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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:39 AM   #7801
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You know guys, we're awful rough on Cherry. Don't get me wrong, I think he's full of it. I'll qualify that by explaining my position. Based on how good each of his tips is his lap times are negative. If I post about how great something is I saw a tenth or two improvement or my average laps were more consistent (by making my change). He posts twice a week about how all his team guys did whatever and its better than bottled water. That's my issue....also any club racer who rebuilds his car every week needs to find something better to do. Anyway, I think all his BS comes from a good place. I don't think that guy has a mean bone in his body. I honestly don't think he's got anything better to do. I, myself, just put my kids to bed and had a few cocktails. My wife fell asleep on the couch, which consequently, is when I do my posting and "shopping". I probably go through a car a week which means I service my cars every 2 or 2 1/2 months. I'm the bottom of the A main or B'Q every week. I've recently set a track record by lapping the pack 3 weeks in a row in the B main. I have no talent either. I'm too old race dirt bikes and don't have time to drag race any more.....rc racing is almost the only man sport I have left!
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I appreciate his enthusiasm, and most of the time it seems good natured. What turns me off is arguing or insisting that people are wrong about something. This is a hobby for me too and I really don't take it too seriously - but I do enjoy the good tips and info shared here. No need to argue about toy cars.

On to the B5M.....has anyone run both the composite bellcrank and the aluminum version? Just wondering if there is any advantage or if it's just bling. I have the aluminum bellcranks in my B5 but am probably just going to use the composite cranks in the B5M - I don't want to spend any more $ on upgrades right now.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:49 AM   #7802
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It is bling. I have both. Plastic on the RM and alum on the MM. I have beat the piss out of the plastic ones and they are solid. No need for the alum ones at all. Strictly bling.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:57 AM   #7803
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yes just bling on the steering rack...have both couldn't tell the difference between the 2 other then I like the look of the blue..lol

question for those who are trying the graphite xfactory chassis.... how are you liking it and how are they holding up? one of my friends is thinking of getting one and I said I would ask before he makes the purchase.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:01 AM   #7804
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On to the B5M.....has anyone run both the composite bellcrank and the aluminum version? Just wondering if there is any advantage or if it's just bling. I have the aluminum bellcranks in my B5 but am probably just going to use the composite cranks in the B5M - I don't want to spend any more $ on upgrades right now.
The aluminum is a little stronger but with the new plastic I don't think it's something you "need". If anything run yours until they wear out or for some wonky reason actually break and think about it at that point.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:07 AM   #7805
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The car not really need many of the FT upgrades. Alum rear hexes, alum rear camber mount and Ti turnbuckles might be about it. The rear suspension holder are for those that want more tuning options. I run the plastic 3-1 and it is fine for me. And seems to be where most people are running it. For stock, most of the upgrades people do are after market. Chassis, slipper, pucks, ceramic bearings and so on.


Rick,
Why is everyone using the plastic shock caps? Mine clapped out super fast. The alum caps have worked much better, much longer.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:33 AM   #7806
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Question...

So for the most part, is everyone running the B5 flat front arms and B5 shock tower?
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:35 AM   #7807
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Most people seem to be. I built mine with the RM front and rear arms. Never even drove the gullwings. I tried the gullwings on my RM car and hated them.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:40 AM   #7808
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I'm not sure the flat arms and tower are a must have but I guess if you think about it from an economic perspective for $12 its a great mod that you can feel. I have them on both my B5Ms. I can't say that I was able to see a difference on the clock or that they made my laps more consistent but they did improve "feel". For a 2nd time its a great mod for $12.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:49 AM   #7809
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Thanks for the info. I was going through some of the setup sheets and I see that some of the "pros" were using the flat arms and B5 tower, the FT hard version. The rear flat arms as well.

For the money I might as well throw them on there.

I don't think I'll get the hard versions though. The track I will be racing at has some unforgiving walls...lol
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:49 AM   #7810
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The MM arms felt to edgy for me. I didnt like them. The RM car is a very stable car to drive. So if the MM arms made it hard to drive and edgy....I would not even bother to try them on the MM car. I like my cars very neutral. Not aggressive, not pushing.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:50 AM   #7811
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013 View Post
Thanks for the info. I was going through some of the setup sheets and I see that some of the "pros" were using the flat arms and B5 tower, the FT hard version. The rear flat arms as well.

For the money I might as well throw them on there.
watch out for those hard parts. They do not like being crashed. If you rarely crash and are a good driver, go for it. If you crash, stay with the plastic parts.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:01 AM   #7812
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watch out for those hard parts. They do not like being crashed. If you rarely crash and are a good driver, go for it. If you crash, stay with the plastic parts.
That's what I was thinking. I'm a little rusty, haven't raced since last summer and this is a totally new car that I have to get used to.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:09 AM   #7813
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That's what I was thinking. I'm a little rusty, haven't raced since last summer and this is a totally new car that I have to get used to.
The car is stupid durable. Pick up the 3x8mm grub screws. The read hubs become sloppy fairly quick. Once they break in, put the grub screws in. It takes away 90% of the slop. I have been very impressed with the B5. Easy to work one, durable and responds well to tuning. And to top it off, it is the cheapest car among the "racer" 2wd buggies.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:16 AM   #7814
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if you run the b5 front arms on the b5m, do you need to also run the b5 shock tower or is the b5m tower ok?
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:46 AM   #7815
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
The car is stupid durable. Pick up the 3x8mm grub screws. The read hubs become sloppy fairly quick. Once they break in, put the grub screws in. It takes away 90% of the slop. I have been very impressed with the B5. Easy to work one, durable and responds well to tuning. And to top it off, it is the cheapest car among the "racer" 2wd buggies.
I did order those.
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