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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:46 AM   #7816
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if you run the b5 front arms on the b5m, do you need to also run the b5 shock tower or is the b5m tower ok?
You need the B5 front tower as well
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:50 AM   #7817
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On to the B5M.....has anyone run both the composite bellcrank and the aluminum version? Just wondering if there is any advantage or if it's just bling. I have the aluminum bellcranks in my B5 but am probably just going to use the composite cranks in the B5M - I don't want to spend any more $ on upgrades right now.
I switched over to the STRC aluminum to add weight to the front and increase the durability. All I really wanted was the aluminum steering plate. The extra weight helped on high speed steering and its wanting to wheelie and certain sections on my local track.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:02 AM   #7818
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Thanks for the info. I was going through some of the setup sheets and I see that some of the "pros" were using the flat arms and B5 tower, the FT hard version. The rear flat arms as well.
l
Only places I see for great places for the hard parts are the spindles, caster blocks and rear hubs. The spindles make the biggest improvement as they dont build slops like the stock hubs due. People are fixing the stock hubs by gluing the inserts in. If you race in cold climates just remember that even though you dont think it happens the plastic does get harder and the oil do get thicker.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:20 AM   #7819
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I did order those.
If you try to use the rear grub screws before the break in, you might get some binding. Just an fyi.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:23 AM   #7820
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I switched over to the STRC aluminum to add weight to the front and increase the durability. All I really wanted was the aluminum steering plate. The extra weight helped on high speed steering and its wanting to wheelie and certain sections on my local track.
I am using the RM rear arms and had issues with high speed push and wheelies. I also had the hubs full forward. I moved the hub to middle and it was better. And I move them all the way back if I need more steering. It also seemed to reduce the amount of traction rolling. As out track is high bite and rutted.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:07 AM   #7821
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You need the B5 front tower as well
thank you
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:15 AM   #7822
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If you try to use the rear grub screws before the break in, you might get some binding. Just an fyi.
Thanks!

I'm hoping to hit the track with it Sat, I'm still waiting on a ball stud from AE though.

It will be box stock except for the aluminum front pin brace, aluminum rear ball stud mount and aluminum hexes.

I had a hard time getting the Lundsford titanium turnbuckles for some reason and had to order them from someplace else, also waiting on the front and rear flat arms, front tower.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:56 AM   #7823
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If you try to use the rear grub screws before the break in, you might get some binding. Just an fyi.
the instructions say to install as an option and nothing about a break in period. If you installed them without a break in, is it still possible to take them out and do the break then re install or will it matter?
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:18 PM   #7824
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the instructions say to install as an option and nothing about a break in period. If you installed them without a break in, is it still possible to take them out and do the break then re install or will it matter?
The grub screw pressed against the insert. Because everything is already tight when new, it seems to bind it up often. When the car is new, you dont really need the screws. I would install them, but not tighten them up. then tighten as needed as it break in.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:47 PM   #7825
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If you try to use the rear grub screws before the break in, you might get some binding. Just an fyi.
just in my experience, i had no binding. others may though
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:52 PM   #7826
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Here's a 85g brass weight I made to improve my B5m on super slippery tracks (polished floor) hoping it can give ideas to people.









Jonathan
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:56 PM   #7827
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Nice......man that is huge....that is what she said, lol. 85g, wowsers. A square pack was no good?
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:57 PM   #7828
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Holy mother of brass bat man!
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:58 PM   #7829
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just in my experience, i had no binding. others may though
I didnt on one car and not on the other. If it binds, simply back it off till it stops binding. Some people a while back were complaining about the binding. Thus I thought i would clarify. Also, when using the kit plastic suspension holders, you will probably get some back and forth play. I used TLR 22 shock limiters to shim it up. The are 3.5mm ID
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:06 PM   #7830
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WC will have a lot of built up frustration when he gets back. LOL
Did WC get a vacation !
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