makings of a champion, and with the proven performance from Team Associated, you're assured of support no matter where you go. If high-speed, high-grip tracks are your game, the B5M has what it takes to give you the winning advantage.

Features
  • Narrowed hard anodized aluminum chassis with centralized mass and mid-motor position for improved handling on high grip off road tracks
  • Chassis accepts R.O.A.R.-approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using the additional foam insert
  • Factory Team V2 12mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm shock shafts and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
  • Factory Team VTS (Variable Torque multi-plate Slipper) with three drive surfaces and high-resolution spring
  • New transmission has stronger gears, precision ball bearings, and a 14 carbide ball differential for increased life and torque capacity
  • Adjustable front suspension mount angle (kick-up) options of 25 deg. and 30 deg.
  • New gull wing front suspension features heavy-duty steering and caster blocks, while the insert system allows for easy caster and trailing axle adjustments
  • One-piece front axle/hex adapter and larger front wheel bearing for added durability
  • Updated full bearing steering system with horizontal ball studs for finer Ackermann adjustments
  • Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
  • Rear hubs feature larger bearings as well as the quick and easy insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in
  • B5M clear body and wing included









MANUAL:

B5M Manual

Arm insert supplement:
Arm Mount Supplemental Instructions

Gear Diff Supplement:
Gear Diff Supplemental Instructions

Aluminum Rear Hub Supplement:
Aluminum Rear Hub Supplemental Instructions

SET-UP SHEETS:

Official AE Setup Sheets:
Associated Setup Sheets (AE Website)

Petitrc.com Setup Sheets:
PetitRC Setup Sheets

FACTORY TEAM PARTS:

All Factory Team Parts can be found here:
AE Factory Team Parts

TIPS and TRICKS:

How to free up your ball cups:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


OTHER RESOURCES

Petit RC Page - Very Comprehensive guide for the B5 and B5M
Tuning with Camber Links - Long read, and a different way to tune your car, but it can make more sense for some.
Razathorn's Camber Link Tuning Guide
Darcness's Tuning Guide
Martin Crisp's Car Tuning Guide - Onroad oriented, but very informative.

How to set your slipper, rebuild your diff and adjust your ball diff (courtesy of Racer53):

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


AFTERMARKET PARTS:

Acer Racing:
Ceramic Bearing Kit

CB Custom's Cut Gears:
Custom Cut Gears

WillS's Fan Mount:
3D Printed Fan Mount

PSM R/C:
Aluminum Shock Standoff
Aluminum Caster Block Insert
-1mm Offset Front Axles
+1mm Offset Front Axles
0 Offset Front Axles
Aluminum Rear CVA Axles
5mm Carbon Front Shock Tower

Casper R/C Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff:
Casper R/C

Xfactory:
Infinity Graphite Chassis Conversion

Stiky Liks Racing Concepts:
Stik Liks Milled Chassis

JConcepts:
Aluminum Motor Mount
Aluminum Front Suspension Brace
Titanium Front Axle
Aluminum Rear Hexes
Aluminum Front Hexes
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Chassis Protector
Fin Titanium Turnbuckles

Tsunami R/C (Carbon fiber motor plates and battery braces):
Tsunami R/C Store

Sumo-Racing (Both B5 and B5m battery braces)
Sumo Racing Carbon Battery Braces

Proline:
Graphite Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm)
Graphite Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing)

Exotek Racing:
Titanium Front Axles
Aluminum Topshaft
Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm)
Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing)
Aluminum Rear Clamping Hex
Slipper Eliminator
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Aluminum Rear Wing Mount
Aluminum Wing Buttons

STRC:
Aluminum Front Bulkhead
Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
Aluminum Front Suspension Brace
Aluminum Front Castor Block
Aluminum Rear Hubs
Aluminum Finned Motor Plate
Aluminum Shock Mounts
Aluminum Rear Camber Link
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Titanium Screw and Aluminum Locknut Kit

Protek:
Titanium Screw Kit

MIP:
Puck Drive System with Shiney CVD's - For Mod
Puck Drive System with Bi-metal CVD's - For Stock
Bypass Shock Valve System
Aluminum Top Shaft

Lunsford:
Titanium Turnbuckles
Titanium Front Axles
Titanium Shock Mounts
Titanium Screw Kit
Titanium Ball Stud Kit

Avid:
Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff
Carbide Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff
Shock Standoffs
Triad Evo Slipper Clutch
New Triad Plates
Aluminum Wing Buttons
De-Shielded Transmission Bearing Kit
Titanium Ball Stud Kit
Hate kit bearings? Build your own here:
Custom Bearing Builder

Schelle Racing:
Aluminum Shock Standoffs
Carbon Battery Strap
Chassis Protector
Aluminum Top Shaft
Ceramic Bearings - Transmission
Nova Slipper Clutch
Nova Lockout Plate
64 Pitch 88 tooth Spur
64 Pitch 96 tooth Spur

AFTERMARKET BODIES:

Sweep Racing:
Muzzle Body

Jconcepts:
Finnisher Body
Silencer Body

Proline:
Phantom Body

RCPromask:
RC Promask Body


Common Questions and Answers

Q: What gearing do I start with?
A: This question is very track dependent, but for Stock, start off with a 66 or 69 spur and 30-34 pinion. For Mod, follow the chart in the manual to start. Always gear for temperature, and check after every practice run to ensure you are not building up too much heat.

