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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:10 PM   #7636
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Ok, quick question about the slipper clutch. Do you set it and forget it or do you still tune it to the conditions like the "old school" slipper clutches? This is slipper clutch is new to me and I'm hoping to have my debut race with it this weekend.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:14 PM   #7637
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I have a conversion kit on the way to convert my RM to MM. Is there anything specifically that you guys would recommend I pick up for the MM car? My RM car has the majority of the available upgrades but wasn't sure if there was any MM specific upgrades that I should look into? Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:17 PM   #7638
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I have a conversion kit on the way to convert my RM to MM. Is there anything specifically that you guys would recommend I pick up for the MM car? My RM car has the majority of the available upgrades but wasn't sure if there was any MM specific upgrades that I should look into? Thanks in advance!
the alum rear camber block is nice for durability. the alum C block is nice for tuning. Not sure what other upgrades your RM has, so that is my 2 cents.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:26 PM   #7639
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There's no way we can give you spot on advice without knowing more about the track you plan on running on. You can't go wrong starting at 69/30 or 72/31. Our track is 110 x 70 or so and its been really hot. I'm running 69/32 with a 17.5 (can timing cranked). A friend of mine runs 69/34 w/his 17.5. Generally speaking I've heard the D4 likes to be geared a little tall.
Track is 125x65 high traction.were running slicks now .I'm new to 17.5 I'll start with 72/32 .
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:27 PM   #7640
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My RM has the following...

JC turnbuckles
JC aluminum hexes
AE C & D plate
AE brass front bulkhead (25 degree)
AE aluminum front pin brace
AE aluminum shock bushings

I am probably forgetting something. FWIW, I will be running mod.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:37 PM   #7641
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Just picked up a B5M. What is the hot battery setup for this car? Also looking for a good steering servo. Was looking at the Savox any good? Which model? I will be racing on a indoor clay track. Thanks
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:00 PM   #7642
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Does anyone know if Associated is plan on releasing a factory team version?
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:03 PM   #7643
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Originally Posted by hlpressley View Post
My RM has the following...

JC turnbuckles
JC aluminum hexes
AE C & D plate
AE brass front bulkhead (25 degree)
AE aluminum front pin brace
AE aluminum shock bushings

I am probably forgetting something. FWIW, I will be running mod.
you cant reuse the RM C & D plates, but you can use the inserts. The brass front bulkhead may not be very good. As the MM does not need the weight up front like the RM car.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:04 PM   #7644
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Does anyone know if Associated is plan on releasing a factory team version?
lol, I was thinking about this today. I would like to get my kid a B5 for xmas. The problem is, if there is a FT car, it wont be until after xmas probably. If there is one at all.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:06 PM   #7645
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Does anyone know if Associated is plan on releasing a factory team version?
I would doubt it. Ft option parts are all out now they make more $ selling them individually. Plus then you have the option to add the ft parts where you want them.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:10 PM   #7646
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I would agree. If there was a FT car, I would do the minimal if I were AE. Do like TLR and have people buy the stuff they want and only include the must haves.

So IMO, all the FT should have is:

Alum C & D mounts
Xrings
Alum Hexes for the rear only
Alum rear camber block for the MM
Ti turnbuckles

Nothing else is really needed. Milled motor plates, FT Hubs, alum top shaft and all the rest should be bought separately as option parts.
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:18 PM   #7647
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hate to bring up the ball cup issue, but....

as far as aftermarket, are there aftermarket cups (lunsford) that people are having success with?
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:20 PM   #7648
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To be honest a FT car wouldn't be a wise choice for AE. If they would just put the FT bearings in the team kit that's already out, it would be perfect for 99% of people that buy the kit. The aluminum stuff adds weight for the guys that run stock, the hard parts are kinda fragile, and I don't know of 1 person that has broke a stock rear camber block. So if they would just add awesome bearings to the kit that's already out it would be an even better car outta the box
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:29 AM   #7649
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I recently stripped the head on a 2.5x8mm screw that goes into the front hinge pin holder. I am debating replacing the button heads with caps heads. Any issues with the cap head screws poking out too far?
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:37 AM   #7650
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why replace? get a set of MIP hexes and that will never happen again. I use to do that a lot with other brands. Went to MIP (ya they cost more, but you will never replace them) and havent had the problem since.
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