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Old 09-02-2014, 07:51 PM   #7666
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
If we use a carbon fiber chassis on the car and flat front arms and tower arent we essentially driving a centro c4.2. cause that is pretty well what it would be. Not that the centro was a bad car, its an awesome car. But the B5m has different and unique characteristics that make it a different car that IMO performs better than a centro.
I think it would still handle differently than a centro with the carbon chassis- just depends on what you like. That being said I think that everyone as a whole just needs to experiment more with all this car has to offer! I'm sure there are many more set-up possibilities and things we could change to get the car even better.

I think that instead of changing the car to drive how we like it we should try and adjust to what the car does best. It takes a little time- but with focus and practice you can change your driving style. I changed my style in touring car racing and saw much better results! I think the same goes for mid motored cars- you can't drive it like a RM!
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:20 PM   #7667
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A FT would be wise IMO. To me the chassis is way too stiff for most conditions and a flex-tuned chassis could be an option and standard on the FT B5M. They did it on the B44.3. To me the bent sides are creating most of the stiffness, similar to an I-beam. eliminate the bent sides and redesigned cradle to allow more flex or tuned flex would work. People will say "just get the RM" but having two cars is not a financially viable option for most people. I love how the MM corners, jumps and so on so make it adapt to a wider range of tracks. Another option would make a composite chassis (RM style?) work in MM. Thoughts?
Nonsense. These cars are so cheap that you could have one of each and still be in them for about as much as a race ready RB6. The B5M is supposed to be rigid as its designed for high traction tracks. You want to race on a low traction surface buy the B5 which, like the B4.2, is the junk yard dog of buggies, tough everywhere. The B5M is so good because of its design. If you want more flex go back to a RM car.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:43 AM   #7668
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Anybody have any slop on their top shaft? I can move my whole slipper assembly approx. 1mm back and fourth.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:58 AM   #7669
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Anybody have any slop on their top shaft? I can move my whole slipper assembly approx. 1mm back and fourth.
Yeah. I don't think mine had quite that much, but it was excessive. I added an old axle shim I had lying around between the gear and the stock spacer and it took almost all the play out. Just a tiny bit now and that's acceptable.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:04 AM   #7670
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Nonsense. These cars are so cheap that you could have one of each and still be in them for about as much as a race ready RB6. The B5M is supposed to be rigid as its designed for high traction tracks. You want to race on a low traction surface buy the B5 which, like the B4.2, is the junk yard dog of buggies, tough everywhere. The B5M is so good because of its design. If you want more flex go back to a RM car.
I agree.

I plan to have both the MM and RM so I will be ready for any track.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:14 AM   #7671
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What tire manufacturer are you guys using with the stock wheels? I bought some AKA tires not realizing that they are only recommended for AKA wheels. I fitted them on the stock wheels and they do feel lose so i think i need to pick up some different tires?

Thanks!

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Old 09-03-2014, 09:20 AM   #7672
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Did you get the "EVO" tires? Those require different rims. The are 2.4 tires, not 2.2. In any case, make sure you get the 2.2 tires for the stock rims.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:27 AM   #7673
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Did you get the "EVO" tires? Those require different rims. The are 2.4 tires, not 2.2. In any case, make sure you get the 2.2 tires for the stock rims.
Yes i did. I will pick up some evo rims when i pick up some 2.2s. HAHA



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Old 09-03-2014, 09:57 AM   #7674
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Originally Posted by clydeywidey View Post
Anybody have any slop on their top shaft? I can move my whole slipper assembly approx. 1mm back and fourth.
1mm in/out or front/back/up/down? Can't think of a better way to describe it.

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Yeah. I don't think mine had quite that much, but it was excessive. I added an old axle shim I had lying around between the gear and the stock spacer and it took almost all the play out. Just a tiny bit now and that's acceptable.
No harm in shimming it tighter, but I don't even bother. 1mm isn't much, IMO, and it's not gonna hurt anything.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:02 AM   #7675
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Bearings..? I have on of the early RM kits, and the bearings were PACKED with grease (black). To the point that after 2 days it was coming out the tranny case on the out out drives That's a lot of bearing lube IMO. Building my MM kit I pulled the seals and noticed that not only was the grease clear it wasn't an overly huge amount. What are other people seeing? Running change called out by TT?
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #7676
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What tire manufacturer are you guys using with the stock wheels? I bought some AKA tires not realizing that they are only recommended for AKA wheels. I fitted them on the stock wheels and they do feel lose so i think i need to pick up some different tires?

Thanks!

jB
I've found this issue with other tire manufacturer's as well. A friend of mind who owns a Serpent Spyder had glued up a fresh set of tires on Serpent rear wheels and asked me to grind them down to slicks for him. We run on a high bite clay track where slicks are glued to the track, and I've got a pretty good method for making slicks . . . but I digress . . . I had just glued up the exact same set of tires and foams, but used my stock AE wheels. I noticed right away that my set of tires was really loose, yet his felt just right. I broke out my trusty ole digital calipers and found that the Serpent wheels are about 1.5 to 2mm larger in diameter than a stock AE wheel. So I grabbed a set of AKA pre-mounts I had and sure enough the same results, the AKA wheel has a bigger diameter. You wouldn't think that 1.5-2.0mm would make a big difference, but it does! I now use Serpent rear wheels for all tires mounted to my B5M.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #7677
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Yes i did. I will pick up some evo rims when i pick up some 2.2s. HAHA



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You can get adapter bands and still run them on the 2.2 rims. I would recommend switching out the stock foam to the standard 2.2 foams though and dont use the foam spacer that comes with the kit.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:56 AM   #7678
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You can get adapter bands and still run them on the 2.2 rims. I would recommend switching out the stock foam to the standard 2.2 foams though and dont use the foam spacer that comes with the kit.
The bands are an option but IMO for the money I would just buy the evo rims and be done.

Weren't the bands a failed attempt by AKA to circumvent/comply with ROAR rules for Nats anyway? I don't know the whole story or specifics I'm just curious..
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:04 AM   #7679
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Are most people using carbide or ceramic diff balls? What are the advantages of both? What about thrust balls, ceramic or carbide? Are the Avid thrust bearings worth it? Getting ready to rebuild my diff and want to make sure what I need to order. Thanks for any help.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:11 AM   #7680
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I find the evo tires to work better with the bands as the stock foams are a bit too firm in my opinion.
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