Q: My turnbuckles keep popping off when I try to adjust them, how do I fix them?
A: Make sure you have greased the threads with either black grease or chapstick. You may want to use a drill to "work" each turnbuckle into the cups (picture coming soon). This will cut and work the threads into the ballcups making it easier to make adjustments.

Q: How can I free up my ball cups? They are too tight!
A: See this or this video. Also try to polish and/or sand (with high grit sandpaper) the stock ball studs. Lunsford and Avid both offer titanium ball studs which should have better tolerances. See above parts listing for each.

Q: What hop-ups should I get for my new kit?
A: If I had a dollar for every time this question comes up in a thread...Just kidding. Write up coming soon.

Q: What does adding the B5's rear arms do for handling?
A: write-up coming soon!

Q: What does adding the flat front arms and tower do for the car?
A:coming soon!

Q: Do the AE X-Rings make a difference in the shocks?
A: Yes! They are expensive, but work better than stock, IMHO.

Q: My B5M seems heavy. What hopups do I need to lighten it up for Stock racing?
A: Buy everything. Just kidding. Write-up coming soon.

Q: What is the "inline" setup?
A: AKA, "The Tacompton Setup" the inline setup is....

Q: How can I cool my B5M motor?
A: You can get this fan mount or mount your fan in like in these pictures:







Q:
A:

Q:
A:

____________________________________



Welcome to the B5M First Post!
I'm going to break this first post up into a few different categories to make it easier to keep track of everything.

B5M Resources:

Big Bore Shock Info
Shock Piston Damping Chart
VIDEO: B5M Engineer Interview
Cool Tip to Prevent Front Shock Tower Wear


Manual - RC10B5 Mid Motor Manual
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...pringChart.pdf

BUILD INFORMATION:

Build Tips: TURNBUCKLES - consider using either a 7/64 drill bit to remove just a tiny bit of material from ball cups to make threading the turnbuckles in a bunch easier......or grease the threads using chapstick...

Build Tips: - FRONT AXLES - some people have had problems destroying front axles......it looks like the crush tube is just a bit too narrow. a 5 x 7 .2mm shim should fix this issue...Please check the B5 Nation Facebook group and see Chad Dues' Post.


SET UP INFORMATION:

Surface: Clay - Kody Numedahl B5M - http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...C_Numedhal.pdf
Surface: Carpet - Jesper Rasmussen - http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...en_ORCM201403/
Surface: Sugar Blue Groove, Bumpy - Ryan Cavalieri - 2014 Cactus Classic
Surface: Sugar Blue Groove, Bumpy - Ryan Maifield - 2014 Cactus Classic
Surface: Indoor,Dirt, Bumpy - Low traction - Chris Watson - 702 Raceway

Factory Team Parts:

Aluminum Steering Rack
Front and Rear Aluminum Arm Mounts
C Pill & D Pills for the Aluminum Arm Mounts
Front Hinge Pin Brace
Clamping Rear Aluminum Hex
Lightweight Aluminum Screw Kit
Front Axle and Aluminum Clamping Hex Conversion Parts
Aluminum Shock Mounts - needs plastic bushings to work


Other Aftermarket Parts
Lunsford Titanium Axles
Lunsford Punisher Series Titanium Turnbuckles
Lunsford B5M titanium Screw Kit
Lunsford Titanium Shock Mounts
Jconcepts B4/B5 finned Turnbuckles

Aftermarket Bodies
Proline Phantom
JConcepts Silencer



OTHER RESOURCES



Other Websites:
Awesome B5 / B5M page at PetitRC
Main B5M Page at TeamAssociated.com



TIPS and TRICKS:

1. Many team drivers have decided to use the Rear arms and the flat front A-arms/ shock tower from the B5. They claim it makes the car far easier to drive and much more consistent throughout the corner. Note: the rear arms from the B5 have to be installed backwards so they sweep forward a bit more.

2. If you're having problems damaging front bearings you may want to consider adding a .2mm spacers in with the crush tube in the front axle. It seems the crush tube may be just a bit to narrow which allows for too much pressure on the bearings when the axle screws are tightened down.

