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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-09-2014, 10:58 AM
  #8191  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I know right... it was 85 last weekend and I got a little sun burn. We have it rough in AZ
one of our local tracks had to push opening weekend back 2 weeks because there was snow on the area they are building the track........yeah... it's been that kind of winter.
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
one of our local tracks had to push opening weekend back 2 weeks because there was snow on the area they are building the track........yeah... it's been that kind of winter.
95 here today in so cal
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:28 AM
  #8193  
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you all have it SOOOO rough
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
my car is stock with the SMC sqaure pack and is 1665. And my wires are all about an inch too long. If I really wanted to, I could toss the short pack and low profile servo in, trim my wiring, and I'm sure I would be mid to low 1500's I mean shorty vs square is what.... 80grams alone??

add in Pucks, alum top shaft, and other various things, I could see it. Not saying I would do it, but I could see it.

Just as a point of reference, my rear motor car, bone stock with a shorty was 1490. It had no transponder in it when I weighed it. If I am to run that car outside, I'll likely add a ton of weight and switch to a square.
My car with the aluminum screw kit and a shorty is at 1598 -- and I run all plastic parts as well. Difference between a shorty and saddle/sq pack is about 60-70g. There is absolutley no way it can be 1478 -- I'LL BET THE FARM ON IT.

I'm not trying to stir the pot here, but there is no way with an aluminum chassis you will be able to get that thing close to 1500.

My B5 RM is just under 1500g (just to ensure my scale is accurate).

Anyone else is free to prove me wrong with their B5M & scale.

Maifield's B5M is at 1620g and you knolw he runs titanium.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...3_Maifield.pdf
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:45 AM
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skritcher: mine is at about 1535-40g right now with a shorty. The guy whose is at 147x probably is using one of the pan car shortys that is about 150g or so. it is definitely possible to get it that light, i think he is also using aka typos which are about 20g lighter than other comparable tires (so ive heard). Im running a full size servo, hobbywing esc, airtronics rx, personal transponder. I have also added the aluminum c/d blocks, aluminum top shaft, aluminum screw kit. My rm is at about 1475 if i weighed it without any additional weight.
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:47 AM
  #8196  
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to stir the pot more..... if someone proves you wrong, you said you would bet your house... would you bet your car
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by skrichter
My car with the aluminum screw kit and a shorty is at 1598 -- and I run all plastic parts as well. Difference between a shorty and saddle/sq pack is about 60-70g. There is absolutley no way it can be 1478 -- I'LL BET THE FARM ON IT.

I'm not trying to stir the pot here, but there is no way with an aluminum chassis you will be able to get that thing close to 1500.

My B5 RM is just under 1500g (just to ensure my scale is accurate).

Anyone else is free to prove me wrong with their B5M & scale.

Maifield's B5M is at 1620g and you knolw he runs titanium.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...3_Maifield.pdf
Not a problem. When you want to meet and how much money you want to lose?
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
skritcher: mine is at about 1535-40g right now with a shorty. The guy whose is at 147x probably is using one of the pan car shortys that is about 150g or so. it is definitely possible to get it that light, i think he is also using aka typos which are about 20g lighter than other comparable tires (so ive heard). Im running a full size servo, hobbywing esc, airtronics rx, personal transponder. I have also added the aluminum c/d blocks, aluminum top shaft, aluminum screw kit. My rm is at about 1475 if i weighed it without any additional weight.
Yes im running a pan car battery and my Typo rims are 209 grams for the set. The tires are 30 grams lighter than my stock wheels with protek ions mounted to them
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
Where do your race at. If W3 try SS Ions up front
Yeah thats were i race. I have three sets of those as well. Still same issue
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:59 AM
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mine was 1560 at top notch series, kit build with my electronics. could easily get under 1500 if i wanted to
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by splking1
Yes im running a pan car battery and my Typo rims are 209 grams for the set. The tires are 30 grams lighter than my stock wheels with protek ions mounted to them
Pan Car battery = totally understandable.

If you are running stock, I say go for it -- you will need to find a setup that works for you.

Otherwise, I would stick to a shorty for mod for the extra weight. Makes it so much easier to drive.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:09 PM
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Just went and picked mine up:

I was going to hold out for the B5m, but I e-mailed AE customer support and they said the B5m's won't be available until the end of the month. I decided I wanted to start racing sooner than later!

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Old 04-09-2014, 12:24 PM
  #8203  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Pan Car battery = totally understandable.

If you are running stock, I say go for it -- you will need to find a setup that works for you.

Otherwise, I would stick to a shorty for mod for the extra weight. Makes it so much easier to drive.
Yeah man I'm running stock. Totally agree with you if I was running mod
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:40 PM
  #8204  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Mason.....the front of the car is 551 and 923 for a total of 1474. Im not sure what to calculate from here. I dont have 4 scales to give you weights all the way around
551/1474 = 37.3%
923/1474= 62.6%


if you haven't already..
move the front shocks inward both top and bottom
less trailing steering
heck change the wheel base around to transfer more weight

beyond that.. slow down? use brakes? I'm about out of ideas.. could try rear swaybar but that's more of a last resort. Probably would be better off changing rear links if the rear is that locked in.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:12 PM
  #8205  
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Things I would try are
-Heavier rear springs (Can't see ever running black on the back of this car) try green if you like a soft car. White is standard for me in stock and mod (even on slippery tracks).
-More rear droop (27 mm stroke) helps it flat ground/ land better too.
-Go 1 mm ballstud on the front (crispens up the steering quite a bit)
-For now, just go to 1 mm Ackerman spacer on steering rack without changing trail. Even nicer steering.
-Just a dab of drag brake can help get the front end in the corner.
-For now I'm happy with the shock package using white springs front and rear. Kicking around green for the front for a little more steering. kit 1.6 front and rear pistons 30 wt front and rear. I want to try the tapered 3 hole front tapered pistons. Just don't have them yet.
-For the rest of my setup I am running
-1b on the rear link with 1mm a towers
-Hubs middle
-3 toe 2 anti squat
-1a on front link with 1mm
-Shorty with 1 skinny pad in the back for mod 2 skinny for stock.

Car is an animal

Dax
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