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Old 08-26-2014, 09:41 AM   #7366
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the lunsford Ti studs barely remove any weight at all. Like maybe a couple grams. I think someone posted a while back that it was like 2 grams.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:41 AM   #7367
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When I come around a tight 180 and get on the gas, the inside tire seems to balloon more than the outside, is this a symptom of a diff being too loose? As far as over all handling it's pretty good right now other than trouble on that turn getting back up to speed fast enough and a little bit of push at higher speeds (which I think can fix by lowering the wing)
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:56 AM   #7368
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When I come around a tight 180 and get on the gas, the inside tire seems to balloon more than the outside, is this a symptom of a diff being too loose? As far as over all handling it's pretty good right now other than trouble on that turn getting back up to speed fast enough and a little bit of push at higher speeds (which I think can fix by lowering the wing)
I know what your talking about. I had the same issue with the car rolling over too fast and lifting the inside wheel on higher bite tracks. I went up in oils and spring rates and it went away. Your car is just rolling too much. I have always understood diff tightness as looser for more corning and tighter for push. I like to think about it like this. If I had locked posi traction, it would turn like crap. Have you ever heard a car a locked rear diff go around corners ( a real car)? The outside wheel will squeal as it is dragged around the corner. So if your pushing on power around a sweeping turn, then your diff "might" be too tight. It could be other things. Many of the locals on higher bite tracks run much stiffer shock packages than I see posted here. blue fronts and grey rears with 37.5/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I run grey fronts and white rear my self with 35/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I have people tell me how their B5M pushes all the time, but I dont get it. Mine has always turns on a dime and I can stay full wood on most sweepers in 17.5.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:52 AM   #7369
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the lunsford Ti studs barely remove any weight at all. Like maybe a couple grams. I think someone posted a while back that it was like 2 grams.
its close to a gram per ball stud, a little less. There are 14 studs.. the whole set removes at least 10 grams
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:56 AM   #7370
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hmm, I was told less. I passed on them due to the $50 price tag, lol. I am surprised it was a gram. I dont think the turnbuckles saved me 10 grams over the steel ones.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:59 AM   #7371
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you can adjust your diff setting based on the traction you have available. Loser diff is going to allow better steering, a tighter diff is going to slow down rotation and allow for better forward bite.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:09 AM   #7372
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you can adjust your diff setting based on the traction you have available. Loser diff is going to allow better steering, a tighter diff is going to slow down rotation and allow for better forward bite.
yes, this is why I tighten mine.
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:27 PM   #7373
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I know what your talking about. I had the same issue with the car rolling over too fast and lifting the inside wheel on higher bite tracks. I went up in oils and spring rates and it went away. Your car is just rolling too much. I have always understood diff tightness as looser for more corning and tighter for push. I like to think about it like this. If I had locked posi traction, it would turn like crap. Have you ever heard a car a locked rear diff go around corners ( a real car)? The outside wheel will squeal as it is dragged around the corner. So if your pushing on power around a sweeping turn, then your diff "might" be too tight. It could be other things. Many of the locals on higher bite tracks run much stiffer shock packages than I see posted here. blue fronts and grey rears with 37.5/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I run grey fronts and white rear my self with 35/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I have people tell me how their B5M pushes all the time, but I dont get it. Mine has always turns on a dime and I can stay full wood on most sweepers in 17.5.
that is incorrect
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:34 PM   #7374
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that is incorrect
how so?the outside wheel needs to spin faster because it has to travel a longer distance than the inside wheel. So what is wrong?
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:46 PM   #7375
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Inside wheel is the one that will loose traction first running a spool/looked rear end, trying to "keep up" with the faster rotation of the outer tire.

Run a SLOW tight circle with a locked rear end and you'll see the inside tire cog/jerk/stutter and "kick" dirt....loosing traction, the outside tire "runs the show"
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:52 PM   #7376
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Technically all the diff tightness does is control the resistance of the wheels to spin at different speeds which then has the effect of the looser the diff the more it will let the wheel with less resistance spin faster which is the outside wheel when turning. At least as I understand it.

I was was thinking mine was way too loose letting the inside wheel break loose and start spinning, but think Wildcat is right that it's probably rolling too far or maybe hitting a bump or something letting it come off the ground. Will have to try lowering the rear ride height or maybe playing with a sway bar. It does diff out a bit in another turn so will proably try tightening it a tad bit first.

I always hear it like this with ebuggy:
On low traction: Run the diff looser if you drive F1 style so the diff can do it's thing vs. locking and causing both wheels to break traction, if you like to drift corners, thicker rear diff will be more controllable during the slide.

On high traction: Run the diff tighter so you can push the turn harder without the rear end diff-whipping around, but if you want to drift on the high-traction use thicker oil so you can break the tires loose
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:57 PM   #7377
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Technically all the diff tightness does is control the resistance of the wheels to spin at different speeds which then has the effect of the looser the diff the more it will let the wheel with less resistance spin faster which the the outside wheel when turning. At least as I understand it.

I was was thinking mine was way too loose letting the inside wheel break loose and start spinning, but think Wildcat is right that it's probably rolling too far or maybe hitting a bump or something letting it come off the ground. Will have to try lowering the rear ride height or maybe playing with a sway bar. It does diff out a bit in another turn so will proably try tightening it a tad bit first.
Think of it like a gear diff. Looser diff = lower diff fluid. Tighter diff= heavier fluid.
the difference with a ball diff being there is a point where the diff will begin to slip and not work properly.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #7378
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I'll leave this here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI (how a differential works (1937))
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:04 PM   #7379
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Inside wheel is the one that will loose traction first running a spool/looked rear end, trying to "keep up" with the faster rotation of the outer tire.

Run a SLOW tight circle with a locked rear end and you'll see the inside tire cog/jerk/stutter and "kick" dirt....loosing traction, the outside tire "runs the show"
"A spool is a device that connects the two axles directly to the ring gear. There is no differentiation side to side, so a vehicle equipped with a spool will bark tires in turns and may become unmanageable in wet or snowy weather. Spools are usually reserved for competition vehicles not driven on the street"


I always thought the outside wheel was being drug around in the corners because it was slower than the inside wheel. slower meaning it has to travel a larger distance while the car turns. After a quick good search, others are saying it is the outside tire. because it cant catch up with the inside tire.

Regardless. tighter diffs make corning "worse" it would seem, unless your trying to slide the rear and punch out. I would also think in a straight line with a tight diff, that if one wheel gained or lost traction suddenly, that the car might pitch left or right. where more diff action would just transfer power between the right and left wheels quicker.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:21 PM   #7380
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I'll leave this here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI (how a differential works (1937))
lol, the people running on the cylinders at the end was great.
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