Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#7517
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I've heard a lot of good things about the HW ESCs, such as being smoother and generating more power than a Tekin with the same motor. I thought the initial allure to them was that they provided such great performance at a killer price, but it seems like their premium ESCs now carry a premium price. I'm too invested in Tekin to switch for the same price and not to mention I'd have to buy their program box.
#7518
I've heard a lot of good things about the HW ESCs, such as being smoother and generating more power than a Tekin with the same motor. I thought the initial allure to them was that they provided such great performance at a killer price, but it seems like their premium ESCs now carry a premium price. I'm too invested in Tekin to switch for the same price and not to mention I'd have to buy their program box.
#7519
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Exactly. I've never had a single issue with my Tekin 1/10 ESCs and I've got 7 of them. My first few RX8s were a little sketchy , but knock on wood . . . my last several RX8s have been solid. Tekin support has been nothing short of stellar for me as well. I need to grab an adapter cable for my Android phone so I can give the Hot Wire app a try.
#7520
I used this one, works great! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Comes with two so I gave one to a buddy.
Comes with two so I gave one to a buddy.
#7522
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
I am switching to 17.5, so I pulled out my Orion R10 and 7.5 VST2 setup. I am leaning towards the HW V3.1 Stock Spec and a D4 Maxzilla setup. I am hoping that by going to 17.5 I might enjoy racing a little more, since I seem to get worked up on the stand and blow the race because I get crazy with the power. Have to admit it's been a while since I had fun racing, and it's starting to become a major bummer.
#7523
Suspended
iTrader: (115)
I am switching to 17.5, so I pulled out my Orion R10 and 7.5 VST2 setup. I am leaning towards the HW V3.1 Stock Spec and a D4 Maxzilla setup. I am hoping that by going to 17.5 I might enjoy racing a little more, since I seem to get worked up on the stand and blow the race because I get crazy with the power. Have to admit it's been a while since I had fun racing, and it's starting to become a major bummer.
Now I'm going to get back into it, get back to the roots and race stock.
#7524
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
If you're looking to have fun and race stock, don't get caught up in "omg I need the fastest stock car out there to compete!"
Have fun with it. Don't get burned out. Hell you can even run in the modified class with your stock motor. It may still be faster for you (it was for me for the longest time). The minute that this becomes work, you should go find something else to do for a while. Unless of course it is actually your job LOL.
Have fun with it. Don't get burned out. Hell you can even run in the modified class with your stock motor. It may still be faster for you (it was for me for the longest time). The minute that this becomes work, you should go find something else to do for a while. Unless of course it is actually your job LOL.
#7525
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I am switching to 17.5, so I pulled out my Orion R10 and 7.5 VST2 setup. I am leaning towards the HW V3.1 Stock Spec and a D4 Maxzilla setup. I am hoping that by going to 17.5 I might enjoy racing a little more, since I seem to get worked up on the stand and blow the race because I get crazy with the power. Have to admit it's been a while since I had fun racing, and it's starting to become a major bummer.
#7526
Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html
Wish me luck,
jB
#7527
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Here it is...
I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires. Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.
I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires. Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.
ok, I just looked at my car. I remember my issue. I bought the esc used and the guy shortened the cap wires. I will see about taking the case off the caps and maybe soldering up some new wires from the cap to the esc. I think 16-20awg should be good.
#7529
Tech Apprentice
pretty positive its a 1.5 - if not its a 2 and I had no trouble with front or back.
#7530
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
well I got these hexes used and it looks like the previous owner may have driller out the hex lol. so once these ceramic bearing fail, I guess i just toss the entire axle/hub/caster assembly. Why do people have to be so fing stupid with these cars. I never strip out anything.