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Old 08-28-2014, 08:31 PM   #7531
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Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.

Associated B5M Build/Journal

Wish me luck,

jB
Aaaaah I see you did the same as me and got the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. Good choice.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:33 PM   #7532
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Well guys, I read the suggestions on what to do with the ball cups and I got my dremel out and I used some Hudy graphite grease, and it has made a total difference.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:44 PM   #7533
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Well guys, I read the suggestions on what to do with the ball cups and I got my dremel out and I used some Hudy graphite grease, and it has made a total difference.
you shouldn't have bulged the cups by over screwing them onto the turnbuckle.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:10 PM   #7534
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yeah #learn2ballcupbaddie!!!
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:40 PM   #7535
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you shouldn't have bulged the cups by over screwing them onto the turnbuckle.
Oh, so you're assuming I did the turnbuckles too tight? If you've been reading the posts on this thread you'll see that there have been quite a lot of people with this problem.
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Last edited by xrayracer1; 08-28-2014 at 09:42 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:14 PM   #7536
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Yeah man! I emailed schelle about creating a custom kit. Seems kind of silly to buy a full bearing kit and then a ceramic kit for the gearbox.

They havent written me back yet, but hopefully they do as i would like to give them my biz

jB
We are discussing having a hub replacement set, so you can buy the 8 hub bearings separate from the ceramic gearbox bearings. Would that work for you?
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:46 PM   #7537
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That would be sweet.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:54 PM   #7538
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Converted my B5rm over to mm tonight for mod fun. Sitting on shelf and wanted some thing to do. Rebuilt rm diff tonight with schelle ceramics for mm, just need to finish electronics tomorrow. Electronics take as long as car, Esc needed new wires. My car builds; car goes together pretty quick, ok fine I'll do diff, shocks - I'll deal with oil right now and these little parts, Ugg electronics, motor and slipper, ....cool get to race!!
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:25 PM   #7539
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You guys are so mean...lol. I am very sure if I were suspended for a month, I would be the next avatar, lol.




So honest question here. Who is still running the default cradle config? I cut mine a while ago, mostly because i wanted more room for my electronics. But I cut off the battery strap mounts. This has proved to be a pain. I often have a short amount of time between bumps. So I am forced to 30amp charge my pack to be ready. Plus, taping my packs into my cars just bothers me. The amount of effort to take my pack out, when I was rebuilding, my car was unreal. I do NOT suggest using the 3M clear tape full width under the battery. That was over kill by a long shot. I am thinking about getting a new cradle and just cutting the area between the thumb screws, to give me a little more room and still use the battery strap. I do realize I wont be able to get my esc as far back and my car may feel different. Also, who makes the best fitting battery strap to inline the electronics, with the battery strap in place? Without cutting on the strap.
The Exotek strap seems to be the one everyone is using if they want to cut the cradle in between the thumb screws to make room for electronics, or do an inline setup.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:30 PM   #7540
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Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.

Associated B5M Build/Journal

Wish me luck,

jB
There is so much awesome in that photo i dont know where to begin!
The Bruce Lee mural, the cigars......macbook...............B5m joy-gasm!!!!
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:32 PM   #7541
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I tried to do my cap that way last time. I dont recall what the issue was. I had my switch on top of the receiver also. because i had cap issues, I out the cap on the heat sink and the switch where you have the cap. I will try it like you have it again.


ok, I just looked at my car. I remember my issue. I bought the esc used and the guy shortened the cap wires. I will see about taking the case off the caps and maybe soldering up some new wires from the cap to the esc. I think 16-20awg should be good.
The HW cap pack is the exact same thing as the Orion, and the Tekin is the same cap, just one less. I always use the HW cap where space is an issue! I haven't tried to just heat shrink the Orion because when I opened it up, the bread board seemed to be glued to the bottom of the case. If you can get it off, then heat shrink it though I think it would work well for you and save space/weight.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:45 AM   #7542
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Oh, so you're assuming I did the turnbuckles too tight? If you've been reading the posts on this thread you'll see that there have been quite a lot of people with this problem.
My comment was complete sarcasm.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:17 AM   #7543
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Aaaaah I see you did the same as me and got the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. Good choice.
I haven't been impressed with mine. Broke one and bent two so far now. All front camber link turnbuckles. Never had a ball cup pop off though.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:19 AM   #7544
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Never had a ball cup pop off though.
probably because it was extra tight and bound onto the ball stud for you!

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Old 08-29-2014, 06:25 AM   #7545
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probably because it was extra tight and bound onto the ball stud for you!

Mine are all like buttah! Thanks to a reamer for any that feel tight...
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