3. A couple of factory drivers and some fast locals here in California have decided to cut out the extra plastic in the battery tray and mount the electronics like they were in the centro..........receiver behind the servo with the esc behind the receiver much closer to the battery. Some have even removed or chopped up the waterfall in the hunt for more forward bite.

Last edited by RCBuddha; 09-26-2014 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Constantly updating the thread!
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:41 PM   #813
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Grab one for me off the boat.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:43 PM   #814
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:12 PM   #815
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post


I think I see the MM kits!
Seattle Port? Good luck, that container is going INTENSIVE!
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:45 AM   #816
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Originally Posted by BillPear View Post
Funny how first there was the Orion R10, then there was HobbyWing, and yet the Orion's are clones! Oh and even if they are the same, the quality of hardware under the skin is very different.
I agree the HW has much better quality.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:04 AM   #817
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I agree the HW has much better quality.
Yeah, who knows? It's funny because if there really was better quality hardware why wouldn't the name brand ESC manufacturers selling at a premium tell us that? In any other electronics market (e.g., home audio/computers/phones) the manufacturers and/or press will do 'tear downs' to see what is inside so you know everything from the processor brands to the types of capacitors and can see the board layouts. It's pretty easy to tear open these little boxes and take a look at the components ...
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:50 AM   #818
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Originally Posted by 34x17 View Post
Yeah, who knows? It's funny because if there really was better quality hardware why wouldn't the name brand ESC manufacturers selling at a premium tell us that? In any other electronics market (e.g., home audio/computers/phones) the manufacturers and/or press will do 'tear downs' to see what is inside so you know everything from the processor brands to the types of capacitors and can see the board layouts. It's pretty easy to tear open these little boxes and take a look at the components ...
all I can say is... I powered my scte 2.0 with a 4 pole 4700 KV motor with my v2.1 and it ran at 120 degrees and ran smooth as silk. If it were fragile it would have died. And I have seen way more orions die and receive little to no support on the product. Plus orion decided that they needed an $80 program box. lol. Dont get me wrong, the orions are fine, but they cost 200% more than the HW and are maybe 1% better. Anyway, people will buy their favorite brand no mater what. I just tire of the HW bashing, when HW does not deserve it. If you want top notch support get a Tekin or viper. You really cant do any better then those.
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:26 AM   #819
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Had another quick question guys. I've never driven buggy at all, but can't decide on rear vs mid motor. Mike rc did a review and he said the mid motor feels inconsistent or unlike what he's used to. Since I'm starting out will I notice the difference since I drive the sc10?
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:39 AM   #820
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Had another quick question guys. I've never driven buggy at all, but can't decide on rear vs mid motor. Mike rc did a review and he said the mid motor feels inconsistent or unlike what he's used to. Since I'm starting out will I notice the difference since I drive the sc10?
Hard to say without knowing your track conditions. RM is going to work everywhere. MM will work great on high traction. From having my Centro and B4.2 I think RM is easier to make work and easier to drive. MM takes more precise tuning but more rewarding. You will be terrible at both at first.
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:42 AM   #821
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Had another quick question guys. I've never driven buggy at all, but can't decide on rear vs mid motor. Mike rc did a review and he said the mid motor feels inconsistent or unlike what he's used to. Since I'm starting out will I notice the difference since I drive the sc10?
first off, you will notice a huge difference in either MM or RM because Short Course trucks handle like crap. Buggies feel like Ferrari compared to the dump truck feel of the SC trucks. As far as MM or RM......Some people like and some people hate MM. Most anyone can drive a RM on any track and be fine with it. Phend won nationals on a high bite track against an almost full MM field of drivers. Its not like your going to be at a huge disadvantage in RM. And yes, many people feel that the RM is easier to tune. Honestly, if your really unsure about what to get, I personally feel like the RM is a safer choice. Since your new to driving, the RM might be even more so a better choice.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:11 AM   #822
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I agree the HW has much better quality.
Actually I am saying the Orion is of higher quality components. Of my 4 than I have been running for 3 years now none have failed, but I see HW's being returned regularly. I'm so confident in my Orions, I will be buying a new one for my B5m
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:27 AM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Seattle Port? Good luck, that container is going INTENSIVE!
Oman !

Back on topic again. LoL
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:37 AM   #824
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Well Wild Cherry said B5 RM would ship week after Reedy race.... Looks like he was spot on that! Now when will the mids ship.....
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:48 AM   #825
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I made bank , won all the race bucks on the prediction game.

We have Scotty's Sc race next week.
Our local team drivers have to run the rear , team orders.

Not good when you have order um to run the latest..
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