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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:49 AM   #7351
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My kit should be arriving in a few days thanks to all of your input. Thank you very much for that.

I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.

Thanks again!

jB
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Do not do that in this thread.
[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;13491123]
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
My kit should be arriving in a few days thanks to all of your input. Thank you very much for that.

I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.

Thanks again!

jB[/


Welcoming you to join and share your build ...
Jason, regardless of what this guy ^^^ might tell you, DON'T give a detailed build up in this thread. Create your own thread and if people want to follow along they can. Thank you.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:00 AM   #7352
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
MM took 1st and second. And both were B5M's. The RM car were much better until the traction came way up. Also, once the track started to rut, having the alum chassis down low helped keep the cars from bouncing all over. There were RM cars in the Amain and in the better drivers won. And they probably would have won with an RM car also.
What do you have spies all over the country reporting back to you? How would you know this?
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:01 AM   #7353
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What do you have spies all over the country reporting back to you? How would you know this?
I know some people from AZ that went to the race
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:04 AM   #7354
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Who makes the Xpert servos?
They are from the ESC company Viper.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:15 AM   #7355
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Xpert makes their own and you can get them from shop viper.

Some nice new stuff on the way too but gotta stay tight lipped!
seen the new Viper's
I like , come with plugs so you can attach short or longer servo leads easily.

Most likely my next servo...
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:30 AM   #7356
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I have both cars.


And that is your problem too...you give up on one to fall back on the other...rm's are not even better outdoors on non sugared tracks either. Stick with one, figure it out, listen to the right people, and don't run bone headed set ups either. Over thinking the set up on a B5M will only result in problems.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:39 AM   #7357
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Create your own thread and if people want to follow along they can. Thank you.
Thank you for the clarification.

jB
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:43 AM   #7358
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And that is your problem too...you give up on one to fall back on the other...rm's are not even better outdoors on non sugared tracks either. Stick with one, figure it out, listen to the right people, and don't run bone headed set ups either. Over thinking the set up on a B5M will only result in problems.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:45 AM   #7359
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lol, the setup on my MM was fine. And SRS has great traction. The last layout had a few spots that made the MM harder to drive on. It was not just me, I was talking to a few guys and they had the same issues in the same spots. Mainly areas where you need to get on and off the power hard. Like rhythm sections or low speed turns into big jumps. When ever I needed to get on the gas quickly, the rear would kick a little and thus sometimes put me on my roof, because I would twist off the jump. My diff is pretty tight, but I am thinking about maybe going tighter. Once, I get my MM car rebuilt and a new body painted up, I will probably run it again. Aside from my consistency issues with the MM, I loved the feel of it in the corners and the level jumping. I am trying to decide if i want the brass C holder or the alum. I have been using the plastic in the past. But I want more ease in tuning toe and squat. I will probably run alum on the D.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:45 AM   #7360
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Disappointing Jason..
Do what you like, will still be interested .
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:49 AM   #7361
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Disappointing Jason..
Do what you like, will still be interested .
I appreciate it WC. I will just create a new thread. I feel like if i was looking through this thread for specifics on the B5M i would also get annoyed with some dude making it all about his project.

I will link to it when i start it.

jB
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:51 AM   #7362
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban View Post
I appreciate it WC. I will just create a new thread. I feel like if i was looking through this thread for specifics on the B5M i would also get annoying with some dude making it all about his project.

I will link to it when i start it.

jB
Promise you all my support for your efforts.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #7363
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My diff is pretty tight, but I am thinking about maybe going tighter.
See? There you go again...the tighter a diff is, the less it functions properly. In 17.5 which I presume is what you race, the diff should ONLY be tight enough to not bark period. A properly working diff works right along side with the sipper...not too loose, and certainly not too tight. It will allow the car to jump, accelerate and corner the was it is supposed to!
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:32 AM   #7364
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See? There you go again...the tighter a diff is, the less it functions properly. In 17.5 which I presume is what you race, the diff should ONLY be tight enough to not bark period. A properly working diff works right along side with the sipper...not too loose, and certainly not too tight. It will allow the car to jump, accelerate and corner the was it is supposed to!
Hmm, that is the way I normally run my diffs for RM cars. Yeah, I guess everyone was saying the MM car needed tighter diffs, so I used that as a starting point. I need to rebuild the diff, so when I do I will set it like I normally would. I was told my car was not squaring up fast because the diff was too loose and that it was diffing out. When I tightened it, it seemed better to me. Much better forward drive.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:34 AM   #7365
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I have come to the same conclusion. Each of the ball studs in my MM had a flat spot and when I upgraded to Lunsford ball studs the binding was gone.
Anyone know what the total weight difference is when running the lunsfords?

I'm liking the way the brass knuckles (as I like to call them) feel on the C & D holders for getting more rear traction, but would like to bring the total weight of the car back down a bit to keep from blowing out a couple of corners
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