Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#8074
+1
#8075
Tech Adept
broken plastic insert for rear hubs
So I ignored the advice that people gave about putting a ball stud washer on before the ballstud goes into plastic insert that the rear outside ball stud goes through before it threads into the aluminum insert. I got my fastest lap I had got yet since our track was rebuilt. Pulled my car and found I had broke this plastic piece.
I haven't had any other parts break till this one. Luckily my LHS actually had a set of rear hubs in stock. One of 3 parts they have for the B5.
Just thought I would let u guys know. Mine broke in practice. Would have really sucked if it happened in the middle of the main.
I haven't had any other parts break till this one. Luckily my LHS actually had a set of rear hubs in stock. One of 3 parts they have for the B5.
Just thought I would let u guys know. Mine broke in practice. Would have really sucked if it happened in the middle of the main.
#8076
Tech Regular
So I ignored the advice that people gave about putting a ball stud washer on before the ballstud goes into plastic insert that the rear outside ball stud goes through before it threads into the aluminum insert. I got my fastest lap I had got yet since our track was rebuilt. Pulled my car and found I had broke this plastic piece.
I haven't had any other parts break till this one. Luckily my LHS actually had a set of rear hubs in stock. One of 3 parts they have for the B5.
Just thought I would let u guys know. Mine broke in practice. Would have really sucked if it happened in the middle of the main.
I haven't had any other parts break till this one. Luckily my LHS actually had a set of rear hubs in stock. One of 3 parts they have for the B5.
Just thought I would let u guys know. Mine broke in practice. Would have really sucked if it happened in the middle of the main.
That is the only reason I can see that part actually breaking from the ball stud.
If you do crank it down, the front plastic insert will deform and or break.
You don't need to crank it down super tight. All you need to do is use blue Loctite and tighten down until snug but not to the point that the insert starts t deform. Let it cure over night.
I did this with the rear ball studs and from axle screw and have not had a problem. I have seen quite a few people at the track I run at have these issues. Any screw that goes into metal should be secured with blue Loctite at least the night before running.
It would be nice if AE were to put this in the build manual but a little bit of common sense goes a long way.
#8077
HEy ??
Where's that RM B5r set up ?
Where's that RM B5r set up ?
#8078
Tech Adept
Did you screw the ball stud in too tight?
That is the only reason I can see that part actually breaking from the ball stud.
If you do crank it down, the front plastic insert will deform and or break.
You don't need to crank it down super tight. All you need to do is use blue Loctite and tighten down until snug but not to the point that the insert starts t deform. Let it cure over night.
I did this with the rear ball studs and from axle screw and have not had a problem. I have seen quite a few people at the track I run at have these issues. Any screw that goes into metal should be secured with blue Loctite at least the night before running.
It would be nice if AE were to put this in the build manual but a little bit of common sense goes a long way.
That is the only reason I can see that part actually breaking from the ball stud.
If you do crank it down, the front plastic insert will deform and or break.
You don't need to crank it down super tight. All you need to do is use blue Loctite and tighten down until snug but not to the point that the insert starts t deform. Let it cure over night.
I did this with the rear ball studs and from axle screw and have not had a problem. I have seen quite a few people at the track I run at have these issues. Any screw that goes into metal should be secured with blue Loctite at least the night before running.
It would be nice if AE were to put this in the build manual but a little bit of common sense goes a long way.
#8079
Like Wild Cherry posted back when, you have to put a washer under that rear hub ballstud or that will happen.
#8080
Not bad for a guy that only has $300 in optional B5 parts & spares and still has no kit yet.
BTW
Picked up a carbon battery strap today.
Yep, got about a dozen and bet there all gone tommorow.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 04-07-2014 at 11:09 PM.
#8081
Tech Regular
I have been racing my B5 2 days a week plus practice since it came out.
I have not had this issue with the rear ball stud since putting it together with blue Loctite. Didn't have to use a ball stud washer but it couldn't hurt.
It would have been nice if they used blue aluminum inserts front and rear. You would still need to Loctite it in but there would be no issue with the plastic deforming as you tighten it up.
Of course the simple fix is to just use a longer ball stud and lock nut.
#8082
FYI we had b5r's beating b5m's and other mids this past weekend and it was very high bite. Pretty tight as well. I prefer the rear. So much more "consistent" for me. See this with other drivers as well.
#8084
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
Cool....wasn't trying to be condescending.
I have been racing my B5 2 days a week plus practice since it came out.
I have not had this issue with the rear ball stud since putting it together with blue Loctite. Didn't have to use a ball stud washer but it couldn't hurt.
It would have been nice if they used blue aluminum inserts front and rear. You would still need to Loctite it in but there would be no issue with the plastic deforming as you tighten it up.
Of course the simple fix is to just use a longer ball stud and lock nut.
I have been racing my B5 2 days a week plus practice since it came out.
I have not had this issue with the rear ball stud since putting it together with blue Loctite. Didn't have to use a ball stud washer but it couldn't hurt.
It would have been nice if they used blue aluminum inserts front and rear. You would still need to Loctite it in but there would be no issue with the plastic deforming as you tighten it up.
Of course the simple fix is to just use a longer ball stud and lock nut.
#8085
I almost bought the MM but am enjoying the RM, I can't see spending the money on side-grading to the MM. But it's so tempting... I'll probably buy a stadium truck instead.