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Old 08-29-2014, 06:28 AM   #7546
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I haven't been impressed with mine. Broke one and bent two so far now. All front camber link turnbuckles. Never had a ball cup pop off though.
yeah, I broke 2 inside front cups. walls tend to do that at full speed
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:34 AM   #7547
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well I got these hexes used and it looks like the previous owner may have driller out the hex lol. so once these ceramic bearing fail, I guess i just toss the entire axle/hub/caster assembly. Why do people have to be so fing stupid with these cars. I never strip out anything.
Can be easy to strip... not the right allen key size,ball end allen (screw's cancer) or even crap quality allen key can damage the hex hole when it gives up and twists...
Can't you get a good quality plumber's wrench and grab the end ?
Usually I use a Dremel with a slitting disc and make a slot for a flat screwdriver.
The worst case scenario I would file the screw's head off with the dremel again of slowly with a file take it off even if it mean killing the hexes.

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Old 08-29-2014, 06:39 AM   #7548
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I always have several allen key of the same size because of tolerances.
What I do is put the allen key in the hole and holding it little a needle twist the key back forth to feel the play, it should be pretty small. It's very intuitive and 100% bullet proof.

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Old 08-29-2014, 06:39 AM   #7549
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So is the ball cup issue a on going problem or has AE made some running changes with the new kits?

I'm still waiting on my kit to come from Tower......
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:04 AM   #7550
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They have been making a bunch of running changes. Not idea. You tell us after you get your kit.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:18 AM   #7551
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So is the ball cup issue a on going problem or has AE made some running changes with the new kits?

I'm still waiting on my kit to come from Tower......
Running change, I highly doubt it..Honestly I would flat out say no.

B5 ball cups have nice tight tolerances compared to ball cups in the past. Which is a good thing. Due to manufacturing tolerances of a molded plastic part and the fact that the machining process of the ball stud itself is done who knows where and unlikely to Aerospace specs; having the ball cups bind is a real world possibility. Old kit, new kit..doesn't matter, some will bind and some will not.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:31 AM   #7552
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Well....it is what it is.....we'll see when I get the kit.

Any suggested "must do" mods / upgrades before I hit the track with this?

I've been checking out AE's site and they have hard plastic parts?

Geez....I take a year off and I'm lost.....LoL (raced a 8.2e and sc10.2ft last summer)
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:39 AM   #7553
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I see your in the springs, Do you plan on racing there or at MHOR? I'd checkout the local setups before Going Wild Cherry and hacking the shit out of that thing.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:39 AM   #7554
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hard parts = easy to break
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:42 AM   #7555
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My guess is that hard is good for rather hot weather(tougher than normal) but in the cold it might be pretty brittle.

Jonathan
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:51 AM   #7556
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I am racing on a high bite track. will widening the track width help?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:53 AM   #7557
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hard parts = easy to break
But they also affect handling. They're a risk vs. reward tuning option, left for each person to decide which is best for them. My question to those looking at them would be this, if you're crashing hard enough to worry about breaking the hard parts, are you good enough to see their changes/benefits anyway?
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:03 AM   #7558
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I see your in the springs, Do you plan on racing there or at MHOR? I'd checkout the local setups before Going Wild Cherry and hacking the shit out of that thing.
I've never been to MHOR.

Was planning on racing at Rocky Mountain RC since it's pretty close to me. (I used to run there 2 years ago when they first opened)

A few other people have suggested MHOR as well, so maybe I should check it out. I think it's about a hour away from me.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:09 AM   #7559
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Well at MHOR the car is fine box stock. Chenzo and I were within 4 seconds of each other after a 6 minute heat. His car is box stock, mine has RM rear arms, RM front arms and Tower.

So its really driver preference but I found Hartson's setup works for me.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:20 AM   #7560
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Well at MHOR the car is fine box stock. Chenzo and I were within 4 seconds of each other after a 6 minute heat. His car is box stock, mine has RM rear arms, RM front arms and Tower.

So its really driver preference but I found Hartson's setup works for me.
That's good to know. I'm not one to "hack" up my cars anyways.....lol

I might be a newbie according to this forum....lol.....but I've been rc racing on and off since 1985. (Yes I just carbon dated myself)
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